I would like to try some notched high lifts (or catching flat blades as you call them) for my 60" XR7 deck but Hustler doesn't seem to offer any, only the high sail flat blade (fusion). What size center hole does the 60" XR7 have and mabe I can try a different brand if you don't make them. I think they are 20.50" long. Trying to get a little more lift than the Fusion high sails have. Thanks.
Notched high lifts for XR7 60"
tacoma200
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I would like to try some notched high lifts (or catching flat blades as you call them) for my 60" XR7 deck but Hustler doesn't seem to offer any, only the high sail flat blade (fusion). What size center hole does the 60" XR7 have and mabe I can try a different brand if you don't make them. I think they are 20.50" long. Trying to get a little more lift than the Fusion high sails have. Thanks.
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The Fusion's are the highest lift blade we offer.
I will get the measurements you need, so you can look for a different blade.
I will get the measurements you need, so you can look for a different blade.
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The sail on a Fusion blade is the same higth as a standard notched blade, 2.5" wide blade is 1.20" high sail. A 3.0" wide blade has a 1.5" sail. I bought a bunch of different blades last year to do this same serch. Dixie Chopper and Exmark are the only brands showing a notched sail that is 20.5" long with a 5/8" hole. The Exmark blade has a longer sail, like what I use. Mowmore's catalog has the best blade discription of any catalog that I have seen.tacoma200 said:
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I am not getting near the lift with the Hustler XR7 with fusion high lifts that I do with the Exmark Ultracut with notched high lifts. The grass looks fine from a distance but it is not sucked up and cut off as even on Nothern grasses. This may just be the no baffle deck design but I could use some more lift for picky customers. I'm not going the spacer route so I thought switching to a notched high lift like Exmark uses would give a little more lift than the solid foil high lift. Here is the explanation I was given by Exmark. Fescue has to be stood up before cutting for a smooth cut, unlike Southern grasses that are rigid:tshank said:
NOTCHED AIR FOIL
These are factory blade and best for most applications
Max. lift and discharge velocity
Ideal for heavy thick grasses
Take full advantage of hp
SOLID AIR FOIL
Blades reduce flex when mowing
Blades donÂ’t tend to bend as easily after impact
Can help in reducing blow out
Helpful in cutting Bahia shoot, Dandelions, Foxtail, etc.
Will reduce discharge velocity
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Mowed fescue again today. Looks good from a distance just not as smooth as I would like on closer examination. A few missed blades but not too bad. Just wish I could get enough lift to get that carpet look I'm used to. I dont want any washers or drastic changes. If any one has used the notched high lifts on fescue let me know if it helped. I'll eventually get around to trying some but it may be awhile. It's getting to where I use the Exmark on the better yard's and thats not good when you've got a new Huster. I'm sure I'll figure out a solution. Doubles are not an option (not enough power) and I shouldn't have to use them with a new mower. This would not be a problem in coarser grasses but the fescue lays down and needs sucked back up strait before cutting. Any idea's....
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Tacoma200,
You really need to put the spacers in, that is part of the design of the XR-7, being able to space the blades further down below the front of the deck for those southern grasses / conditions.
You really need to put the spacers in, that is part of the design of the XR-7, being able to space the blades further down below the front of the deck for those southern grasses / conditions.
Notched high lifts do not cut as good as solid foil. I think it messes with the air flow and causes poor cut. The spacer and lowering the baffle really works when things dry out. Don't know much 'bout deck design, but get the idea that all that Exmark vac. is what caused the poor wet grass performance. Every mower is a trade-off of some kind.mowerconsultant said:
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Fescue isn't a Southern grass. Most of the seed comes from the North west. It isn't rigid like some of the Southern grasses. Not trying to be smart but I've never heard of fescue considered such. Stripes very well if thats what you want. I'm definately dealing with cool weather grasses.
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Just a follow up. The grass is cut pretty smooth at 3.25" and less. Above 3.25" the cut is not as smooth on the fescue and I believe it is a lift or vaccum issue. I have talked to others on this board with the same problem with Northern grasses. If you will notice the post about XR7 quality cut issues you will see that these guys are saying the same thing and they are not mowing in the deep South. The XR7 just looses lift above a certain height with the fusion blades anyway and I'm trying to improve this. This happens on other mowers also but not at this low height. Lots of times in the Summer they cut very high here. Any input would be appreciated from those mowing Nothern grasses (fescue) at these heights.
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I ran the notched foil eXmark Excaliburs today. They seem to take LESS power. Still no difference in lift though. With the L baffle brackets removed, it did MUCH better with the crabgrass clogging though.
IMO, the blades need to be spaced down 1/4" and the front skirt baffle needs to be lowered at least 1/2".
All the vacuum is being lost out the front with the super high front skirt baffle.
Another thing I noticed today is that the front baffle is VERY close (about 1/4"!) to the blade tips. Not much room for grass flow IMO. IIRC, the Ultra-Cut had a good inch from blade tip to front baffle.
IMO, the blades need to be spaced down 1/4" and the front skirt baffle needs to be lowered at least 1/2".
All the vacuum is being lost out the front with the super high front skirt baffle.
Another thing I noticed today is that the front baffle is VERY close (about 1/4"!) to the blade tips. Not much room for grass flow IMO. IIRC, the Ultra-Cut had a good inch from blade tip to front baffle.
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Well I guess I missed the first couple words of your post there, I didn't read the fescue part......
TLS is correct, you can lower your blades and bolt in the air control baffle that lowers the front edge of the deck, it is part # 106765.
I will e-mail this thread to our design engineer's on the XR-7 and see what they have to say.
Pj
TLS is correct, you can lower your blades and bolt in the air control baffle that lowers the front edge of the deck, it is part # 106765.
I will e-mail this thread to our design engineer's on the XR-7 and see what they have to say.
Pj
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Thanks, its starting to make more sense to me. Just a different deck that I'm having a learning curve with. Loosing vaccum out the high front baffle makes sence also. Cut is very good at lower heights so I know I will find a soulution if I haven't allready now.
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I am not totally sure about the baffles you and TLS are speaking of if you are even speaking of the same thing. I think TLS is speaking of the baffle that you can lower just in front of the blades that comes standard and you are speaking of an add on part for the front of the deck. I'm not very familiar with some of this terminology so just making sure were on the same page.mowerconsultant said:
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I don't have a picture, I will see if I can get one though.
This baffle bolts in to the front lip of the deck and lowers it to the same level as the sides of the deck.
This is typically used for mulching or bagging when there is air rolling out of the front of the deck.
This is not the air flow baffles that are adjustable when you lower the blades in the deck.
Pj
This baffle bolts in to the front lip of the deck and lowers it to the same level as the sides of the deck.
This is typically used for mulching or bagging when there is air rolling out of the front of the deck.
This is not the air flow baffles that are adjustable when you lower the blades in the deck.
Pj
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Hey, PJ.
Hmmm. So it bolts to the actual front skirt. That's not really what I'm looking for. I'm looking to lower the ENTIRE front INTERNAL baffle about a 1/2"-3/4". I want to get rid of the L brackets.
Looks like I may need to butcher my L brackets and make them straight, then lower them to the lower hole. But I think I want this across the entire front baffle. The raised front baffle (and corresponding front deck edge) are great for long stringy weeds, but allow entirely too much lift to excape. When lowering the blades (with spacer), this REALLY gets extreme, and blowout is unbearable.
Notice where the blade to baffle relationship is with the Triton.
![Image]()
Hmmm. So it bolts to the actual front skirt. That's not really what I'm looking for. I'm looking to lower the ENTIRE front INTERNAL baffle about a 1/2"-3/4". I want to get rid of the L brackets.
Looks like I may need to butcher my L brackets and make them straight, then lower them to the lower hole. But I think I want this across the entire front baffle. The raised front baffle (and corresponding front deck edge) are great for long stringy weeds, but allow entirely too much lift to excape. When lowering the blades (with spacer), this REALLY gets extreme, and blowout is unbearable.
Notice where the blade to baffle relationship is with the Triton.
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PJ wrote: "Have Rigg's look at the pitch and also I would add the spacers and lower the baffles in the front.
I don't think the blow out kit will make a difference in this case."
Is there another baffle you are describing in this thread? I have already spaced the blades down 1/4" but did not move the factory baffle. How far down should I mow the baffle to get the desired effect? Is there another baffle other then the blowout baffle that we should try? I do have a bagger for the unit and would like to minimize blowout, do you have the part number for this item?
I did some bagging with the Humboldt bagger yesterday with Dixie chopper x-blades and had stripes that would rival anything I have ever seen on this web site. The stripes were incredible, and as good as or better then anything with a stripe rollar or chains. I was very pleased. These blades take an immense amount of power to turn, and do not feel I can use them any longer for fear of damage or an inability to cut with any speed during high growth conditions. I had high hopes for the 30 hp unit, but it just does not seem to have enough power to turn them, nor does the clutch seem like it will withstand the stress for long.
I don't think the blow out kit will make a difference in this case."
Is there another baffle you are describing in this thread? I have already spaced the blades down 1/4" but did not move the factory baffle. How far down should I mow the baffle to get the desired effect? Is there another baffle other then the blowout baffle that we should try? I do have a bagger for the unit and would like to minimize blowout, do you have the part number for this item?
I did some bagging with the Humboldt bagger yesterday with Dixie chopper x-blades and had stripes that would rival anything I have ever seen on this web site. The stripes were incredible, and as good as or better then anything with a stripe rollar or chains. I was very pleased. These blades take an immense amount of power to turn, and do not feel I can use them any longer for fear of damage or an inability to cut with any speed during high growth conditions. I had high hopes for the 30 hp unit, but it just does not seem to have enough power to turn them, nor does the clutch seem like it will withstand the stress for long.
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