warner clutch removal gone bad...

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by captken, Feb 22, 2013.

  1. captken

    captken LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,707

    I have soaked it today and will try again tomorrow. Thanks for your information. I bought this junker for parts to use on my new project...my project seems too nice to use parts from her, so I'll probably let it sleep until it's needed.
     
  2. herler

    herler LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,144

    Let me get this straight...

    1. You PAID for a junker?
    2. Then you BROKE off the end of that engine's CRANK shaft?
    3. And now you're here asking US how deep?

    Son...
    I don't know where to begin but for starters I don't pay for junk.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2013
  3. captken

    captken LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,707

    Well, if the price is right, that junker can yeild a treasure trove of servicable parts. Besides, the price was right.
    What you or the others don't know, I purchased a 06' Lazer Z that was a thieft recovery, home owner owned, 800hrs. Price, I won't tell, but it was under $800.
    It had no engine, no pto clutch, no front pulley, no engine no muffler guards.
    The donor Z had a muffler that I wire wheeled then acid prepped and painted with outdoor grill paint, saved at least $130 or so and it looks new.
    Front pulley to drive hydros and 3 piece engine guards from Exmark, I was quoted $180 for that, which came off the Junker.
    Warner 5218-99 clutch $300 plus change from dealer. Clutch spacer from dealer $8-15??
    Now, the clutch on this mower, a Toro Z Master, will not fit my Exmark, but will fit my Hustler.
    Paid $150 dollars from the dealer for junker, yeilds: muffler, muffler guard, engine guards [3], front pulley and a pto clutch I can use on my Hustler Z.
    The hydro pumps and motors are probably good, so....my friend, since diapers, has been a small engine mechanic for 25yrs or so and works at an Exmark dealership in a town not far away, is willing to let me trade the junker, a Toro Z Master in exchange for a NEW Warner 5219-99.
    He is willing to let me keep the clutch, since he thinks I broke it, I still haven't tried to get it off, doing irrigation work, but will soon.

    Oh, I forgot, I put a Kolher ch-750, 30hp for $1950.
    That is the front castor of the junker below the new engine picture. I have it running, waiting on new clutch and spacer.
    kenny

    zpic2.jpg

    phone camera pictures 029.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2013
  4. Jeff in AL

    Jeff in AL LawnSite Senior Member
    from Alabama
    Posts: 718

    BigFish is 110% correct with what part you broke on the clutch and that it is NOT the crankshaft that is broken.
    Try what BigFish and piston slapper suggested to get the clutch off, but be warned that you will probably destroy it completely if it hasn't come off yet at this point. As mentioned, had there been any/enough anti-seize on the crankshaft, this would not have happened.
    Below are several pictures of a similar designed clutch I took apart to show the parts that make it up. NOTE the "double flat" shaped hub is the powder pressed part that you twisted off and broke... Hope these pictures help you get an idea of what your dealing with.

    P1010001.jpg

    P1010002.jpg

    P1010003.jpg

    P1010004.jpg

    P1010005.jpg

    P1010006.jpg
     
  5. Jeff in AL

    Jeff in AL LawnSite Senior Member
    from Alabama
    Posts: 718

    Here is a couple more pictures...

    P1010007.jpg

    P1010008.jpg
     
  6. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,923

    Good photos and info on da clutch setup! I'm sure it will help somebody.
     
  7. Kudzupatch

    Kudzupatch LawnSite Member
    Posts: 2

    I guess I am that somebody these photos are to help. Z-master dropped the bolt out of the clutch. What appears to have happened is it slide down the shaft till it could spin and broke the wires and and of course quite mowing.

    My first thought was just replace the bolt and mend the wires. But the clutch doesn't want to raise up and doesn't seem to want to come off by hand. Using a air wrench on the bolt s doesn't move it up the shaft at all.

    From what I reading the clutch should be slip fit on the shaft? I don't want break anything else so I am asking trying to figure out my next step.
     
  8. Kudzupatch

    Kudzupatch LawnSite Member
    Posts: 2

    I found my answer! I had to use a longer bolt because the replacement wouldn't engage the shaft. The one I was using bottomed out. Added some washers and it pulled up in place with the impact. Got it fixed thanks to those photos!
     

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