I have a potential customer who has a large yard 35K and as many mole tunnels all throughout it. How do you estimate mole control and what is the best product to use?
Mole control
Athletic field
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I have a potential customer who has a large yard 35K and as many mole tunnels all throughout it. How do you estimate mole control and what is the best product to use?
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Product is easy. Talpirid. Try to get hold of the training DVD if you're not familiar with it.
Estimating is tough, I've always found it to be a crapshoot. It's easy when you've only got one or two easy-to-identify tunnel systems. When it's more complex I try to take my time and try to identify and separate all the different tunnel systems, and use the right number of baits per system. Don't underbid. Understand that to do it right you've got at least 3 visits to do. My minimum charge for moles last season was $100, and that's for a regular maintenance customer whose home I drive past every day. I've charged as much as $400 for a little larger property (22k).
Hope this helps.
Estimating is tough, I've always found it to be a crapshoot. It's easy when you've only got one or two easy-to-identify tunnel systems. When it's more complex I try to take my time and try to identify and separate all the different tunnel systems, and use the right number of baits per system. Don't underbid. Understand that to do it right you've got at least 3 visits to do. My minimum charge for moles last season was $100, and that's for a regular maintenance customer whose home I drive past every day. I've charged as much as $400 for a little larger property (22k).
Hope this helps.
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I have been using Talpirid for a while and have not seen results. Actually the other day I walked around the yard and all of the Talpirid was pushed up out of the ground. I normally have good luck catching the little bastards but I think I got a smart one this year. He always digs when Im gone, I have only seen it digging one time this year and it was right next to the patio so I couldnt smack it and dig it up.
Even with medical type gloves? If you can't touch it, what do you touch it with?
Large yard! LOL Mine is now larger then that...Hehe
But
I have used Talpirid and the spike mole traps...both work and need to be used correctly and find the main tunnels.
Price is your call on what the area will take...
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I have had this happen before. If the weather is wierd OR you are getting a lot of rain (hence a lot of worm activity up top) they don't take the bait as well.
I have found that Talparid works best when a tick on the dry side as they don't have as much food supply and take the bait better.
Talparid is fool proof if used correctly. It has become a major player in the services we offer. Last year we did a little over 80 jobs and this year we will be close to that again.
SERIOUS $$$$$$ with very little cost involved!
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I've had very much succes with the traps this year.
Have always had issues and tried everything that could be thought of then I found this:
Found the Victor scissors Out-o-sight traps on e-bay half prices and its a one time charge for the traps, use over and over.
Have always had issues and tried everything that could be thought of then I found this:
http://www.themoleman.com/control.htm
Found the Victor scissors Out-o-sight traps on e-bay half prices and its a one time charge for the traps, use over and over.
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Traps work but they require a lot of work; many people do dont want to deal with the dead moles once caught. Also, how many does one want to buy, maintain, store, or haul from job to job if done commercially? That is unimportant-if you like them use them.
Many would argue with this guy's premise that nothing has changed in the last 100 years and that there are no chemical solutions to a mole problem. Talpirid is a very effective "chemical solution."
Many would argue with this guy's premise that nothing has changed in the last 100 years and that there are no chemical solutions to a mole problem. Talpirid is a very effective "chemical solution."
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If the ground is TOO wet or TOO dry...traps suck!
Also...I can "over bait" and increase my chances of getting the little guys.
If I am on a larger job...I can use up to 20 worms.
I wouldn't want to set 20 traps.
Plus...I can always say "I think I got him"...but if you DON'T get him with a trap you know you didn't get him.
I guarantee my mole control 100% for up to 5 days after treatment.
Making a ton of money on it too!
Also...I can "over bait" and increase my chances of getting the little guys.
If I am on a larger job...I can use up to 20 worms.
I wouldn't want to set 20 traps.
Plus...I can always say "I think I got him"...but if you DON'T get him with a trap you know you didn't get him.
I guarantee my mole control 100% for up to 5 days after treatment.
Making a ton of money on it too!
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A customer of mine had great success using Ex Lax regular strength chocolate pieces. They eat it, get a major prolonged case of the runs which causes de-hydration and death. It sounds goofy, but if all else fails, give it a try.
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I can see your point on hauling from job to job foreplease, at the same time I've tried ALL the products on the market
I'm bald because I needed hair to put in the runs :laugh:
I'm joking but I am going bald, LOL.
anyhow, after pulling out all the stops, trying the poision worms didn't help either and see the quote below.
5 days is just not enough rc. One thing I have become is an expert in mole control and this year the suckers knew I was serious :drinkup:
Same link as from my last post, here's why 5 days is not enough and why I thought everything I tried worked, even put out 32-0-0 around the perimeter of the property and thought it worked, then they came back.
One more thing I should add, I think the little guys have a six sence, can sence danger much like a dog. One the traps were in the ground they knew it was there and as long as you have the trap set in an active run and set right they don't come around it. They leave and leave for good.
I've only caught one mole in the traps, the rest I put out and they stayed in the same spot for sometimes over 6 weeks before I took them up without ever having been tripped or seen any new mole activity.
Also, it was someone here who made me aware of these traps and they were right, they work.
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kirk,
5 days is more then enough! It only takes 24 hours after the Talparid is injested. I actually go back 1-2 days after baiting to confirm bait was taken! WORKS AWESOME!!!!!
I use a 3 trip process which is
1) mark
2) bait
3) follow-up (to see if bait is taken)
I think this is my 4th year...and I have probably completed over 300+ mole jobs.
TRUST ME!!!!
5 days is more then enough! It only takes 24 hours after the Talparid is injested. I actually go back 1-2 days after baiting to confirm bait was taken! WORKS AWESOME!!!!!
I use a 3 trip process which is
1) mark
2) bait
3) follow-up (to see if bait is taken)
I think this is my 4th year...and I have probably completed over 300+ mole jobs.
TRUST ME!!!!
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Thats the poison worms right?
I ask because I've tried so many things I don't remember them all.
If its what I'm thinking my moles snuffed their noses up to it and wouldn't even look at it :laugh:
Speaking of looking is it true moles can't see?
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If I may ask: do you chart or somehow identify the exact spots you baited? Do you sell customers only full boxes as psrt of a minimum chagre? If so, do you turn over partial boxes to the customer for "next time" or retain them as inventory. I am interested in the mechanics of how doing this for other people could work. There are times around here when places get moles and become overrun with them.
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Visit my web under mole control
www.lawn-plus.com
I charge by the job!
On my first initial visit I use a poly rod (about 4 ft long) and poke holes in the tunnels...and as I go I have an extended paint marker and mark a line by each hole. I do this about every 5 ft.
My next visit I walk the area and see what holes have been plugged. This is where experience comes in...so you can bait as little as possible and still get him. After I see the "good areas" to bait I then install the bait and CIRCLE the holes so I know where to look on my next visit.
Final visit is to check the circles to see if it was taken. Most of the time atleast several worms are taken BUT it only takes one!!!!!
I somtimes then pull the un-eaten worms out and use them on another job!
The customer has 5 days after my last visit to call me back for the 100% (which I have a contract wrote up on). If they call me back after that...it is considered a re-infestation.
I would say my all back rate is less then 5%. Sometime I DO miss them on the first try!
If it is a simple job I may use 2 worms...and if it is a big job I may use 30 worms.
The customer doesn't know how much bait I use and I don't want them to.
I charge a flat rate of $120 on simpler jobs...and if it is a big job it can get well over $200 and on really large jobs it runs much more!
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You have the confidence to say you are an "expert" in mole control...and they ASK this:
"Speaking of looking is it true moles can't see? "
No they are can't see...they are blind!
Visit my website and you will learn all you need to know about moles.
They are very easy to kill when using Talparid...you just need to know how to use it and understand the product!
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Thank you, Rod, for such a thorough answer. I have become good at eliminating moles with the Talpirid but it has always been as part of a larger overall job - usually just added to my time and materials. As you can imagine, not much "time" gets added when you're already on site for 2-8 weeks - and I don't mind that, it is fair to me and them, where the goal is more than just getting rid of moles.
You answered a couple of key questions for me that will help me for those times when I may offer this as a standalone service. I appreciate your generosity.
You answered a couple of key questions for me that will help me for those times when I may offer this as a standalone service. I appreciate your generosity.
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Thanks for the info RC
I will defiantly give Talparid another try as I do have a bit more experience now (from knowing where to put the traps) then I did last time I used Talparid worms.
Didn't mean to sound rude in the upper post, think were both thinking alike, but I'm probably put off by the use of Talparid as I was unsuccessful in the past and probably due to the lack of experience at that time.
From your site, pretty much just reworded from the site I posted and when I read this I also included Talparid as being part of the "chemicals" that are unsuccessful.
I will defiantly give Talparid another try as I do have a bit more experience now (from knowing where to put the traps) then I did last time I used Talparid worms.
Didn't mean to sound rude in the upper post, think were both thinking alike, but I'm probably put off by the use of Talparid as I was unsuccessful in the past and probably due to the lack of experience at that time.
From your site, pretty much just reworded from the site I posted and when I read this I also included Talparid as being part of the "chemicals" that are unsuccessful.
and the castor oil!! My word that was the biggest joke I tried $55 just wasted.
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