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I have not used either..my concern is the same as Kiril's. The other concern,
as with other buried devices is, "how do you know it's working?" I suppose
you could mark a spot so you could check it with the Lincoln moisture probe.
Call me old fashion, I prefer a "four poster"of spray zones around trees, at
the drip line..you always know if it's working.:)
 
I have used them and been happy with the results. It’s really pretty easy to tell if they are working...if you get the version with the high flow bubbler they fill pretty quickly to the top of the cylinder so you can see (and hear) that they are functioning (the lid/grate in installed at grade). I have not seen any issues with root intrusion so far…
 
I have used them and been happy with the results. ItÂ’s really pretty easy to tell if they are working...if you get the version with the high flow bubbler they fill pretty quickly to the top of the cylinder so you can see (and hear) that they are functioning (the lid/grate in installed at grade). I have not seen any issues with root intrusion so farÂ…
Neat..looked like a cool idea, in theory, glad someone's put it into service.
 
Another thing I would be concerned about is water usage. Seems if it is on the same zone as turf, your potentially putting ALOT of water outside the effective root zone.
Yeah I'm not real sold on those either. Here is a technique I've thought of but never tried. I'm assuming most tree watering is for establishment. Once established I feel the irrigation system will provide needed watering when established. What if you took 12" spaced netafim and before backfilling the ball circled the ball at different heights using stakes to hold it against the ball. Finish it off with two runs at the surface. Once established cut the netafim off at the source and replace with a bubbler or not run at all?
GOOD IDEA OR BAD IDEA?
 
Yeah I'm not real sold on those either. Here is a technique I've thought of but never tried. I'm assuming most tree watering is for establishment. Once established I feel the irrigation system will provide needed watering when established. What if you took 12" spaced netafim and before backfilling the ball circled the ball at different heights using stakes to hold it against the ball. Finish it off with two runs at the surface. Once established cut the netafim off at the source and replace with a bubbler or not run at all?
GOOD IDEA OR BAD IDEA?
Not too sure about that. Seems to me that might lead to the roots never leaving the root ball. Perhaps if you did a triangle from the surface down?

I can draw a picture if that helps.
 
Not too sure about that. Seems to me that might lead to the roots never leaving the root ball. Perhaps if you did a triangle from the surface down?

I can draw a picture if that helps.
I can visualize what you are saying. Don't know that I agree with roots not leaving ball. Root growth is genetic.
 
I can visualize what you are saying. Don't know that I agree with roots not leaving ball. Root growth is genetic.
Yes, but roots will only grow where there is water. You want to draw the roots away/down from the root ball/surface by using your water to lead them in the direction you want them to go. Course this is all moot when your talking trees in turf.
 
Another thing I would be concerned about is water usage. Seems if it is on the same zone as turf, your potentially putting ALOT of water outside the effective root zone.
From my experience that is where the placement of the RWS and the bubbler/emitter chosen comes into play. There are various GRM and GPH bubblers/emitters available so you just need to make sure you are using the right one based on the zone run time if you are running on a turf zoneÂ…Most of the work I have done with these has been in island situations not on a turf areas but they would work in either situation.
 
Yeah I'm not real sold on those either. Here is a technique I've thought of but never tried. I'm assuming most tree watering is for establishment. Once established I feel the irrigation system will provide needed watering when established. What if you took 12" spaced netafim and before backfilling the ball circled the ball at different heights using stakes to hold it against the ball. Finish it off with two runs at the surface. Once established cut the netafim off at the source and replace with a bubbler or not run at all?
GOOD IDEA OR BAD IDEA?
Seems like a lot more work than just putting in the RWS or RZWS...as mentioned before how would you know if it is functioning? Also, from what I understand one of the additional benefits of these systems is that they allow oxygenation of the soil and the roots, that would not happen in the system you describe. Finally, I want to encourage the roots to grow down and DEEP and that is why I like these systems they donÂ’t encourage roots to seek a surface source of water.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Seems like a lot more work than just putting in the RWS or RZWS...as mentioned before how would you know if it is functioning? Also, from what I understand one of the additional benefits of these systems is that they allow oxygenation of the soil and the roots, that would not happen in the system you describe. Finally, I want to encourage the roots to grow down and DEEP and that is why I like these systems they donÂ’t encourage roots to seek a surface source of water.
i dont understand your last statement of - I want to encourage the roots to grow down and DEEP and that is why I like these systems they donÂ’t encourage roots to seek a surface source of water.

The root zone canasters (which i will call them) come in 10'', 18'' and 36'' so how can you say they wont encourage deep growth. remember you can limit the watering or fill that you would need.
 
i dont understand your last statement of - I want to encourage the roots to grow down and DEEP and that is why I like these systems they don't encourage roots to seek a surface source of water.

The root zone canasters (which i will call them) come in 10'', 18'' and 36'' so how can you say they wont encourage deep growth. remember you can limit the watering or fill that you would need.
I guess I am missing what you are saying...I said "I want to encourage the roots to grow down and DEEP and that is why I like these systems they don't encourage roots to seek a surface source of water" So I am saying the the root zone canasters do encourage deep root growth, vs a surface application of water. Perhaps we agree?
:confused:
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I guess I am missing what you are saying...I said "I want to encourage the roots to grow down and DEEP and that is why I like these systems they donÂ’t encourage roots to seek a surface source of water" So I am saying the the root zone canasters do encourage deep root growth, vs a surface application of water. Perhaps we agree?
:confused:
Yes:waving:
 
A customer of mine here had a large Ash tree that was not looking so good. He got a 1.5" piece of PVC about 3' down and watered through that, gave it some air down low. The thing came back like someone kicked it in the junk.
 
what type of soil do you have? *trucewhiteflag*
"Soil" is a kind word for us....most is glacial till, very rocky with a slippery
clay base. It's the clay that gives the trees fits..very shallow rooting around
here, which is why we have to be very carefull with overwatering, on the
other side, we mostly don't need supplimental watering 'cause the roots are
at the same grade as turf!:laugh: Lose the red flag, it bothers the bulls.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
"Soil" is a kind word for us....most is glacial till, very rocky with a slippery
clay base. It's the clay that gives the trees fits..very shallow rooting around
here, which is why we have to be very carefull with overwatering, on the
other side, we mostly don't need supplimental watering 'cause the roots are
at the same grade as turf!:laugh: Lose the red flag, it bothers the bulls.
just wondering, did the sun come up on the right side of the block for you? you seen very cranky, is your desk job getting to you?
 
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