What am I missing? Its not deep green

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by kirk1701, Apr 17, 2013.

  1. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    Thanks Riggle
    And the main front where I see it the most gets sun all day. Like you said, the side and the back where you see its still in the shade, looks great.

    So I'm overly concerned :drinkup:

    More rain coming in tonight, mowed Tuesday and will mow again Saturday.
     
  2. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    Just thought I'd update

    Been mowing at 3" which was when I'd see the more of a lighter color green like I said in the original post and looked like I was mowing to short.

    I mowed yesterday, 3.75" and it looks great, still don't have the deep green but the higher it gets the greener it becomes.
     
  3. turfbuilder

    turfbuilder LawnSite Senior Member
    from WI
    Posts: 539

    Hit it with some Milorganite.
     
  4. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    I agree with Milorganite as it is your best buy for the additional Iron(Fe),,, which should eventually get the colors to pop...
     
  5. larryinalabama

    larryinalabama LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 16,726

    Golf courses put a lot of iron when the have a PGA torument. Its expensive but it will turn grass dark green.

    Wont hep the green thing but it looks like you should be bagging or get some better mulching blades or double cut.
     
  6. For a green lawn you have to have photosynthesis. When you use N to push your lawn to grow, yes you do get photosynthesis at the top growth because blade sees the sun, but the lower blade doesn't....specially so when cutting grass higher than 3".

    Chelated Iron (Fe) is what enhances photosynthesis therefore will cause a deeper green grass blade because iron is easily available in the soil for roots to absorb.

    The only problem that I have when cutting grasses higher than 3" is you're just asking for problems to occur, depending on type of grass, humidity, and watering practice. I see most problems because grass is moist at crown which allows a healthy area for bugs and fungus to multiply.
     
  7. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    EXACTLY!!!!
    Which is why I'd like to keep the 3" cut, I do have a fungus problem and keeping it managed and under control. Someone else on here I've been talking with via PM for a long time now told me the same thing. I value his advice and been cutting at 3" in the spring till we start getting into the dry weather.

    @larryinalabama
    The clippings aren't normally a problem, the pics you see were taken after a cut when the grass was already higher then it should have been but I had no choice but to wait due to weather and rain.
     
  8. See, most guys don't know how to keep a grass healthy, hence the term MOW BLOW AND GO
    I never never understood why a maintenance guy would want to make his job harder already than what it is. Why do you cause growth without regard to whether it does anygood in the whole picture scheme
     
  9. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    I always cut low in the cool weather, and only raise the blade when it becomes too hot for the cool-season grasses to handle it... generally 2.5 in Spring/Fall and 3.5 in the Summer, but will let it get shaggy if the heat/drought is forcing dormancy...
     
  10. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    I agree
    Now I have 1.5" to take off on the next cut :laugh:

    Going back to the 3" so I might use the 48" riding mower, it mulches better than the push mower.

    Thanks again
     

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