which chainsaw, weedwhacker, leaf blower to get?

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by josh1981, Nov 6, 2006.

  1. josh1981

    josh1981 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 427

    Looking to get a stihl chainsaw, weedwhacker, leaf blower.

    Looking at the stihl ms290 farm boss, ms310, 16-18 inch chain, 56-60 cc. What is 56 and 60 CC converted to HP? and which saw, chain length would be better for taking down medium to large trees and cutting them up? and should I get the quick chain ajuster?

    Looking at fs80 brushcutter (attatch metal blade to cut down small stumps, brush and trim around house, trees, along driveway- would this be good for doing this? And how much is 25.4 cc in HP?

    For the blower looking at BG65D and BG85D with gutter attatchment and vaccum attatchment. BG85D has cruise control for constant air sped, do I really need this? Will use for blowing off drivewway , sucking up leaves, blowing out gutters... Which model should I get?
     
  2. LarryF

    LarryF LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,171

    CC is a measure of volume (cubic centimeters), so you can't convert it to horsepower (rate of doing work, e.g., 550 ft-lbs/sec). I've had both Stihl and Husqvarma chain saws, and I honestly didn't seem much difference between them. You should be careful about buying too much saw if you haven't had one before. 16-to-18 inch blade would be optimum for a homeowner. You will rarely need much bigger unless you have some 200-year-old forests you want to thin out. And if that's the case, you had better know what you are doing before you attempt to drop any tree like that. Unlike most other engine-driven tools, HP isn't really so important for a chain saw, which may be the reason HP isn't mentioned so much for chain saws. If it spins and the teeth are razor sharp, it will cut so fast the chips will fly. And if the teeth aren't razor sharp, you shouldn't saw with it. I don't know what a "quick chain adjuster" is. But every chain saw I've ever seen has what I think is a pretty fast means of adjusting the chain tension. When you notice the chain starting to sag more than what looks safe, flip off the switch, loosen the two nuts holding the chain bar,with a common screwdriver tighten the chain with the screw head that is provided, and then retighted the nuts that secures the bar. Shouldn't take more than a minute or two, so I don't know why a "quick chain adjuster" is necessary.

    In regard to a choice of blower, I like the Redmax products, but these LawnSite pages are filled with advice on blowers.

    I don't see the need for getting a brushcutter. I have one, and used it a few hours when I first bought it, but it's been hanging in my garage for years now. Doesn't matter which brand, I just don't like them. I consider it to be a worhtless machine, and a dangerous one at that. I wish someone had told me before I bought mine what I'm telling you.
     
  3. jkingrph

    jkingrph LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 807

    I have used Stihl for about 20 years after learning the hard way about cheap homelite chain saw. I have an older Stihl 046 with 16" bar and it has plenty of power and weighs enough to give me a quick work out. Also have Stihl hedge trimmer, handlebar type weedeater and a split shaft unit with prune saw, weedeater head, extended hedgetrimmer and edger attachment which I really like, and an older hand held blower . Go with what you like and be sure you have an established dealer for support.
     
  4. nmurph

    nmurph LawnSite Senior Member
    from ga
    Posts: 668

    of course HP matters!!!!! however, i do agree that with chainsaws, a dull chain on a higher hp saw is not as effective as a lower hp saw with a sharp chain. both husqvarna and stihl publish their hp ratings for their saws and trimmers at their website. if you are only going to be cutting smaller, 4-6in trees, a smaller saw such as the 250 is more than enough. if you are going to be felling many larger trees, i would suggest a 310. it has very good power. it is not a true commercial saw, but it will handle anything you are likely to throw at it. for cutting thumb size trees, try a brushcutter head that uses saw chain. it is much less prone to kicking and jumping than a saw blade.
    there are three things to think about when buying a saw: how much saw do i need, how much am i willing to pay for, and how much am i willing to tote around. one thing to remember is it is one thing to grab saw in the showroom and say "that's not too heavy to carry." it is something else when you have to start dragging it through the woods as you trip, stumble and sweat.
    i am very partial to stihl. i have a 310 saw, a 85 string trimmer and a very old 020 arborist saw with a hedge trimmer head. all work exceptionally well. some people complain that stihls are hard to start. mine all are easy to crank providiing you follow the directions. i am also a firm believer in using a gas stabilizer in my 2 stroke mix.
    my brother has a 26 saw that has seen way too much duty in the woods of south georgia clearing woods for pinestraw production. it never misses a lick. he also has a husqvarna 350. it is an ok saw, but it wil be replaced with a stihl. neither of us like the balance of the saw. it may just be a personal thing.
     
  5. josh1981

    josh1981 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 427

    thanks for the help. Have decided to get the ms290 chainsaw w/ 16 inch chain, fs46 trimmer (NO blade attatchment), and bg65D blower with vaccum kit and maybe guter kit.

    Will post pics up later.
     
  6. LarryF

    LarryF LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,171

    Those are good choices, and I'm sure you'll be pleased with them. Did you ever find out what a "quick chain adjuster" is?

    Nmurph and I weren't really in disagreement very much, by the way. I agree with his premise that heavy weight for a chain saw can be a liability. Not only when toting it around, but there may be time when you will have to climb with it.

    I looked at the Stihl web site, and I see that HP figures are, in fact, now provided. I'm on my fourth saw now, and the current one, a Husky, is about 6 years old. I went through my manual after seeing the HP figures for the Stihls, but it isn't mentioned for my machine and isn't shown on outside of the case either. Just a model number that relates to displacement in CC. I never knew the HP ratings of any of my previous saws and it never seemed important. But the Husky web site does show HP for each chain saw it now offers. So I have to admit that something is different, even though chain saws had been sold for years without the manufacturers providing that information. But of course the Internet wasn't always around, so maybe it just wasn't easy to find that information.
     
  7. josh1981

    josh1981 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 427

    The quick chain ajuster is basicaly an ajuster you use to tighten the chain with no screwdriver or wrench. I have decided to not get it, dont really need it. I have done it the other way before. Good thoughts on the weight issue but I wont be climbing treees with it. That would scare me to death! :laugh: I hear you on the internet thing, Im still learning about computers everyday. I studied them in college.

    Ok off to get the leaf blower and weedwhacker now. WIll post pics up later. Will post pics of the chainsaw in a few weeks.
     
  8. josh1981

    josh1981 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 427

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