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Looking to get into seal coating, know the basics but looking for more info

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jason6586

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am looking into getting into the seal coating business as a side job "for starters". I have read many posts about spray units, equipment and such. I have decided to build my own and use 2-275 totes so i will have a 550 gal cap. I am in northern WI, does anyone know what type of sealer would be the best to use in my location with the set-up i will be building? Also being that i will not have an agitator and just a circulation system are there sealers that work better than others. I am also concerned on clean-up and storage, do you guys wash your spray rig after every job and how long can sealer sit in the tanks? I have also read on here about a trigger wand over the ball valve, I would think the trigger want would be much easier to control. Like i said i am just in the beginning stages and want to get it right. I have owned 2 businesses before and pride myself on satisfaction and quality. I want to charge a "fair" going rate and not cut corners like many of the fly by nighters. Also with my spray unit will i need to manually "squeege" on sealer around the edges or can the whole works get sprayed with the proper equipment and customer property protection for over spray.
 
#2 ·
You can't build a really professional sealcoat machine with "totes". :nono:
The problem is recirculation with a trash pump cannot adequately mix additives or sand evenly throughout the sealer. There's just no way to get a good mix.
If you are going to use a pre-mix sealer from a distributor that adds sand to the sealer before you buy it it will work but it still won't have the maximum performance and you are then paying the "sealer price" per gallon for the added water the distributor had to use to get a consistency where they can mix in the sand... expensive way to pay for water and sand.

Getting into sealcoating in this economy is really tough so you'll need good sales skills and probably your customer base from landscape work. But before you go spending a lot to make a "rig" that really won't do the best job look in a magazine called Pave Market-subscriptions are free and there's TONS of used sealcoating rigs for sale. You can probably get a 5 year old rig in good shape for what you would spend building one that wouldn't work as well.
Sealcoaters who got in in the easy times 2-3 years ago without great marketing & sales skills have been going under in droves and the market is flooded with used equipment driving prices down. Of course new equipment can be had at bargain prices because they aren't selling hardly any new rigs with all the good used ones out there.

PaverMarket is a free magazine just classifieds like your local "auto trader" or such but national. There's also a lot of used equipment in the free classifieds at the NPCA site on their forum and there's also links to PaverMarket in one of their forum's ads.
I'd suggest doing some shopping. With a professional rig with hydraulic agitation you can buy totally concentrated sealer and add your own additives and water so your materials are not only better but a lot cheaper in the long run.
You'll also find a lot of info about sealcoating in their forum that are open to the public (they have public & member's forums) a lot of newbies have probably asked the same questions you have if you do a search and set it to "all dates" in the sealcoating forum there.

But there's really no sense in building your own right now. It's not as good as a couple of months back when there were pages & pages of machines being "dumped" but there's still a lot of good used machines out there as big companies are downsizing and "newbies" can'[t make the payments & such. I have seen 2 or 3 GREAT rigs-loaded out name-brand for "take up payments".
 
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#3 ·
I agree, their is a lot of company out there that specialize in seal coating system, they make very reliable products.

It's to bad you are not where I live, I could give you some great contacts on where to buy the equipment and the sealer.

As for me, I can keep my sealer in my tank for quiet a while, as long as its not open to air, it will not dry. And to clean my system? very tricky, it is almost impossible for me to keep my equipment dirty, you will always find sealant on your tank, when you fill your tank. Theirs always some that will spill, then you have your hose that will be dragging on the fresh seal driveway, so now your hose is dirty, then when you reel it up, then your reel is dirty.

I wait for when I have an afternoon not so busy, then I take my scrapper and some varsol or paint thinner and clean it up!

But anyways, just like SurfaceMax said, with the economy now it is very tricky, you must learn to be a good sales man, but also the work speaks a lot for you. I do a lot of door to door, the hardest is to get the 1st customer, but after that, people see your quality work and your chance of getting a 2nd customer is much higher. As long as you say your local, you are here to stay for ever, so you stand by your work since its your reputation, they will understand that more then fly by nights.
 
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#4 ·
Hello Jason my name is Ricky im from Connectcicut. I have been in business for about 9 years now. I started out in my half ton dodge pick up going door to door using buckets of sealer from home depot & a squeegee. I have learned a thing or two about this business.
#1 DO NOT USE A TOTE: they can not be cleaned & you can not mix the sealer plus the plastic valve gets stuck.

#2 YOU DO NOT NEED 500 GALLONS: If you are only doing residential all you would need is 100 gallon to 300 gallon tank just to start off.

#3 TRASH PUMPS: Trash pumps are O.K. they get the job done but they wearout fast depending on the one you get. But you said that perfection is what you do & if thats the case, then you need a dual diaphram pump 1inch or 1inch and a 1/2 & if you get a diaphram then you need a air compressor (Whole differant story) But being that you are doing residential you can just about get by with a trash pump (I used a few trash pumps & i got by OK but i seen a diaphram & i changed because i do BIG Commercail jobs)

#4 HOW TO's: you have to edge around things that you don't want to get sealer on like concrete, garage doors, paver stones, siding & things like that, some times people don't like when it gets on their grass but realy it does not hurt the grass just tell them it grows out

I can tell you more but i have to go right now. I have things to take care of, But i will leave you with this

I can sell you a
300 gallon sealcoating tank with a hand agitation system with a 16inch manhole,
50ft hose,
6.5 hp 2inch trash pump,
fittings & connections,
Spray wand & spray tips,
All the valves.
All of this is BRAND NEW NEVER USED ready to go just add SEALER
Your cost $1,550.00 + Shipping
 
#6 ·
Ive never used a plastic tote for sealing driveways. I have used 55 gallon barrels and as hard as it is to mix sealer in barrel i wouldnt dare want to try to mix it in a tote. I rememebr it would take a good fifteen minutes of constant stiring to re-mix it in a barrel. So i cant imagine the difficulty involved in attempting to mix sealer in a plastic tote. If im not mistaked the plastic totes have a small opening in the top which would make it very difficult to properly mix.
 
#7 ·
Asphalt Kid said:
Hello Jason my name is Ricky im from Connectcicut. I have been in business for about 9 years now. I started out in my half ton dodge pick up going door to door using buckets of sealer from home depot & a squeegee. I have learned a thing or two about this business.
#1 DO NOT USE A TOTE: they can not be cleaned & you can not mix the sealer plus the plastic valve gets stuck.

#2 YOU DO NOT NEED 500 GALLONS: If you are only doing residential all you would need is 100 gallon to 300 gallon tank just to start off.

#3 TRASH PUMPS: Trash pumps are O.K. they get the job done but they wearout fast depending on the one you get. But you said that perfection is what you do & if thats the case, then you need a dual diaphram pump 1inch or 1inch and a 1/2 & if you get a diaphram then you need a air compressor (Whole differant story) But being that you are doing residential you can just about get by with a trash pump (I used a few trash pumps & i got by OK but i seen a diaphram & i changed because i do BIG Commercail jobs)

#4 HOW TO's: you have to edge around things that you don't want to get sealer on like concrete, garage doors, paver stones, siding & things like that, some times people don't like when it gets on their grass but realy it does not hurt the grass just tell them it grows out

I can tell you more but i have to go right now. I have things to take care of, But i will leave you with this

I can sell you a
300 gallon sealcoating tank with a hand agitation system with a 16inch manhole,
50ft hose,
6.5 hp 2inch trash pump,
fittings & connections,
Spray wand & spray tips,
All the valves.
All of this is BRAND NEW NEVER USED ready to go just add SEALER
Your cost $1,550.00 + Shipping
Click to expand...
do you have any pics for this rig you can sell??
 
#8 ·
I want to upgrade and found a sealcoating machine with a 450 gal tank, hand agitation. It has a 2" wilden diaphragm pump, and a new 8 gal hitachi air compressor on it 5.5 hp honda engine. Will the compressor run the pump ok, is there enough volume? I know the psi is ok (145) I plan on putting some sort of power agitation on it. any information would be helpful. Thanks
 
#9 ·
CntrlSealing&PropertyCare

You need to make sure the air compressor has at least 11 cfm or more. I am using a Jenny air compressor with 8.2cfm & it works but not like it should.

I am wasting sealer & i am getting two streams out of my wand. A stream of sealer on top of the spray fan & one on the bottom & mist in the middle.
& after the sealer dries you can see wave patterns (Looks very bad)

At first i thought it was the tip. Then i found out my compressor was not strong enough.

P.s. How much is this tank & what do you get with it if you don't mind me asking?
 
#10 ·
It is a 450 gal round steel tank, sweep agitation, he wants $2500 for the rig. He said he has other pumps, he has a 1.5" wilden pump too. I assume they will operate at lower cfm? How do the smaller pumps perform as opposed to the 2"? I want to be able to apply the sealer to manufacturer specs. I have used a trash pump before and wasn't really impressed, I mean it sprayed..... but i want to do it right.
 
#11 ·
i see you guys dont like the plastic totes but the people selling them say it recirculates like a dishwasher. the pump pulls from the bottom then sends it to the top. why wouldnt this work? im looking to start up and cost is a issue, not knowing what the business will bring. so i can get the totes for free and either build or buy a pump setup from one of the companies that sell the tote system they will sell the system without the tote for 800. i can take the tote and leave it in my pickup and not have to buy a trailer. tell me what you guys think. thanks
 
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#12 ·
Why i do not like totes even if they are FREE:nono:

Because you can not clean them on the inside & in this business you have to clean out your tank every year so no dried up sealer goes through your pump system & clogs every thing.

Because you do not get a good mix with just a pump. You need a hand mixer because you get build up on the sides of the tank & that will peel off & it will cause blockages & clogs. Don't try to put a stick in there & mix!

Because the plastic valve at the bottom of the tank gets stuck & it can crack very easy & if it happends while you have sealer in the tank OMG whatta mess! & waste of money!

Because it makes you look unprofessional & Ungly.

P.s. These are 272 gallons and sealer wieghs 11 lbs per gallon are you sure you want to put that much wieght in your truck. You need a 1-ton for this.

I am buying a tank from a local guy here in Connecticut if you want i can give you his info & you can talk to him. He is very very resonable and a lot cheaper then every one else. He has plastic horizontal tanks & steel tanks with HAND AGITATION he even sells tanks with pumps & attachments ready to go just add sealer & spray! He even has TRUCK UNITS. Mail me if you are interestes asphaltservice@hotmail.com
 
#13 ·
@ asphalt kid, what is the best product or method to clean out your tank at the end of the season?
 
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#14 ·
Well the only way i know how to clean out a sealcoating tank is to get in side the tank & scrap the sides & bottom of the tank. Use what ever works best for you.

I myself never got inside a tank before, I paid someone to clean it for me. & the best time to clean out your tank is when it's cold out side or when the sealer is solid not at a liquide state (So i was told)
 
#15 ·
Lol well that would be really tricky to do since the tank is 2X2X4 with a 4" opening, so it would be almost impossible lol. Maybe clean it up with varsol and let your pump and engine run? Don't know how varsol will affect the pump tho.
 
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#16 ·
I use totes just for storage. Enough in my barn to hold 6000 gallons. As I pump the totes into my seal rig I clean them out with a small power washer. Circulate the tank for about 10 min, then I use the water for mixing my sealer. If you have a good basket strainer it is no problem at all. My 6000 gal storage capability cost me $1650.00 and i do not have a problem with it. and it didn't cost me $20,000 for the same storage capability. Plus if I end up needing more sealer toward the end of the year. I order another 6000 gal. I just store it in my heated barn. much easier to move around 275 gal totes for this purpose rather than moving a 6000 gal tank out of the weather. sealer actually has a 3 year shelf life when packaged this way. not that you would ever have the sealer that long. but start up is alot easier in the spring when you already have the sealer on hand. I agree though that it would be very difficult to use totes in the back of a truck for the purpose of sealing driveways. I have been using the same totes for my sealer storage for 7 years now and I am finally going to have to replace 4 of them and probably a few more next year. I like the way I do this. I will never lose alot of sealer due to a early cold snap like my competition did a few years back. 2000 gal gone!:cool2:
 
#17 ·
Thinking of setting my son up in the sealcoating business, him and one other person. Does anyone have any idea what sort of vehicle I should use to tow a 225 gal sprayer plus melter. I spoke to someone a DOT he stated that in order to avoid the stricter regs I have to keep it under 10000lbs , does that include the weight of the truck and tailer or what? Also any idea what disability and business insurance costs are plus.. whats better sole proprietorship or LLC? Any information would be greatly appreciated.
 
#18 ·
Very old thread.. You can look around here there is a bunch of info out there. That gross number would be trailer and truck. If your really going to set up a business for your kid, Do it right and get a flat bed/stake truck and mount it all on that. Make sure you get diaphragm pump and air compressor rig.
Call your local insurance agent it varies so much its crazy. I pay 800 a year that's for general liability, but you need commercial car insurance its illegal to do business in personal vehicles. Also with there being a partner situation your going to need workers comp. Lastly if you have all this invested why in the world would you risk it all PLUS your personal assets if they **** up ??? Make sure you understand fully what you have to risk when doing businesses.
With a LLC the only thing that can be sued is the business.
Good luck I hope they appreciate what your doing for them!
 
#19 ·
Thank you for your response. I wouldn't be personally involved in any aspect of the business, once it is up and running,{I hope} except for the loan. With that being said, after further research and talking to my accountant and attorney in NY the LLC is a better way to go. With what you are recommending the 10000 lb pound weight limit would be breached.So another call to the DOT guy in Albany to see what we are looking at.My son does appreciate this.I did suggest that he take a business course, so he can understand all the intricacies he is going to have to deal with. I have read this entire site, and it has been quite an education. Seems like its highly competitive, and a tough way to make a buck.
 
#20 ·
1000 percent LLC. I only say a truck mount because it's all there and you don't have to pay the extra insurance on the trailer. If you need a personal and commercial vehicle insurance goes WAY up and you need that trailer.
This industry is very saturated. Actually ALL property maintenance is.
That's awesome your helping him out. I would skip the college and invest in extra equipment/advertising. That's just my .02 cents but I feel hands on is the only way.

It sounds horrible but id say if your the only investor to let go of the other guy.
help out your kid but there's NOT going to be a profit to split the first year. Use him as a hired hand if you get a decent lot and need help. Keep at it and lay down good work you'll get businesses going sooner or later.
 
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