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Lo-Blo the Air-Broom

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BLAZERBRUCE

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I recently picked up an old Lo-Blo Air-Broom by Atwater Strong INC. I am looking for any information I can find about the blower and company. The Model Number is K 8 CA. The unit is powered by Kohler, and appears to be the 8hp K181 (missing tags). For a small investment of $80 including purchase, I wouldn't mind continuing to restore the unit. Most important the engine has strong compression and a newer Walbro carb, so I feel its worth the investment.

So far, I have replaced the throttle cable, and finishing up touches on the fabricated replica handles. Plans include repainting the Unit, but I'm not 100% sure on a safe way to remove the blower wheel.

Thanks,
Bruce
 
#2 ·
BLAZERBRUCE said:
but I'm not 100% sure on a safe way to remove the blower wheel.
Click to expand...
Well, if this is the unit I am thinking of, then there is a nut on the end of the axle that you would just take off. No nut ? Then there might be an E clip that you can just pop off....Is the blower shroud on this unit a light blue ?
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Breezmister,

The blower shroud is a light blue. I took a look, and there is a nut located on the axel. Once I remove the nut, is the blower wheel pressed on? or should it slide off easily if I soak it in 'break-free'. The blower is cast, and dont want to crack it in the event it shouldn't require force to remove. The only reason I would like to remove the blower wheel is to completely tear down the unit for proper prep and paint next spring.

Thanks,

Bruce
 
#4 ·
BLAZERBRUCE said:
The blower shroud is a light blue. I took a look, and there is a nut located on the axel. Once I remove the nut, is the blower wheel pressed on?
Click to expand...
The wheel should just slide off as long as the axle is clean, which I doubt :rolleyes: I have used a raw hide mallet to "help" the wheel off turning it as I hit it. Do not use a hammer on the rim, but if you have nothing else, hit the tire and some PB Blaster will help
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Breezmister,

Thanks for the info, I think will try PB Blaster tommorow morning, and hopefuly have a large enough socket. I have never dissambled a unit like this before, and from what I see, it looks like a sleeve around the shaft, and the blower is fitted to that with a nut. But I will find out tommorow if the weather isnt too bad.

~Bruce
 
#7 ·
BLAZERBRUCE said:
I tried using PB Blaster, the Nut is on their solid. The one thing left to do is figure out a way to hold the blower without breaking a fin off and put some arm into it :weightlifter:
Click to expand...
I'm guessing you don't have an impact wrench :cry: Breaker bar and a pipe
works for me when I come across a nut that won't move, just be careful if you try this. Breaker bars do break...and if any part of you anatomy is in the way, it will hurt :(
Take your time and think out side the box if you don't have the right tools
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
.... overnight soaking of PB Blaster, some brute force :weightlifter: and in 2 minutes the nut is removed :) I used a wrench fitted diagonally across the blower to hold it in place and wrench away at it.


Now for step 2: which might be the real tricky one, removing the blower from the engine output shaft. Too bad the unit isn't fitted for a flywheel puller :rolleyes:


I'm going to let the blower soak over night again, and then debate what will be a good way to pull it.

~Bruce
 
#9 ·
BLAZERBRUCE said:
Now for step 2: which might be the real tricky one, removing the blower from the engine output shaft. Too bad the unit isn't fitted for a flywheel puller :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Glade to hear you got it off....:drinkup: Do a search for removing an impeller and check out some of the tips that where suggested, might give you some ideas on how to remove the impeller/fan on the engine. If I remember correctly, there are some sheet metal screws that hold the front cover on so you can pull the impeller out once you have it off the engine.
Good Luck
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
The impeller is going to be a permenant fixture unless its cut off. Its on their tight enough I found it had a small fracture starting from the sleeve about 2 inches long, and rusty, so at least I know I wasnt the creator. I'll drill a small hole at the opposite end of the crack to prevent it from spreading.

~Bruce
 
#11 ·
BLAZERBRUCE said:
The impeller is going to be a permenant fixture unless its cut off. Its on their tight enough I found it had a small fracture starting from the sleeve about 2 inches long, and rusty, so at least I know I wasnt the creator. I'll drill a small hole at the opposite end of the crack to prevent it from spreading.
Click to expand...
Cutting the impeller off is a last resort unless you are in a big hurry, but I have had to do it. I have a set of tapered pry bars I use to wedge behind the impeller and soak it with oil and let it set. Go back later and hit the pry bars, wedging them in farther and soak it again in oil, doing this over a few days. But you have to think about what you are wedging up against, if it is the engine, you can crack the engine case. Heating it with a torch is another way for getting it off, but safety is the word here, be careful if you have a torch.....
If you are not going to take the impeller off, drilling the hole in the crack is a good way of stopping the crack, but I have seen cracks migrate pass the drill hole, just keep an eye on it.
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
The only way I would find myself going the extra mile and risk breaking the impeller is if I had another one laying around. This spring will show how well I am at masking and painting :dizzy: one of these days I will post a picture online of the unit now, and after. The good thing, is I can easily inspect the impeller through the grate.


~Bruce
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I finished installing new handles on the unit, fabricated out of 3/4" Conduit. The task was easy, and modified the original design to give the unit a comfortable balance, now if you tilt the unit (blower housing 3-4 inches from the ground) it pushes through pacasandra with minimal effort. I also relocated the throttle to strengthen the previous weak spot. Im still waiting for a break in the weather to paint and swap out wheel hubs with a spare set I had in the garage. For a now $110 investement after paint, I can't complain. Beats having to use backpacks in large open areas.
 
#14 ·
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
I am going to paint the bottom half of the handles, then remount and weld where I bolted them together. This is where a stress crack had formed on the old handles. The previous owners crimped the handles trying to tighten the throttle assembly. I decided it was best to relocate the throttle.


Depending on motovation and time, thinking of making the air vane adustable for wind direction. Any ideas? My dad has mentioned making it controlled by cable. He is also going to work on the blower to resolve the stress crack, which I think might have something to do with the engine most likly being rebuilt. The compression seems to be "too good" for something this old, used daily on a golf course, and not consume oil... but then again Kohler sure knows how to manufacture a strong engine.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Started working on the blower again, I resolved the new throttle cable sleeve sliping at the hand throttle. Replaced the plastic ties I was using with metal hose clamps. After the engine is running, you can defintly feel the increased tension on the throttle from the vacuum. Before, this would cause the cable sleeve to move with the throttle motion.

~Bruce
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Hi Patron,

I'm trying to figure out how to remove the blower wheel. As seen in the pictures, the housing is a bit rusty and I was hoping to properly paint this unit. The engine is running like a champ, strong compression, no smoke, starts in 2 pulls. My goal is pull the blower wheel, the trouble is that it has a small hair line crack and I'm trying to figure out how to pull it without putting too much stress on it. Any suggestions? I really like the handling of this unit and would like to get it back to a new like condition.

Thanks,
Bruce


Project so far:
Made new handles.
Repaired throttle.
Replacing wheel hubs.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Success :weightlifter: ... Screwdriver, Break-Free, and Dead Blow Hammer popped the blower wheel off with ease. No rust, just needed something to lossen it up I guess. Started to dissasemble the rest of the engine for preping. A few coats of paint and sanding produced a smooth finish on the starter and aircleaner, those 2 being the worst surface conditions on the engine. If the weather continues to clear up, should have this done in a few weeks.

~Bruce
 
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