Anyone with a quick instruction on how to adjust O/H valves on a 5.5 Honda GX engine. Is it same for a Briggs ? I have done a briggs in the past.
Thanks,
XB 2002
Thanks,
XB 2002
Honda GX160 Valve Adjustment
XB 2002
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
hello ...sorry for dragging up an old thread...but i just aquired a used honda eb 2500 generator with a gx 160 on it... i was going over it,cleaning it up and what not...i popped the valve cover off at at tdc the rocker arms seem very loose..i can wiggle them side to side(not in the valve/pushrod direction but 90 degrees on the mounting stud) quite a bit im going to check the valve clearance today but is that normal if out of adjustment...or could something be badly worn?...it starts right up first "lazy pull" and runs well...so i cant imagine they are "way out of adj.....thanks in advance!
cool thank you...i checked the clearances.. exhaust was spot on intake slightly out of spec so i adjusted it....and i also pulled out the plug to replace only to find the previous owner had appearanly went to walmart and grabbed a champion mower plug..the short one..cj14?...:hammerhead: hahaha could this have caused any damage to the motor?
good to hear it wouldnt have caused a problem....thanks yes thats what i replaced it with....and the final issue i found was the gfci duplex works in that it supplies power..but when hitting the test button it doesnt trip out..
so i was looking into replacing it but honda wants over $100 for it...looking at it.. it appears to me to just be a 20a gfci duplex recepticle that i can buy at home depot for $15 ...do you know if it is really a special item i need to buy from honda?..the honda dealer told me when i asked the same question...."oh yeah you definately need to used the honda replacement one...if you dont youre going to loose power...as well as the generator will be alot louder"....i could be wrong but i dont see how either is possible as long as i use a commercial grade 20a gfci outlet...can you confirm eith way on this?...thanks so much for all your help!!:drinkup:
so i was looking into replacing it but honda wants over $100 for it...looking at it.. it appears to me to just be a 20a gfci duplex recepticle that i can buy at home depot for $15 ...do you know if it is really a special item i need to buy from honda?..the honda dealer told me when i asked the same question...."oh yeah you definately need to used the honda replacement one...if you dont youre going to loose power...as well as the generator will be alot louder"....i could be wrong but i dont see how either is possible as long as i use a commercial grade 20a gfci outlet...can you confirm eith way on this?...thanks so much for all your help!!:drinkup:
Joined
·
583 Posts
OkAY i AM A LITTLE CONFUSED ON THIS QUESTION.
It has nothing to do with a gas engine.
So maybe this is a generator that has a gfci to protect the load circuits on the outlets?
A GFCI is a ground fault circuit interrupter.
So the first question is the gfci a 240 volt device or a 120 volt device.
But to be more specific is it a 240/120 device or is it a straight 120 or straight 240 device. There is a big deference.
Maybe you need to state the model number and what this machine is.
Joined
·
12,480 Posts
Ruben, This is a Honda EB2500 Generator, It puts out 120 only no 240.
Here's a EB2500 control panel, It may not be correct since the spec and serial numbers were not posted but gives a idea of the set-up;
![Image]()
It's got a 120 V twist lock receptacle #10 and the gfci receptacle #9.
To answer the question of paying close to 100 bux for a Honda receptacle, I wouldn't.
I have replaced regular non gfci receptacles in Homelite and other brand gen-sets in the past with household receptacles costing less than 75 cent but not a Honda.
What you have to watch for is the break-off legs between the wire lug/screws on the receptacle that tie those two lugs/screws together on each side. Look at the old receptacle and see which legs are broke off and break off the same legs on the new receptacle.
If a house gfci receptacle from the Depot will physically fit in the control panel there no reason to pay Honda 100 bux for one.
Here's a EB2500 control panel, It may not be correct since the spec and serial numbers were not posted but gives a idea of the set-up;
It's got a 120 V twist lock receptacle #10 and the gfci receptacle #9.
To answer the question of paying close to 100 bux for a Honda receptacle, I wouldn't.
I have replaced regular non gfci receptacles in Homelite and other brand gen-sets in the past with household receptacles costing less than 75 cent but not a Honda.
What you have to watch for is the break-off legs between the wire lug/screws on the receptacle that tie those two lugs/screws together on each side. Look at the old receptacle and see which legs are broke off and break off the same legs on the new receptacle.
If a house gfci receptacle from the Depot will physically fit in the control panel there no reason to pay Honda 100 bux for one.
Joined
·
583 Posts
When you say does not trip out.
Can mean that you have the line and load connections mixed.
The hot and neutral should be on the line connections from the generator.
And the hot and neutral should be on the load connections going to the outlets.
Just so you know if you bought the cheap gfci outlet at say home depot it is only rated for 15amps so if your unit is over 1800 watts it will burn up soon if it has not already.
If you bought a 20amp gfci then it would be rated at only 2400 watts.
Even still both units are only rated at 80% of what the label says if you run for 3 hours or more.
Joined
·
12,480 Posts
I believe he's speaking of the "Test" button in the center of the outlet, I have two of these in my house. I turn on my razor then push the "Test" button and it shuts off until I release the button......
Joined
·
583 Posts
Well a gfci test button will trip without turning off power if it is wired incorrectly.
If the test button will not trip at all two issues can be the culprit.
Either the gfci is defective. Or there is not a ground connection to the device.
Since a gfci test actually checks for current to ground verses the neutral.
The reason being if the current on the hot is not the same on the neutral then it must be going somewhere else.
So there are ct's built in the device to measure the differential. When the limits are exceeded the device trips.
You can simulate this with a volt tester. by going hot to neutral and it will not trip under most conditions.
But going from hot to ground it will trip if working correctly and the test meter is not a high impedance meter.
IMO only I think the only reason the device is there is due to idiots that have been electrocuted due to using faulty cords or drills and using them standing in water while using them.
Just so you know been a licensed electrical journeyman for 30+ years , a electrical master for 20+ years. And a licensed electrical inspector for 18 years.
And I will say that all gfi units are not the same.
Some are for ground fault equipment protection and some are for ground fault personnel protection.
If the test button will not trip at all two issues can be the culprit.
Either the gfci is defective. Or there is not a ground connection to the device.
Since a gfci test actually checks for current to ground verses the neutral.
The reason being if the current on the hot is not the same on the neutral then it must be going somewhere else.
So there are ct's built in the device to measure the differential. When the limits are exceeded the device trips.
You can simulate this with a volt tester. by going hot to neutral and it will not trip under most conditions.
But going from hot to ground it will trip if working correctly and the test meter is not a high impedance meter.
IMO only I think the only reason the device is there is due to idiots that have been electrocuted due to using faulty cords or drills and using them standing in water while using them.
Just so you know been a licensed electrical journeyman for 30+ years , a electrical master for 20+ years. And a licensed electrical inspector for 18 years.
And I will say that all gfi units are not the same.
Some are for ground fault equipment protection and some are for ground fault personnel protection.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
