York Rake to Rake in Seed?

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by BRL, Dec 17, 2001.

  1. BRL

    BRL LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,211

    I've never seeded areas larger then I could hand rake in (usually 8 - 10K max). I have a friend who is just about done building his house and there is approximately 1 acre of top soil that needs to be seeded. The excavator should have the top soil spread with a dozer by this week. My friend doesn't want to hydro-seed. My plan was to york rake the area & prep it for hopefully another hydro-seeder contractor to come behind me. If I spread the seed over the area, can I use the tractor with the york rake to rake it in? I'm thinking that will bury it too deep or not leave it evenly spread. Any other suggestions or ideas? We're just trying to get some annual rye going before winter sets in & so he can get the CO. Thanks.
     
  2. SCL

    SCL LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 543

    Two thoughts, 1, you can broad cast seed and then run a drag over the top, like a piece of chainlink. Cheap, effective, just not real consistent. 2, rent a Brillion seed drill where you can meter your seed and plant at its optimum depth.
     
  3. steveair

    steveair LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,073

    Hello,

    first, I don't think it matters what you do because the grass seed will not germinate this late in the season......I know your in southern jersey, and I'm in north, but there is not that much of a climate change. No way anything is going to germinate. It's december!

    As for raking the seed in, why? If anything, I would use a roller to press the seed into the ground. By dragging a york rake across a newly seeded area, you are bound to drag all of the seed from certain spots and have a lot of bare areas.

    If he needs the CO, I believe you can just seed and mulch using either straw or Hydro. This will depend on the town's decisions. you may even need to sod in some circumstances.

    Since it is a friend, suggest this. Put a very small amount of seed down, then straw, then wait til spring. In early spring, you can then come back and actually have something grow.

    steve
     
  4. mdb landscaping

    mdb landscaping LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,205

    for big areas, hyrdorseeding works the best, but i dont have a hydroseeder. i usually use a broadcast spreader to spread the seed, and then use a roller and roll in the seed. then throw some straw on it.
     
  5. SCAPEASAURUSREX

    SCAPEASAURUSREX LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 835

    I keep hearing everybody talking about straw.. What about Penn Mulch.. I started using it this year and have had much better results than straw.. It seems to start faster and grow in fuller, without having to rake up anything and nothing blowing around.. Dont' know if that would be practical for this time of year cause I dont think it will insulate as well as straw ?? However the mulch is GREEN so it will probaly look alot better over the winter ? But dont think anything you do will germinate seed at this point... May have to sod... Most places can still get it if you have a minimum order of usually 2 or 3 pallets ?
     
  6. Atlantic Lawn

    Atlantic Lawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Male, from Outer Banks NC
    Posts: 940

    I agree it's pretty late for rye in NJ.We are still gettin germination in NC on the coast.I'm curious as to what an acre's worth of topsoil went for in NJ ?
     
  7. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,969

    Seed with rye now, about 3#/K. If weather holds out and it takes, at least you have started some soil stabilization. Hit it again with 3-6# rye in the spring, depending on success of Dec seeding. Roundup the rye in late July, and slit-seed bluegrass if you want a better turfgrass.

    Rye will germinate quickly, if it gets enough of these unusual temps (assume you are warmer there than here in IN); wouldn't gamble on bluegrasses now. And spring bluegrass seedings here are usually hammered by summer heat, and will require significant touchup in the fall.

    Might even have a better chance of germination if you use wheat now, and you will get much better soil stabilization from that than any turfgrass. Not sure what rate to use, your extension office could help. Could then add rye in spring as above. Wheat, as an annual, will die out in next summer's heat, and since it would be mowed, would not be able to reseed itself.

    If you want to mulch for stabilization, straw is the hardest to apply but the best stabilizer. Tested PennMulch 3 years ago on a new seeding, 1/2 straw and 1/2 PennMulch; heavy rainfall washed all PennMulch and seed away, but straw areas were fine, even where water 2" deep was rushing over it (surprised me, LOL).
     
  8. steveair

    steveair LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,073

    Hello,

    Just want to ask why you are going to even bother york raking........to me, york rakes are a thing of the past.....power rakes are the way to go.......if you have a tractor with 35 hp, you can probably rent one, if not I know a lot of guys who you can sub-out for a half of day to bang it out for you.

    as for penn-mulch.......for the record, I am a psu alumni, so of course I will not contest to the products downfalls...........I will, however, say, off the record, that I don't feel it is suitable for large, new lawn installation........cost is much greater than straw and it tendencies to wash away are great.

    Penn mulch is great for spot applications, especially near roads where straw tends to blow away instantly.

    steve
     

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