I have new construction lawns where customers wait 2 to 3 months before putting in a new lawn. In that time the dirt has been taken over by weeds. We do hydroseeding, so we want a weed free and dirt lawn before we spray. I was thinking mowing the weeds down really low, collecting the clippings and then using a pull behind counter rotating tiller to kill the weeds which will prepare the soil bed. Or would it be better to use Round up, mow the weeds down collect them, and then till? My understanding is that tilling kills the weeds immediately, so if that is the case I could save myself an extra step by not doing the round up. Please give me the best advice!
Round Up vs Rototilling
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dreamlawnllc
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I have new construction lawns where customers wait 2 to 3 months before putting in a new lawn. In that time the dirt has been taken over by weeds. We do hydroseeding, so we want a weed free and dirt lawn before we spray. I was thinking mowing the weeds down really low, collecting the clippings and then using a pull behind counter rotating tiller to kill the weeds which will prepare the soil bed. Or would it be better to use Round up, mow the weeds down collect them, and then till? My understanding is that tilling kills the weeds immediately, so if that is the case I could save myself an extra step by not doing the round up. Please give me the best advice!
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dreamlawnllc
IMHO I like to Roundup first and let the Weeds die completely before tilling. I feel the Weeds clumps break up easier if they are dead and dried up. I also like to Drag the Area with two railroad ties held together with chain link fence to level the area after tilling.
IMHO I like to Roundup first and let the Weeds die completely before tilling. I feel the Weeds clumps break up easier if they are dead and dried up. I also like to Drag the Area with two railroad ties held together with chain link fence to level the area after tilling.
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I round up and wait for the weeds to die. Wait 2-3 weeks to see if there is any new growth or any of the old struggling to survive, spray those. The till it! level and go to seeding or sodding. Hope that helps!
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Thanks Ric and Turf Professionals for the info!
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Round-up the weeds first. Then you can till the area after the weeds are completely killed. Make sure to wait at least 2 weeks after round-up before hydroseeding or sodding. Tilling weeds that are actively growing may pull up the foliage of weeds and some of the root system, however, some weeds have rhizomes or tubers that are left under the surface. Over time you can bet on weeds re-emerging through your newly seeded or sodded lawn. Preperation is everything. Take the extra time to ensure a desired outcome.
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Round-up everything then wait about 10-14 days for everything to die. Use a harley rake on a dingo for a small area or a harley rake on a bobcat for bigger areas. The harley rakes do a better job than a tiller and they are a lot easier to use than a back breaking tiller!
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Boats and Tadams,
This is off the subject a little...but I posted a thread a couple of weeks ago about getting a Harley Rake and have a couple questions.
I have decided to go with the skidloader and Harley route. What kind and size(hp) of Skid and Harley are you using?
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
This is off the subject a little...but I posted a thread a couple of weeks ago about getting a Harley Rake and have a couple questions.
I have decided to go with the skidloader and Harley route. What kind and size(hp) of Skid and Harley are you using?
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
You don't need to till down deep for hydro-seeding. Roundup to kill tough weeds, wait a week, then scarify to loosened the upper inch or two. There is no need to make more work for yourself especially considering the rough grade that results from a full till.
Here's a Toro Dingo with a cultivator that leaves a perfect seed bed. Notice that we had just rototilled this soil & it would have been a disaster to hand rake:
http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=63418
Here's a Toro Dingo with a cultivator that leaves a perfect seed bed. Notice that we had just rototilled this soil & it would have been a disaster to hand rake:
http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=63418
It is really nothing short of amazing how these machines work. I think that Rotadairon thing is awesome, too. That thing is in a class all by itself.
http://www.mge-dairon.com/sous_type_produit.php?typ_prod=1&langue=en
http://www.mge-dairon.com/sous_type_produit.php?typ_prod=1&langue=en
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I know I am a little late on this, but I have two different approaches for new seedings. Like most everyone here, I prefer to kill off the weeds a few weeks before doing the prepwork, it just plain makes it easier to work with. I also use a harley and a tiller, depending on the situation. I recently purchased a new 6 ft tiller for my larger tractor, I have had a 4ft model for years. My New tiller is a King Cutter and I like it a lot better than some of the higher priced brands. The KingCutter has 6 tiller tines on each row ( most only have 4) and cuts the soil very fine. The finished product is very smooth. So much so that I am adding a seedbox and cultipacker to the back of the tiller so I can till and seed in one pass. I will post a pic when I get it finished. If it works like I hope it will, I'll probably build one for my 4ft tiller and smaller tractor.
Harley rakes are a real pain if grass and weeds are present, they always leave a jumble of junk to hual off. Yes, they leave a very smooth surface, but the ground underneath is still hard and compacted. I am to the point now that if I am just smoothing and seeding, I will harley rake and then areovate to breakup the sub-surface and then seed. For those that are willing to pay for a quality job, I apply all amendments and till 6 inches deep and then Harleyrake and seed. Hopefully, my cultipacker/seedbox combo will help eleminate one step and provide a better product.
Harley rakes are a real pain if grass and weeds are present, they always leave a jumble of junk to hual off. Yes, they leave a very smooth surface, but the ground underneath is still hard and compacted. I am to the point now that if I am just smoothing and seeding, I will harley rake and then areovate to breakup the sub-surface and then seed. For those that are willing to pay for a quality job, I apply all amendments and till 6 inches deep and then Harleyrake and seed. Hopefully, my cultipacker/seedbox combo will help eleminate one step and provide a better product.
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Mudstopper,
Since you have both a tiller and harley...would you recommend one over the other?
Looking at getting a skid this week and going to add a Harley to it.
I was going to use the harley more for leveling as I have Landpride os1548 that I do all my seeding with.
I would rather buy a tiller ($$$$$$$) if it would work better. I have a 30hp tractor already and hate to put out the bucks for a skid and Harley!
What do you think?
Since you have both a tiller and harley...would you recommend one over the other?
Looking at getting a skid this week and going to add a Harley to it.
I was going to use the harley more for leveling as I have Landpride os1548 that I do all my seeding with.
I would rather buy a tiller ($$$$$$$) if it would work better. I have a 30hp tractor already and hate to put out the bucks for a skid and Harley!
What do you think?
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