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Winterizing Question

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by coxlandscaping, Nov 23, 2007.

  1. coxlandscaping

    coxlandscaping LawnSite Member
    Posts: 104

    I need to ask you some advice we received a call from a local department store they were in a panic because the company they hired to do there lawn maintenance does not do anything with irrigation they want to hire us to winterize there system I went by there yesterday to take a look out side at what we might me dealing with there is no place to blow out the system there backflow is a Zurn Wilkins 975XL RP My question is can I just turn the water off and run each zone to possible drain out as much water as I can or is it possible to blow out thru the RP with out damage about all of our installs we try to give a way of blowing the system out there backflow is protected with a insulated box or hotbox thanks for any help
  2. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,694

    try using the downstream testcock for your air hookup
  3. DanaMac

    DanaMac LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,156

    Probably over 60% of the systems we winterize are through the testcocks on the backflow preventers. Because many companies do not install a blow out point. I have honestly never SEEN any damage that we have caused in 15 years. Never a melted bonnet/poppet, or check valve, or diaphragm or gasket or anything. Should you blow out from a port past the backflow? Yes. Can you blowout through the backflow? Yes. We've fought about this many times on this site.
  4. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,694

    Downstream = sure thing
    Upstream = your mileage may vary (we don't see your compressor) due to hot air
  5. humble1

    humble1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from MA
    Posts: 2,499

    I dont know about the test **** getting enough volume to take the water out of the low spots. Usually we put a boiler drain between the shut off and b-flow to blow thru the b-flow. If you are worried you could also disconect the pipe below grade hook up a boiler drain to the pipe by adp- you could guarantee the blow out after the b-flow and charge more, or you could have a service plumber cut in a boiler drain after shut off so there is no worry. Up here it gets into the single digits so we need to get all the water out.
  6. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,694

    "volume to take water out of the low spots" ?? - you done any research on this? Got some numbers? Pretty much anything under an acre can easily be done through a testcock. Only problem I ever ran into, using a truckmount dinky, was an old Rainbird (Watts-made) PVB's poppet dropping before a zone was finished blowing out, and having to ratchet the air pressure up to 100 psi before I could get it to reseal.

    I think there may be a popular misconception that lots of water is being left behind during blowouts with less-than-optimal air supplies, but I would doubt that. So far, using repeat zone openings on some systems I do with a small truckmount, no 'hidden' water is ever showing up. (this is the power of air-water surface tension at work, as the moving air moves the water it touches)
  7. BrandonV

    BrandonV LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,224

    how old is the system? maybe it hasn't been in the past in which case you might go w/ the drain and shutoff route. but I'm not familiar w/ tn practices
  8. Mjtrole

    Mjtrole LawnSite Member
    Posts: 226

    You will get all of the water out of the low spots throught the test valves, especially if you are using a 185 there is so much backpressure built up. If you need to throw on a saddle just for winterizing.
  9. BSME

    BSME LawnSite Senior Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 829

    how do u poke a hole when u use those saddles?

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