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Who's Got Crab Grass Where There Was Grass

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by CLARKE, Aug 13, 2001.

  1. George777

    George777 LawnSite Senior Member
    from Alabama
    Posts: 305

    If you do a split application of pre-M you will get a extended residual effect
    Example you need a total of 10 lb
    put 5 lb down in Feb and than the other 5lb down in Apr. This is what I believe to be the best.

    If you run any equipment over the lawn right after applying pre-M you then wasted your money. (The barrier will be broken) I think you need to wait at least 10 tens.
  2. EJK2352

    EJK2352 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,150

    Super Trimec to kill crabgrass??? I dont think so, Lawnguy dont you mean Trimec Plus???:) ED
  3. You people are clueless.

    How do you expect to be lawn care pros when you can't even identify a weed?

    Go back to cutting lawns and leave the pesticide applications to actual licensed professionals.
  4. EJK2352

    EJK2352 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,150

    Who are you calling clueless???? I sure hope it isn't me!! I am licensed and I can I.D. weeds, insects, disease ,etc...etc...:angry: ED
  5. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,969

    I agree with Stone, a collection of personal likes and dislikes is useless, even confusing, to the original question. Much of what is stated above is only conditionally correct. Better to go to a professional discussion, like http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/pubs/ay10.htm , to get real answers. Only condition on this document is that later germinating crabgrass can be treated after July 15 - should be treated by 3-tiller stage for best control.

    The key to control of crabgrass breakthrough is being able to recognize the lighter color of the crabgrass blades in the lawn just after germination - since you are there every week to mow, look at your lawn while you are there. Also a history of the breakthrough areas on each site will help to plan split applications or postemergent rescues.
  6. KirbysLawn

    KirbysLawn Millenium Member
    Posts: 3,486

    I'm very curious as to how you came to this conclusion? I did'nt see where he gave a description of the grass, they look so different it would be hard to mistake.

    Poa Annua is a winter grass that needs cool soil to germinate and he described a dry "fried" lawn, what Poa Annua we have here died out long ago and will not return until the ground gets much cooler.

    Let's clear this up:

    Photo below is Poa Annua:


    This is crabgrass:


    Which is it Clarke?
  7. Because I am the amazing Kreskin of lawn care.

    And the climate of Northern IL is much like NE PA.

    Attachment is poa taken today.

  8. KirbysLawn

    KirbysLawn Millenium Member
    Posts: 3,486

    Kreskin, I don't want to upset you or anything but that's not Poa Annua (aka Annual Blue Grass), that's crabgrass!

    It would be very advisable to be familuar with weed ID first before flaming others for not knowing how to ID weeds. In this case you are wrong, and obviously do not know what crabgrass looks like. FYI, you can easily control that weed in your photo with MSMA or Drive, try it, Poa Annua cannot be controlled by these chemicals. Try it and get rid of it.

    Here is a link from the same website you provided, it tells you how to take care of it, read up. http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/pubs/ay10.htm

  9. Ok you got me it has a crabgrass seed head.

    But the point is how do we know if the weed in question is actually crabgrass?

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