When do I start putting out chemicals on bermuda sod?

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by Watwood, Feb 28, 2007.

  1. Watwood

    Watwood LawnSite Member
    Posts: 31

    It's almost March, and I was wondering when (and what) I should put out on my lawn in the near future. It is bermuda sod, in northern Alabama. I was thinking of hiring a company to manage the grass, though I would still cut it. If I go this route should I call soon?

    This winter a weed grew that is long, thin, and dark green. Another weed grew that was green and looked like it had a purple "flower", whatever it was it was purple...

    Lastly, when I bought the house last summer there was a severe crabgrass / dallasgrass problem. It has improved some, but you can still see spots where it will come up again. Any tips on helping rid this before summer comes.
     
  2. gamartin88

    gamartin88 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 17

    Bump for the same question. I think I have the same weed as described above. What's the recommended solution for it?

    Also, I scalped my bermuda in the fall bu it's still grown some, should I scalp it again now that the weather is warming up, and if so, should I wait till I do whatever I need to this weed?

    Here's a picture of the weed that's growing, maybe it will help a pro identify it for us. Thank you.

    Febuary 033.jpg

    Febuary 035.jpg
     
  3. Eakern & Dog

    Eakern & Dog LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 431

    Here is my two cents.

    Febuary%20033.jpg
     
  4. hmartin

    hmartin LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 590

    Now is the time to do something about those weeds. You need to make the descision if you are willing spend time performing about 5 applications a year. Do you want to learn about and deal with herbicides? Do you have time? Is this something you might enjoy?

    If you want to do the work, you will find lots of good help on Lawnsite.
     
  5. hmartin

    hmartin LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 590

    Except for the weed that was pointed out earlier as poa, all the other weeds in this picture can be treated with one of the many broadleaf weed herbicides. Names usually have a reference to the number three. Examples are 3-way, Strike 3, Tri-mec, and so on. The most important thing is to read the label. If you don't understand the label, seek help. The label is what you should always go by. Don't use the "if a little is good, a lot more is better method"

    Opinions on cutting bermuda very short vary, I cut mine bermuda very short right before the grass starts to green-up

    Go online and search for a Homeowner's Guide to Lawns. Many states publish their own version.
     
  6. hmartin

    hmartin LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 590

    To both homeowners, you need to get a pre-emerge herbicide for summer weeds applied ASAP. What stores are you doing business with?
     
  7. Watwood

    Watwood LawnSite Member
    Posts: 31

    I'll head down to Lesco tomorrow. I put out a Pre-M for the winter back, I dunno Octoberish. This is my last semester in college right now, so I have a little time to spend on the yard, but not much. This summer will be a different story. I should have plenty of time, and yes I would always rather learn than pay someone to do the work.

    That poa looks like the long stringy weed I have in my yard, and the other one is the purple "flower" one...

    Is there anything you can do for the poa?
     
  8. hmartin

    hmartin LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 590

    Get an application of Pre-M or Barricade applied ASAP.

    The purple flower one is henbit, a broadleaf winter annual. The poa will die as soon as it gets hot, so you may want to just wait it out this spring. Most of the herbicides labeled for poa are expensive and hard to accurately mix in very small quantities.

    Make sure you are applying the Pre-M at the correct rate. The Pre-m in October should have prevented the poa. Do you have a lot of it? Is it in spots that you might have missed when spreading the Pre-M?


    Go ahead and get some MSMA for summer. You are going to find that MSMA can cure a lot of problems in a weedy bermuda lawn. It is going to take repeated spot spraying of MSMA to rid you of the dallisgrass.
     
  9. Watwood

    Watwood LawnSite Member
    Posts: 31

    Hehe, apparently the October Pre-M worked because what I thought was Poa was actually Fescue... Go figure, I don't have the accurate lawn eye yet, but I will pull most of those up by hand when the ground is wet so hopefully they won't come back. When they built two of my neighbors houses the gave them fescue lawns and gave me bermuda sod, so some of the seed mades it's way over to my lawn. I got the 5-2-25 Pre-M for this season as well as the Three-Way stuff from Lesco for the broad leaf weeds. I'll put it out probably Tuesday morning so should be good to go from there.

    Is there anything special I should do to start off the growing season? Dethatch (if I even have any)? Aireate (spelling?), Scalp the yard?
    And when should this be done?

    Lastly, what is the MSMA for? I have some "Drive75 DF Herbicide" from Lesco for the crab/dallasgrass. It is supposed to kill it without hurting the bermuda.
     
  10. hmartin

    hmartin LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 590

    A week or two before it is warm enough for your bermuda to really grow (around April 1) mow lyour lawn as close as you can without getting into the dirt. Bag this first cut if you can.

    Areating and Dethatching is done during the growing season for bermuda.

    Drive 75 is good for crabgrass, but dallisgrass will laugh at it. You need the MSMA if you have dallisgrass. MSMA stands for a long chemical name, just google it. MSMA will kill or severly inhibit the growth of almost every weed that is going to give you a problem. MSMA will turn your grass slightly yellow if you apply it to heavy, but the bermuda will green up in 7 to 10 days. If you apply the right amount of MSMA and fertilize, your will lawn will be green and weed free.
     

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