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Grasshopper 321d Hydro won't go?

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gusndemboyz

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Earlier this week i noticed my left hydro had a few fan blades missing, after futher investigation i noticed some type of fiber cloth wrapped around the shaft and of coarse it had been sucked in thru the shaft seal and was starting to leak. This is not the first time i have replaced fan side seals due to something on the shaft that has worked it way thru the seal. Any way i removed the pump replaced the seal and fan, i reinstalled the pump and no go. With mower jacked up level the left wheel will make about 3 or 4 revolutions and stop. i have ample fluid level (at 20 bucks a quart), hydro runs smooth but no go. I had done several searchs but have not found anything useful.

Thanks in advance, Gus
 
#2 ·
Is it possible that the wheel motor is cavatating or, put another way, has air in there? After you replaced the seal, did you get all the air out of the system?

You've probably done all that as you have replaced these seals in the past.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I have replaced 2 seals prior on the right pump and had no issues with air in the system. You may be right about the wheel motor cavitaing. The pump was out for 2 days waiting on a seal to arrive. Left pump,right pump different seals. Can not find anything on priming hydro sytem.
 
#6 ·
gusndemboyz said:
i cannot find any thread on process for bleeding hydro system on Grasshopper. In my manual it states that it is a self bleeding system.
Click to expand...
Well, the manual is correct, it is self-bleeding---to a point! All the air bubbles in the hoses will try to move up and out of the oil. The problem is that there is air trapped inside the pump(s) and wheel motors too.

What you need to do is start your Grasshopper up, let it idle for several minutes to help purge the pumps of air in the oil, then start moving the machine, with full throttle, back and forth several feet in each direction for several minutes, or longer, if you have the time. It may feel "jerky" at first, as this is the oil cavitating at the wheel motors.

If there is no more damage to the hydraulic system then this should be the cure.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I let it idle for 15 minutes, with unit still jacked up left wheel made 2 revolutions and then stopped. I can free spin wheel a few turns before i feel any resistance and then it will get harder and harder until i can't turn it anymore, like it normally is. Then i run it and it spins a few revolutions and stops, also it has no power when turning i can stop it with my hand. i am starting to think more along the lines of a bad pump.
 
#10 ·
You could have burned the pump up depending on how long the fins were missing from the fan. Only a flow test will determine weather a pump is bad or not. Because of the price of the hydro oil, you should use 30 weight during that procedure, then change the fluid and filter to run on grasshopper fluid.
 
#12 ·
I'm willing to bet that you didn't mark the little eye shaped cast piece when you took it off. It goes on a certain way (over top of the charge pump which is a little gear, which goes over top a little ball and spring.). If you put the charge pump cover on 180 degrees from where it should be, you will get no flow.
 
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gusndemboyz
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