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When to water my lawn in sandy soil?

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by turbosl2, Jul 8, 2012.

  1. turbosl2

    turbosl2 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 56

    I guess. I just set it to start at 6pm and it will end about 5.5hrs later. Most zones are going 20-30mins, this includes all zones.
    So it will water all zones for (or all but 2) every day at 6pm.
    Then it will water the front onces again at 3am on even days and then the back will be on odd days.
  2. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    At some point you should think about ammending the soil or creating stonger deep roots and increasing the water holding capacity...

    Do you bag the clippings or mulch mow? Do you cut it short or do you let it shade its roots?
  3. maynardGkeynes

    maynardGkeynes LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 409

    Watering that late in the day is going to invite brown patch, dollar spot, and other fungus growth. Starting at 5AM would be better. I also question watering every day. I don't know the details of your property, but there are few scenarios where full daily watering is beneficial, and the downsides are considerable. With sandy soil you have a big margin of error, but there is no reason that I can see to use irrigation practices known to have potentially deleterious effects in terms of disease, soil leaching, runoff, and excessively, shallow root development.
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2012
  4. Grasssales2001

    Grasssales2001 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 111

    You are not applying enough water per irrigation event to do your grass much good. That is why your grass always looks dry. You said it applied 1/8 - 1/4" in 45 minutes,yet each zone only runs for 30 minutes?
  5. 32vld

    32vld LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,984

    Putting water down in the evening will catch up to you by your lawn getting a disease sooner or later.

    On LI I normally water 90 minutes once a week. Lawn shows needs water at 4/5 days when no rain and high temperatures. So I may move up watering a day. Shallow watering keeps the lawn from growing it's roots deeper.

    Edit to add, I use the tuna can math forumla.
  6. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    This is the proper way to setup a catch can audit (see pic). If you aren't at least doing it this way you are wasting your time.

    And in others you might get 1/2" or 1/16". You need a LOT more than one can in order to determine your PR, and more importantly your DU.

    Last edited: Jul 10, 2012
  7. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    If you are waiting until the plants are showing signs of water deficit, then you have waited too long.

    No it is not a constant temperature, not even close. FYI, CA has nearly every climate zone on the map.

    Anyone can water the piss out of a landscape and keep it looking decent .... AKA the lawnboy/homeowner schedule.
  8. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    Seriously dude? I would have expected better from you than this completely unprofessional and poor advice.
  9. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    The general factoid being used right now is over 50% of the Potable Water is used on outdoor landscapes and 50% of that is wasted. If we as an industry do not police ourselves then we very well could see a move to remove turf grass or reduce it's use drastically.

    Plants will use pretty much all the water you put on them unless your drown them. Kiril and I both come from States with water management plans. Texas is no where as strict as Cali but we are headed that way.

    There is a movement to take away Turf Grass and wasteful use of water is going to make that happen. It is not that we want to be retentive about it but there is a lot that goes into effective irrigation systems.
  10. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    Good. Even when properly irrigated it is still a massive waste of potable water. Like you said, sooner or later the government will just take your turf away by either restricting or removing your ability to irrigate your landscape. I tell clients all the time, if you don't use it (the turf), lose it. Some take my advise, some don't. I always strive to move landscapes I manage towards low-no inputs, and that means all inputs including labor.

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