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What is the best way to get a nice lawn?

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by statman, Aug 14, 2002.

  1. statman

    statman LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 271

    I am a commercial mower (my motto is "I don't know, I just mow"). I wanted my own yard to look good, so I started experimenting with different fertilizers. About a month ago I put down 40 lbs of 12-12-12 and about 20 lbs of urea (46-0-0) and watered the living daylights out of it. (I have 15,000 sq ft of grass.)

    Now I have the nicest lawn in Millbury, but I have to mow it every other day.

    A guy asked me what I use on it, and when I told him, he said I was going to get shallow root growth and was asking for trouble.

    I'm not looking to horn in on someone else's turf (haha)... I've got enough to keep me busy with just mowing. Am I hurting my yard applying this mixture?
     
  2. NO

    But for future apps look into slow release ferts with micro nutrients.
     
  3. KirbysLawn

    KirbysLawn Millenium Member
    Posts: 3,486

    I'll disagree and say yes.

    You are promoting shallow root growth since all plant energy is now going toward top growth. Shallow roots mean sure trouble during any drought, now you have the ability to water, stop the water and see what happens. Also, applying high amounts of N during the summer also makes your lawn wide open for diseases.

    Get on a stable program, check Lecso or even Home Cheapo's Scotts program.
     
  4. Since it has been applied there isn't much you can do about it now, so to plan for the future look at slow release programs.
     
  5. tremor

    tremor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,476

    That would work out to about 4 lbs/1000 of total fert. You created what amounts 23-5-5. About the kind of analysis you'd find at a K-Mart or other lower grade house brand fert.

    For what would amount to .92 lbsN/1000 & about .2 lbs/K & the equivalent of .1lbs/P (after the exchange).

    If the 12-12-12 was also all chem (soluble), then the agronomic benefit was pretty negligable.

    I agree with both Ray & LGF. From here, I'd get a soil test & start using a slow release source of N at the ration indicated in the test results.

    Steve
     
  6. Kent Lawns

    Kent Lawns LawnSite Senior Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 870

    Covering pellets with plastic or sulpher doesn't benefit the plant as much as fertilizer manufacturers would have us all believe.

    Fert timing, amount and ratio (soil test) are more important.

    I happen to be a fan of "spoon-feeding" philosophy.
     
  7. get rich

    get rich LawnSite Member
    Posts: 195

    if i'm not mistaking sulfur or poly coating is more benificial to the turf than non-coated because it allows the pellets to slowly release and continually slowly feed the lawn as opposed to a quick rush of N. or other nutrients. sounds like common sense that a slow feeding is better. mom always said slow down and eat your food,right?:D
     
  8. 1grnlwn

    1grnlwn LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,261

    Hire someone to aerate it spring an fall for a couple of years and fert, it will be nice.

    Mark
     
  9. tremor

    tremor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,476

    100% Soluble nutrients are fine for all involved if the applicator can apply them at agronomically correct quantities between every 2-4 weeks. I supply several one ProTurf stadium this way.

    The other is sand based. They instead choose 100% Slow.
    Slow release is more economical in the long run because it reduces leaching, run-off, volatilization, & labor.

    For commercial applicators, the proper use of all soluble ferts, all the time, isn't possible.

    Steve
     
  10. MJStrain

    MJStrain LawnSite Member
    Posts: 156

    I use Scott's plan exclusively and have never regretted having the best looking lawn in the neighborhood....:)
     

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