Weed control for acreages.

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by yardprospraying, May 14, 2006.

  1. yardprospraying

    yardprospraying LawnSite Member
    Posts: 147

    Just wanted some ideas on what you guys do, or use for big yards. We have quite a few yards that we do that are 1-6 acres with a pro-lawn shielded sprayer on a woods (grasshopper) ztr mower. The majority of the yards don't have water sprinklers, so we try to time pre-emergent apps. when rain is forcasted within 24-48 hrs. I also put down merrit 75 with some of them for grub control. I usually use pendulum 3.3 for pre-emergent because it works well for sandburs (stickers), but it supposedly degrades quickly with UV light. We are doing 2nd apps. now and not any rain forcasted for the week.

    Should we try another pre-emergent or just explain to them like we always do that if it doesn't get watered in then expect problems with stickers and grubs. We generally have success with this combo, but weather sometimes doesn't cooperate.
     
  2. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,342

    You might try adding a wetting agent to your spray tank. Plant Health Care makes a great yucca wetting agent that works really well on dry soil. The Yucca has also shown some disease resistance properties when applied to turf. Its not labled for disease control, just as a wetting agent.
     
  3. Killswitch

    Killswitch LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 438

    lol....wetting agent.

    Couple glugs of dish soap and theres your wetting agent. Plus you may get some surface insect control.

    Of course they didnt teach you that in that book you read did they.
     
  4. yardprospraying

    yardprospraying LawnSite Member
    Posts: 147

    I use a surfactant. My question was what do you do when you use a pre-emergent that must be watered in before the uv rays degrade it useless (pendemethalin).
    I usually don't worry on small yards just the big ones.

    As for dish soap, I don't use. We use low volume per acre, and need buffering agent, not suds.
     
  5. Killswitch

    Killswitch LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 438

    Thats why you just tap it with a couple glugs per hundred. No suds to speak of.
     
  6. hmartin

    hmartin LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 590

    http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/extension/presentations/2002/barnhill_turf_talk.pdf

    In the above presentation pendimethalin uv degredation is rated as very small.

    I have also read that if pendimethalin is not watered in within 24 hours 15% of its effectiveness is lost. The label on the lesco version says that it should be watered in within 7 days. For large acreage you are just taking a chance with mother nature.
     
  7. GreenUtah

    GreenUtah LawnSite Senior Member
    from SLC, UT
    Posts: 866

    the problem with dish soap is not only suds related, but the ph can also react to your tank mixes..fine through a hose sprayer for those in the Jerry Baker school, a poor idea for the pro that tank mixes.
    I've also seen field trials that suggest the water in time for pendimethlin is 30 days before significant breakdown, but I'm not sure if you put down one app of pre already "Another" "2nd round", or are asking if a different product can sit for a longer period. I also wonder if a granule would hang longer than a liquid drop, slowing degradation until water breaks it down. Since pendi has that nice yellow dye to it, you could measure the two against each other in a pair of glass jars set out in the sun and see which one fades out first. Of course, this has nothing to do with the effectiveness of the product, but might give some visual clues to how fast one breaks down vs. the other.
     
  8. Killswitch

    Killswitch LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 438

    For the Pro....lol

    I love you guys that run right down to the local seminar/sales pitch and buy all this junk they sell you.

    It's all good. If you think you need to spend all that money and have all those differnt products on hand thats fine.

    I think you guys make this a lot more difficult than it is.
     
  9. yardprospraying

    yardprospraying LawnSite Member
    Posts: 147

    We have already done 1 app. in early Mar. The problem is if you do not apply a 2nd app. come July-Aug. there will be stickers (sandburs). The only other pre-emerge. that is labeled for this is Surflan. I'm not sure if it's any better or not. I do not use any type of granular pre-emerge. I have heard barricade will not break down at all, not sure if thats true or not, but it doesn't matter if it doesn't control stickers (sandburs).

    As far as the Merritt, I guess the surfactant would help the grass absorb it, but I've always been told to water it in immediately after application.

    We never use any type of dishsoap for surfactant, anyway if you were to price the amount it would take to equal a good surfactant, you'd come out ahead buying the surfactant. The surfactant we use has buffereing agents in it as well to help with ph. And yes ph is and should be an issue to anyone applying low volume wc.
     
  10. GreenUtah

    GreenUtah LawnSite Senior Member
    from SLC, UT
    Posts: 866

    ok, so irrigation is definitely a problem for you, on both the preemergent and insect controls. higher rates when you do have the moisture should give you a longer term control, which does not help you right now for the rd 2 app, but might become a strategy for future seasons. If you think there will just not be any water to act as a carrier in the near future, what about using postemergent controls in a spot application? That can be a sound agronomic practice as well without the need to follow with water. Otherwise, you may just need to pray for rain, then bang everyone you can in the days leading up to it or even on the rain day itself.
     

Share This Page