ZTR Engine Trans Drive Pulley Key Question

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by therock, Nov 3, 2013.

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  1. therock

    therock LawnSite Member
    Posts: 72

    Does this look normal?
    I don't have the shaft it came off of or I would look to see if it looks OK.
    This is the pulley between the engine and the PTO.

    I see its a bushing pressed into the pulley and one side of me says its meant to give or shear if there is a failure of sorts.

    Thanks

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  2. tigerepairdotcom

    tigerepairdotcom LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 324

    Do you have a pic that is not so zoomed in so we can see the context of the crimp or whatever that is?
     
  3. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,171

    It's not meant to shear, its just a cheap/common way to make a key/keyway in a stamped pulley. Depending on what it is , I would replace it.

    Some new pulleys have those cracks in em, from where they slam the punch/die in em.
     
  4. therock

    therock LawnSite Member
    Posts: 72

    Thanks Guys,

    Went shopping and found Cub Cadet (CC) has changed the part number and drawing to show the pulley and a key, and a note saying to use it "with" another part number which is the key. So it looks like BigFish nailed it as being no good and to replace it, as CC changed it too.
    Oddly for once the CC site has it priced in line with aftermarket.

    At checkout it had Kohler in the invoice short description. Mine is a B&S so I had to reverse and confirm to find I picked the right part, they must be similar and CC migrated it to the B&S drawing. We will see what comes in the box.

    I'll post back

    Could not get a better key pic. It looks to be brazed and has a copper color, maybe a silicon bronze filler rod was used.

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    The Mower, a CC 44" Cub Cadet Z-Force 18HP B&S being replaced by a 23 HP B&S soon. I added the duplicate fuel tank on the right.:)

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  5. therock

    therock LawnSite Member
    Posts: 72

    Thanks Guys,

    The new pulley is a MUCH better unit. A full key way, welded, and flats so one can hold back to loosen or apply the 50 ft lbs.

    Looks like Cub Cadet came to their sences.

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  6. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,171

    Much beefier! Remember to swab a little never seez in the bore.
     
  7. therock

    therock LawnSite Member
    Posts: 72

    An update to this old mower. The key provided was too short only half as long as the key way. It would allow the electric clutch key to possibly rise and leave the clutch and occupy the unused space in the pulley.

    Highly unlikely but possible. I replaced both keys with a single key. We are good to go.

    The install is done and all is well. I'm getting 3200+ no-load RPM and it sounds quieter than the 18HP it replaced. Maybe the 18HP was a faster RPM engine? I cannot find the no-load spec for it an Intek 407777– 0128- E1. I would love to see it.

    Thanks!
     
  8. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,171

    Bump it up to 3600. That's pretty much the top no load for most all Briggs.
    It will run all day long at that speed, no problems.

    In fact, 3600rpm is pretty much what all small engines are designed to comfortably operate at. From an old lowly little side valve push mower motor to a brand new twin OHV. Some even a bit higher!
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2013
  9. therock

    therock LawnSite Member
    Posts: 72

    Thanks, I would welcome the tip speed. Can you send me the method, Motor 445577-6187 G5. Made 4/20/13.
     

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