I am still trying to determine if a Walker Hydrostatic drive can be rebuilt. I have learned it is built by Eaton. My Walker manual shows some parts for the input shaft side(gear/bearing/seal etc.). It has been suggested that you can't open the system but since Walker sells bearings and seal this suggests otherwise. Has any of you Walker guys had one rebuilt?? And has anybody used JD Thomas replacement part?
Walker Hydrostatic Drive-Rebuild?
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ed2hess
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I am still trying to determine if a Walker Hydrostatic drive can be rebuilt. I have learned it is built by Eaton. My Walker manual shows some parts for the input shaft side(gear/bearing/seal etc.). It has been suggested that you can't open the system but since Walker sells bearings and seal this suggests otherwise. Has any of you Walker guys had one rebuilt?? And has anybody used JD Thomas replacement part?
The input shaft and input shaft bearing are replaced by removing the input pulley and then removing a snap ring and PULLING them out from the OUTSIDE. You DO NOT take the pump apart to replace the input shaft and input bearing. If you ever did take pump apart you would need a press to put it back together. The put has 5 or is it 6 pistons that are spring loaded. You remove the bolts that hold the pump housing halves together and you will have parts flying all over the place. Now I have not took one apart but that is what Walker and Eaton has told us. I have replaced the input shaft and bearing on these pumps before. Some special tools are needed to make it easy to do. And I thank that the pumps that JD Thomas sells are Eaton pumps. This sounds like I have read your post before, did you post this on a Yahoo group?
Thanks for response yes I asked about this before...I have not taken the hyro out yet but there is a slight leak. It donesn't sound like fixing the leak will have any affect on the drive(surging on and off). I am concerned about how to be sure that I have a hydro problem and not the downstream drive train. I intend to put it in garage and jack it up and release pressure and roll it over to be sure it all rotates freely...any thing else I can do.
hay, I got a 2004 walker that i bought brand new and it's got 275 hours on it now, ever since the beginning when I get the hydros hot like after mowing for more then 30 min. it gets sloppy. I can drive on a perfectly flat road and at full speed it will drive straight then it seem that the left hydro will kick out for a second and the mower will start going to the left then it will kick in and jerk to the right and it will constantly keep doing it. I told my dealer and had them check it out but they could not really find anything wrong. The mechanic said that there is something wrong but not major and he dosent want to put a new hydro in it because if eaton says there's nothing wrong with it then it comes out of his pocket. Does anyone know what might be wrong with the hydros or what i can do to fix it. It's really gettin me mad because its pretty hard to make a straight line for striping a property. thanks.
That is the same symption that I have...it kicks out for just a short time. But if I try backing up a ramp on my trailer I have to pull the handle back almost all the way back on the side that ocassionally fails. Since those actuating lever are spring loaded back to normal, if they fail to go back after you actuate on side you could get a delay in action. So if you pull back on one side and it don't return immediately you will get a jerk when it pops back forward. That is what yours sounds like. But in my case the unit won't drive back and that can't be in the actuating arms since it is a solid condition. Don't know if this makes sense
There is nothing down stream that really can go bad. If it did you would hear one he$$ of a noise because the final drive is ALL steel gears on steel gears. I have a Walker in the shop right now that is doing the same thing on the right side. A pump has been ordered and I will be putting it in some time this week (when it come in). I will let you know how it goes.ed2hess said:
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a couple of the situations mentioned, about the hydro wanting to slow down or stop when hot. Sounds like an air leak somewhere... Like air is somehow getting into the fluid or the fluid itself is foaming for some reason. I know walkers are mostly sealed and have no oil lines so how the sir could be getting in there is beyond me, but it's something to think about.
I give idea because it happened to me on my 50" dixon. hydros would work fine, then suddenly one side or the other would shutter or as it got worse totally stop. I'd disengage the drive to the pumps, reengague it and it would work fine for a bit. I wnt thru the system and tightned a few clamps on hoses and replaced the fliter, which was leaking fluid, and put new mobile 15-50 in it. Now it works just like new again. Where exactly the air was getting in I dunno, but that was my mechanics guess and he was right.
I give idea because it happened to me on my 50" dixon. hydros would work fine, then suddenly one side or the other would shutter or as it got worse totally stop. I'd disengage the drive to the pumps, reengague it and it would work fine for a bit. I wnt thru the system and tightned a few clamps on hoses and replaced the fliter, which was leaking fluid, and put new mobile 15-50 in it. Now it works just like new again. Where exactly the air was getting in I dunno, but that was my mechanics guess and he was right.
Yes I was wondering if air can get in the pump at the input shaft seal. Mine is leaking at that seal so I am thinking about replacing that seal and crank it back up before changing out the hydro. It doesn't look like there is any way to drain the Walker but I was thinking about pumping out the fluid. Maybe somebody put in the wrong kind of oil before I got the unit.
Check this out, it will tell all about changing the hydro fluid. Read post number 3.ed2hess said:
http://lawnsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69075
Mr. Fixer
I grasping for straws here but is there a chance that my leaking seal could be allowing air into the system? When I rotated the right wheel with my hand it didn't have constant force on it, making me think that hydro is bad. Will that right side hydro come out without removing the blower? Looks like I will need to use a puller on the pulley.
Thanks you again for all you comments...
I grasping for straws here but is there a chance that my leaking seal could be allowing air into the system? When I rotated the right wheel with my hand it didn't have constant force on it, making me think that hydro is bad. Will that right side hydro come out without removing the blower? Looks like I will need to use a puller on the pulley.
Thanks you again for all you comments...
Part of the blower will need to come out. The funnel shaped piece on the front of the blower needs to come out. There are only 3 nuts holding it to the blower box. Just to replace the input shaft, bearing and seal you do not need to remove the pump. NOTE= Speical tools are needed to replace the seal. The first will be a puller to get the pulley off the shaft. A regualr puller will not do and you will have to make or grind a puller to use. I use a modifed puller at work. I will try to bring it home to get pictures of it. The second tool is a puller as well and it is made from a 2" piece of pipe. I will draw that one for you. There is a snap ring that holds the bearing in place and it can be a pain to get out. Good luck.ed2hess said:
I pulled the hydro pump out no problem. I see that this pump can be pulled apart but I assume that this is not necessary if I get a new pump. I just take off the actuating lever, pulley and gear? I have NO hope of putting a new seal in this thing and getting it to work. I can turn the pulley manually with the lever actuated and I get practically no constant output to the gear.
Fixer67-I have decided not to replace the seal. Would you post a picture of the modification you made to the puller to get that pulley off? And the actuating lever, what is best way to get it off? All this is pot metal and will break easily I would assume.
Ya, it kind of kicks out for a second, then it kicks back in. I can still back up no problem thought I have to pull one back further then the other. Do you think its the pump. I can't drive a straight line when I have it anywhere near full speed, Going slow though it seem to be pretty good.ed2hess said:
The actuating lever is just held in place by one of the four bolts that holds the pump to the final drive. Just take the bolt out and the actuating lever will fall off. NOTE=The actuating lever one the right side (Battery side) has a nut that goes on the bolt that goes all the way though the pump and holds the surport for the jackshaft. That nut has to be removed before the bolt can be unscrewed. I will post then pictures for you of the puller.
The puller is AmPro Model T70068ed2hess said:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=APO&mfrpartnumber=T70068
Picture one shows the cut out you will need to make.
Picture two and three show how it fits. I had an extra pulley to go by when this puller was made but I am guessing you do not have an extra pulley. The cut is about 1/4" to 5/16" in and a little better than a 1/2". The puller works great. Good luck
No there is a "L" shaped Lever that you turn the pump on/off with. I got all the linkage disconnected. The lever has a nut on it which i have taken off. These darn parts are so espensive I don't want to break anything.fixer67 said:
OH, you are talking about the flow control lever on the bottom of the pump that has the linkage going up to the handles. One you remove the nut you will need a puller to pull it off. The arm is mounted on a tapered shaft that has a woodruf key in it. The key is small and is easy to lose. I use a bolt type ball joint separator like you use in the front end a car to get them off. I will post a picture of what I am talking about for you as soon as I find one. Speaking of pictures did you see the pulley remover pictures I posted?ed2hess said:
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