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Whats going on with this yard?

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by gulfjoe, Sep 15, 2013.

  1. gulfjoe

    gulfjoe LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,626

    This is Zone 1. The program starts running at 0445.

    I aerated back in april. This was my second year in the house but aeration is a yearly thing in my maintenance program.

    I am going to perform a soil test this week or next. I am thinking its a little to late in the season to get it to turn around and green up for me.

    Do you think maintaining the Bermuda at to tall a height could cause this? I currently maintain it at 3", I know that is to tall but because of the poor grading from my builder it scalps it in areas at 2.5" with my 36" WB. I may just try maintaining it with my 21" Honda next year, but cutting with the big mower makes it so much easier especially after cutting other peoples grass all day.
  2. smallstripesnc

    smallstripesnc LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 714

    Spurge isn't fun but can be controlled as others have mentioned. As far as mowing height its not the best height for it but if you had a zero turn and knew the areas that scalp I would say use the deck lift to avoid scalping. I manage a few properties that have bermuda and the builder didn't grade the land very well and using a 36in walk behind mower at 2.5 inches will scalp it all over the place but going up to 3 inches fixes the problem and growth seems fine.
  3. jds912

    jds912 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 84

    What is the make up of your fertilizer. Seems to be a little heavy. When do you apply your first fertilizer app., in may? It is going to be hard for you to get 4-6 pounds of nitrogen per growing season where you live. If the fertilizer contains urea and coated urea it can carry over for two months. I would think three apps of a pound of n per thousand would cover you for the year. Pull a soil sample, look at the roots of your grass. Potassium is another nutrient needed. Cut back on how much fertilizer you are using and a couple apps. of a 1 to 1 ratio fert. I think your grass is burned by fertilizer. Seems a lot of fert. has been put down in a short amount of time. Just my 2 cents, hope you figure it out.
  4. Will P.C.

    Will P.C. LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 965

    My bermuda lawn has really slowed down as of 9/16. Mowing every 10+ days with fert and irrigation compared to every 4. Some parts have thinned out and started going dormant.

    In the spring throw a ton of sand down to start leveling your yard. Super irritating seeing the mower scalp every few feet.
  5. Hissing Cobra

    Hissing Cobra LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 700

    You've never answered any of my questions on watering. Without the knowledge of watering we're all just guessing. Guessing doesn't get to the root of the problem.
  6. gulfjoe

    gulfjoe LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,626

    Here is the fert I am using. http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/d0afab78#/d0afab78/98 I May have done my first app mid April early May. I will Pull some roots this afternoon and take some pictures of them.

    System was running 15 minutes per zone ( I dont know the exact amount of water that is going down) 4 days a week. I bumped up the particular area to 25 minutes. I kind of agree with the other poster and think there may have been to much N applied the last time I fertilized. I am going to pull a soil sample from the affected area and then the entire lawn and get them sent off sometime this week. I am planning on putting my Pre M out sometime in the next week or 2 a so I would like to have some answers before doing that. If you need any other info let me know.

    Thanks for all your help so far
  7. gulfjoe

    gulfjoe LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,626

    Started in june and hated every second of it. I am going to have to find a better way this year because I have ALOT more SQFT to do.

  8. Hissing Cobra

    Hissing Cobra LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 700

    Fifteen minutes per zone? I don't believe that will be enough. Cut into the soil on a day that you're not watering to see how much moisture is in the soil. If you see dust, you've got your answer. Nothing grows in the desert! Also, put a few cereal bowls around the lawn and run the system for 15 minutes. Check to see how much water is in the bowls. My guess will be that you'll have about a 1/4" inside each bowl - not nearly enough to make it to the roots where the plants take the water in. If you're watering on a hot summer day where the evaporation rate is extremely high, you're basically dampening the top of the soil and that's it.

    As for the fertilizer, if you've been applying it at the same spreader setting all season long without burning, you may be alright. When temperatures are cooler you can apply at a "heavier" rate with less chance of burning but when temperatures rise you cannot do that or burning will result.
  9. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,206

    Cobra is on the right track. Possibly you irrigation solenoid in that zone has failed--and no water at all is going down.
    Are you on a tight budget? Do the three cent water test. Take a penny and try to shove it into the soil deep, if you cannot pull it out...moisture is adequate. Place a coffee mug in the irrigated zone. Stack remaining two pennies on top of each other in the mug. Next morning, see if the water covers the pennies. It should.
  10. JBNC

    JBNC LawnSite Member
    Posts: 200

    Is the irrigation head in the middle of the brown area? Maybe the head is clogged or not adjusted right? Maybe this area isn't getting the same amount of water as the rest of the lawn?

    I agree that 15 min per zone is not enough for the past month or so, you want to water deep.

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