Z Spray Part Number

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Turfdoctor1, Feb 9, 2013.

  1. Turfdoctor1

    Turfdoctor1 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 705

    We have been having a charging issue with an older Z spray. We replaced the alternater and the charging regulator. The regulator was one that we purchased locally to get it operational quicker last fall. Now it is having the same issue.

    We ordered the regulator from LT Rich on Thursday, but I was thinking about seeing if I could find the part local again so I could be operational on Monday.

    I have searched my manual from head to toe, and I cannot find that part number. Obviously, LT Rich is not open now or tomorrow.

    Does anyone have access to a parts manual that list all of that? If so, would you care to share the part number for that regulator. This is a Z spray Jr. It's 5 years old.

    Thanks
     
  2. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,329

    When did you replace the alternator(stator) last? I just replaced my stator. From what I understand 99 times out of a 100 it is the stator, althoug the regulator can go bad.

    If you need to parts locally I would think most B & S dealers would have the part. On the regulator there are 2, one with a 2 prong connector and the other has 3 prongs. That's what the Z guy told me.
     
  3. Turfdoctor1

    Turfdoctor1 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 705

    I replaced them both in November.

    LT Rich assures us that it is the regulator and not the stator. The voltage output on the stator is above 26, which they say means that it is working properly.

    I think the problem is that the regulator was the wrong voltage. They are either 16 or 20 volt. And, I'm guessing we got the wrong one. In addition, the wire was too short, so I had to splice it just to get it hooked to the solenoid.

    I'm about 95% positive it's the regulator (which is good, because it is a much easier fix)!

    The confusing thing is that it worked fine for several weeks following the repairs last fall. Not sure how something went wrong over the winter.
     
  4. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,960

    Same situation as one in local shop.......load is just tooo great for the engine power output. Stator kept blowing. I assume the regulator is the same as on mowers so it should be 12 volts dc output. That is what my pump on Walker uses. I believe the engine was 19hp kaw....so just get regulator for that at any local engine dealer. I was just about to buy a sprayer for our zplugger and wondered how I would work around that situation. Maybe haul a couple fully charged car batteries along.
     
  5. Cadzilla

    Cadzilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 899

    You should have 14.5 - 15 volts max DC coming "out" of the regulator. 26 volts AC going in and or from the stator/charger. Theres nothing Zmax specific about anything on the engine and parts can be had anywhere but not on a saturday night....lol

    I just swapped a stator and a flywheel out on a Kawasaki FH430V old style Z motor and it's not putting out more than about 3 volts AC.

    Everything else runs fine. I gave up and run a very high AH deep cycle battery and charge it once a week which is a good alternative for about 100 - 150 bucks out the door done deal and you don't even have to get your hands dirty.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2013
  6. kbrashears

    kbrashears LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 758

    Ha. I did the same thing. I gave up, too. I figure another 500 hours on this and I'll just replace the motor and keep on trucking.
     
  7. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,329

    I forgot the Z's used kawi's before they went to B&S. Still, parts should be available locally.

    When I was testing to figure out if it was my stator or regualtor I would test the stator and initially it would test ok with an output of 25+ volts which made me replace the regulator 1st. But when that did not work I went back and tested the stator again and what I found out was it would put out good voltage at 1st but then it would quit after a while. Ended up replacing the stator and all is good now. Just my experience. I hope it is the regulator for your sake since it is much easier to replace.
     
  8. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,960

    Can you get 6 hours off the deep cycle battery? Is it wired in the charging loop or do you just run the pump direct off of it? I figured that would be one alternative but forgot about deep cycle batteries. Thanks.
     
  9. Cadzilla

    Cadzilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 899

    6 hours of full on spraying? I don't have numbers for you but heres what I do know.

    A standard lawn and garden battery has about 15 Amp Hours of battery life/storage of usable power. This is what drives the pump and turns the motor over when starting. The DC output from the regulated stator or alternator voltage is turned into Amp Hours at least in the batteries mind and this is what you have in the bank.

    Now this is being charged regularly with 14-15 volts DC coming out of the regulator and when it's running a 12 volt system it has enough output to keep up with any 12 volt drain on the battery.

    The battery I run has 55 Amp Hours. It has almost 4 times as much storage as a conventional lawn and garden battery.

    CCA Numbers don't mean anything as to what we are discussing.


    So with a battery that has 4 times as much storage you should be able to get an idea of what it can handle per your own individual use patterns.

    I can charge a battery in a few hours at a 15 amp rate.


    I am not well versed in these things. This is just what I have learned and experienced as a parts changer. I am not a mechanic by any means.

    If anyone finds objections with what I say please don't hesitate to point out errors or to add ideas.
     
  10. Cadzilla

    Cadzilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 899

    Re reading your question....I just have it as the battery. No secrets there. Sits in the battery box.

    I should add this too. You can really increase your storage and Amp Hours dramatically if you want to re engineer a new battery box or add one on the left side of the unit for balance and run two batteries in parallel.


    Higher amp hour batteries are heavier as the amp hours increase. Keep this in mind.

    I think a standard L and G battery is about 20 lbs. A 55 is about 40 for example sake.


    Hell you could run an Optima Blue Top if you wanted too but they are way too big and heavy and don't offer much for the trade off.

    What you want to look at is Wheelchair and Mobility batteries for the scooters and electric wheelchairs.

    They come in a million sizes and shapes and AH ratings etc.

    Those scooters don't have chargers at all and they run 100% off the battery so high AH is what they offer.
     

Share This Page