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silvercvic

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
What is the purpose of the master control valve besides it shutting down the entire sprinkler system? I've read in a book its not needed but a great insurance for conserving water. I just confused because it mentioned was an automatic valve, at first, then a gate valve later (but not the main shutoff).

Does it have a place to be wired in a controller (Hunter Pro-C)? Does open each time a zone valve is open? What happens if a zone valve opens and the main control doesn't?

i'm at the point in my installation where I have installed most of the PVC pipes underground, wired up 3 zones in a valve box (front); teed off PVC to the backyard.

I'm about to wire up the backyard (3 zones), hook up the RPZ and connect that to the front valves, I'm wondering if I need to -or- should connect 1 more valve right after the RPZ to be the main control valve?

Any suggestions?!?
 
silvercvic said:
What is the purpose of the master control valve besides it shutting down the entire sprinkler system? I've read in a book its not needed but a great insurance for conserving water. I just confused because it mentioned was an automatic valve, at first, then a gate valve later (but not the main shutoff).

Does it have a place to be wired in a controller (Hunter Pro-C)? Does open each time a zone valve is open? What happens if a zone valve opens and the main control doesn't?

i'm at the point in my installation where I have installed most of the PVC pipes underground, wired up 3 zones in a valve box (front); teed off PVC to the backyard.

I'm about to wire up the backyard (3 zones), hook up the RPZ and connect that to the front valves, I'm wondering if I need to -or- should connect 1 more valve right after the RPZ to be the main control valve?

Any suggestions?!?
We don't use masters, just one more wire connection, pipe connection and valve to have problems with down the road, yes the pro-c should have a master terminal, if not wire it up to the pump terminal.
 
it is a good idea to use one.

yes the pro c has a terminal for it. it is the pump/ MV terminal. it is the first one above the common.


a master valve should be installed where you tap into the main line. What it does is to limit the time that the main line is pressurized. The main is only under pressure when a zone is running. This reduces the chance for a leak in the main.

it is more important when you are doing in line valves, or when the main is a long way from the tap in to the manifold.
 
I only use a master valve when I have a poly main line, and don't want it under 24/7 pressure. For a manifold of valves near the house, I'd rather spend the master-valve money for zone valves with flow controls.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Well, the RPZ comes out of the house, since I am teeing the line from in the basement and coming out of the house, should I have the MV before or after the RPZ (take some pressure of the BFD as well??)?

Asides from that the RPZ is only about 2 ft away from the front manifold and about 80ft from the back area manifold zone.

Also is it just any valve or does it have to be a Rainbird PEB (or similar), my current manifold setup consists of Rainbird Jartops?
 
silvercvic said:
Well, the RPZ comes out of the house, since I am teeing the line from in the basement and coming out of the house, should I have the MV before or after the RPZ (take some pressure of the BFD as well??)?

Asides from that the RPZ is only about 2 ft away from the front manifold and about 80ft from the back area manifold zone.

Also is it just any valve or does it have to be a Rainbird PEB (or similar), my current manifold setup consists of Rainbird Jartops?
Look at it like a safety valve in which two valves must open for one zone to open. It can be any valve but I use the PEB since it is a great valve but pricey. With a master valve the likely hood of a zone valve running for days on end if you have a zone stick open while out of town. I especially use master valves at the end of culdesac since all the trash in the mains gets flushed to the end of the line which is a culdesac in my area.
 
It would bad to let a $55.00 ruin a landscape.quality is not the question then why not use all peb valves?I would just rather have to deal w/one valve per zone.MV ARE SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OLD SCHOOL!Unless you have a sports feild or something in that range of work.:drinkup:
 
PROFESSORRAIN said:
It would bad to let a $55.00 ruin a landscape.quality is not the question then why not use all peb valves?I would just rather have to deal w/one valve per zone.MV ARE SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OLD SCHOOL!Unless you have a sports feild or something in that range of work.:drinkup:
I guess I'm old school then....:cool2:
I can count on my hand in the past 15 years that a customer has called, from a system I installed, and said" My PEB master Valve is not working" Zero times. You don't know how many times I have had the call " My zone wont close" from other contractors systems.. MANY TIMES..
 
We only use scrubbing valves for masters.

However, we only install masters on systems that are out of our service area, or watering bluffs where serious erosion could happen due to a stuck valve.

We use the Rainbird DVF-100 for our usual zone valves, thanks to the screened solenoid the chances of them sticking are very slim. In fact, I can count on one hand the number of valves I've seen stick.

That said, to all you master valvers, remember that diaphragm valves work on a pressure differential between the two sides of the diaphragm. If the timer closes the zone valve before trying to close the master valve it will never close because the pressure on both sides of the diaphragm remains constant. So your mainline is still under constant pressure.

Because of this, I don't consider a master valve as protection for poly mainlines. They will shut the moment the main bursts, but the damage is already done.
 
MY POINT EXACTLY!INSTALL ONE VALVE NO GUESSING WHAT'S IN THE GROUND.PLUS THEY MAKE A FLOW -CLIK NOW.Sorry about caps!No two fitters do it the same way,sounds like it works for you.Oh yea is your landscape thru or is there possibility of hitting a wire with later shoveling?Just a question had a customer when I was a supplier put in MV on every job got in special order something or another, help cut one wire, guess which?one guess as long as you guess the one going to MV.
 
PROFESSORRAIN said:
MY POINT EXACTLY!INSTALL ONE VALVE NO GUESSING WHAT'S IN THE GROUND.PLUS THEY MAKE A FLOW -CLIK NOW.Sorry about caps!No two fitters do it the same way,sounds like it works for you.Oh yea is your landscape thru or is there possibility of hitting a wire with later shoveling?Just a question had a customer when I was a supplier put in MV on every job got in special order something or another, help cut one wire, guess which?one guess as long as you guess the one going to MV.
:dizzy: Please elucidate.
 
his help cut wire to the mv no power no water no living bush or tree.my point is I am comfortable w/o MV.I'm glad to get calls about valves not shutting down.thank about a chicken farmer you thank he smells the chicken dump or does it smell like money?????
 
PROFESSORRAIN said:
his help cut wire to the mv no power no water no living bush or tree.my point is I am comfortable w/o MV.I'm glad to get calls about valves not shutting down.thank about a chicken farmer you thank he smells the chicken dump or does it smell like money?????
If the line is broken, with or without a MV, your going to get a call for the repair. I'd rather get the call during the day rather than at 8:00 at night.

-Another "Old School" MV Installer (but new to the whole irrigation thing)
 
So manyy advances have been made in irrigation in just a couple of years it's just money I don't spend,luckily i have had no problems so far if it becomes a problem i'll go back to school.
 
I have also used the MV terminal in the controller to turn on a fertilizer injector pump. So even if you are not using the function for a true Master Valve it still has applications. I have never actually seen anyone use a master valve here in AZ. I started in 1980 and thats a lot of systems.
 
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