What is next after fall renovation?

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by Frogballs, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. Frogballs

    Frogballs LawnSite Member
    Posts: 24

    So last fall I started over with a total renovation of my lawn. The machine used to till and seed left lines of grass when it came up. It grew for roughly 3 mowings before the cold set in. It looked great last year and without walking it so you can look down, it looks great still. I am in lower Connecticut and the day temps have started to reach 50+ and night is 40+/-. There are some bare spots and some little high spots from the machine unearthing potatoes.

    What is the right process to start off this year? The bare/thin areas, Pre Em, soil amendments and so on are all a concern. I am extremely eager to do whatever it takes and I have access to lawn maintenance machinery.

    The lawn was a combo of 50/50 Rye Blue, and straight Rye broadcast after the machine, all from Lesco.
     
  2. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,082

    In my opnion, bare spots are more important than Pre-M... Let the grass grow a little taller, like 3" for a healthier more vigoros start... After 2 or 3 mowings this spring put your N on then so as not to burn out the stored carbohydrates and promote, all top growth...
     
  3. Frogballs

    Frogballs LawnSite Member
    Posts: 24

    Thank you. So you think it is best to slice the thin areas and overseed and garden weasel the small spots in place of a spring Pre M? Just have the broadleaf sprayed by someone after it pops?
    I ran a JRCO today to get the grass standing up again. Was planning on liming and rolling Monday.
     
  4. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,082

    The problem with bare spots is that if you don't fix them, you live with them all summer long. Yes, you may have a problem with CG in the middle of summer, but there are ways to handle that, without having a dirty lawn...

    The decision ultimately lies with you... are you willing to risk the CG to cover the dirt, or is the dirt tolerable to avoid CG... Nowdays you can have the best of both worlds if you are willing to pay for grass friendly pre-m... Tupersan, I think is the brand name of it...
     
  5. Teach123

    Teach123 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 155

    Here is what I did a couple of springs ago when I did the same thing as you....renovated with a 50/50 Rye KBG in the Fall. I went ahead and garden weaseled a few bare areas and sowed some good seed. Although the temps were still pretty cool, at least the seed was there when the soil warmed. Then, I covered those spots and applied a granular form of pre-M. Worked like a charm. No crabgrass, and good germination of the seed (not just the Rye..the KBG too!). However, because it was spring as opposed to fall, I had to baby the crud out of the seeded areas. I jhad to have my retired father come over and water those spots during the day while at work. The wind in the spring can be stronger and you can't let those spots dry out. Good luck man!
     
  6. Frogballs

    Frogballs LawnSite Member
    Posts: 24

    Here are some pictures of the situation. The cultipacker lines are really what are showing. I am surprised at how they are still here even after I ran the spreader 3 laps after the machine and used the back of a rake to rid the lines. I really would hate to see this lawn go to the weeds as the timing is right on us. Garden weasel seems like a great idea in the areas I can manage, but the stripes from the machine and various thin spots have me worried.
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  7. bigslick7878

    bigslick7878 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 809

    Aerate it, light overseed and fertilize it. No need for any more seed it is pretty full as it is.

    What type of mower are you using that is leaving those clumps of cut grass all over the place when the grass hasn't even really started getting thick and full yet this early in the year? (if that is what it is I really can't tell from the pic)
     
  8. Frogballs

    Frogballs LawnSite Member
    Posts: 24

    That is matted down grass from the snowfall. I am guessing I left it a little too long for winter? The JRCO took car of most of it.
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  9. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,337

    I am thinking...you cannot risk having a crabgrass problem. If you have ever had crabgrass in the past--apply crabgrass control. Rely on water and high-quality fertilizer and the grass should fill-in just fine over the summer. Reseed any spots where soil is visible in late summer.

    Remember that ryegrass is aggressive as a seedling; it crowds out bluegrass in the first year or two. You may have 90 percent rye. And rye does not creep--no rhizomes. Best to seed no more than 20 percent rye when mixed with bluegrass.
     
  10. bigslick7878

    bigslick7878 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 809

    I don't see a lot of rye in there, loos like a lot of fescue.

    That said, i do see spots where if not filled in could be...with crabgrass.

    Aerate, overseed and fertilize and in a month you should be good to go. That 2nd closeup pics shows a bit of thin areas that you couldn't see in the other pics.

    You are very close to the a nice full lawn but not there yet. One more go around and you should be there and have nothing to worry about for a long time.
     

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