anyone coming across this yet. it seems the extension office is claiming all damage is from this fungus.
joe
joe
take all root rot
bug-guy
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Joined
Ā·
14,054 Posts
bug guy
I had one case many years ago and used Cleary 3336 to cure it. I love to say the name of the microbal that cause Take All, Gaeumannomyces graminis graminis or Ggg.
Joined
Ā·
6,797 Posts
Ran across a rare fungal/root rot problem up here a few years back and a couple of applications of Consan worked for my situation.
Joined
Ā·
11,967 Posts
Eagle is a very good product for this. Be careful of it at higher temperatures. It is still a DMI fungicide with reduced, but still present growth inhibition properties. Insignia or Heritage are also good products that are not DMI.
Joined
Ā·
3,768 Posts
For us here in Texas we have been hit with this the last couple years, but before that it happened very seldom. It is suppost to be from our soil PH rising. They are telling us to spread Peat Moss at a 3 or 4 cubic feet per K. Beleive it or not it works pretty darn good. The only thing the peat is for is the acid in it. Apperently the take all fungus cannot survive in Ph below 6.7 so the peat on the Stolons watered in will lower the Ph in the fungus zone and kill it.
It's most important to incoporate BMP dealing with TARR.
Fungicides have limited effect when the outbreak is fully established. That being said, Cleary's 3336 and Eagle produce results when the outbreak is just beginning.
Peat Moss is effective because it lowers the soil pH. But also use acidifying fertilizers - ammonium sulfate instead of urea - and be sure to get plenty of potassium down. And fertilizers that contain manganese are very beneficial, as TARR inhibits manganese uptake.
But most importantly, manage your irrigation cycling properly.
Fungicides have limited effect when the outbreak is fully established. That being said, Cleary's 3336 and Eagle produce results when the outbreak is just beginning.
Peat Moss is effective because it lowers the soil pH. But also use acidifying fertilizers - ammonium sulfate instead of urea - and be sure to get plenty of potassium down. And fertilizers that contain manganese are very beneficial, as TARR inhibits manganese uptake.
But most importantly, manage your irrigation cycling properly.
Joined
Ā·
4,263 Posts
By chance, were these Palmetto St. Augustine?
I have one lawn with this condition. Once I learned what it was and how to treat it I have kept it under control. I use the guidelines from this http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/FSA-7560.pdf
I have used Cleary & Eagle as preventatives plus the cultural practices. I haven't actually used any fertilizer on this lawn in the past couple of years and it is one of the best lawns I have. From what I understand you cannot eliminate the disease only try and control it to some degree.
I have used Cleary & Eagle as preventatives plus the cultural practices. I haven't actually used any fertilizer on this lawn in the past couple of years and it is one of the best lawns I have. From what I understand you cannot eliminate the disease only try and control it to some degree.
Joined
Ā·
6,797 Posts
So what are the symptoms that you guys are seeing? Is it just brown dead patches in the lawn that look similar to chemical burn?
Is it also effecting plants in the landscapes?
Just curious as to what you Southern guys are seeing and if it's similar to what I dealt with a few years back.
Is it also effecting plants in the landscapes?
Just curious as to what you Southern guys are seeing and if it's similar to what I dealt with a few years back.
Joined
Ā·
14,054 Posts
White
The Big give away is the visible Mycelium growth on top of the turf in the early morning.
Joined
Ā·
11,967 Posts
I first saw Take All in Hawaii during the early 1990's. One of the big issues was that it was assumed to be another disease such as melting out or dollar spot. The giveaway that something was way wrong was how the grass died in patches and failed to grow back. It hit bermuda and seashore paspalum lawns really hard. That is why many lawns here are either Emerald zoysia dating back to the 1950's or they were redone with El Toro in the 1990's.
Because of shipping and labor costs, peat moss is a very expensive treatment here. I use acidifying fertilizers on soils that are not already acidic. Water soluble iron and manganese is a monthly application for my lawns. I will not use coated urea fertilizers either. I would rather have coated ammonium sulfate if there were such a thing and that granule would have to be the size of sand for my lawns. Here and there, I hear this urban legend that fertilizer feeds diseases. Not in my experience. A lawn stricken by disease is treated with a fungicide drench that also contains ammonium sulfate, potassium nitrate, and soluble micronutrients. Within 14 days of this application, it is normally evident that the lawn is doing much better than before I treated it. A key to whether treatment will even work is irrigation management. There is nothing worse than a lawn growing on clay soil that is irrigated by short cycling the system instead of watering deeply once or twice a week. Paying attention to how a lawn is fertilized and irrigated has meant that I normally see Take All on a newly acquired lawn.
Because of shipping and labor costs, peat moss is a very expensive treatment here. I use acidifying fertilizers on soils that are not already acidic. Water soluble iron and manganese is a monthly application for my lawns. I will not use coated urea fertilizers either. I would rather have coated ammonium sulfate if there were such a thing and that granule would have to be the size of sand for my lawns. Here and there, I hear this urban legend that fertilizer feeds diseases. Not in my experience. A lawn stricken by disease is treated with a fungicide drench that also contains ammonium sulfate, potassium nitrate, and soluble micronutrients. Within 14 days of this application, it is normally evident that the lawn is doing much better than before I treated it. A key to whether treatment will even work is irrigation management. There is nothing worse than a lawn growing on clay soil that is irrigated by short cycling the system instead of watering deeply once or twice a week. Paying attention to how a lawn is fertilized and irrigated has meant that I normally see Take All on a newly acquired lawn.
Joined
Ā·
14,054 Posts
Quiet
Properly fertilized turf also resists Run off and Leaching. This is something we are fight the Tree Huggers and Granola Fruits and Nuts about right now in Florida. Many of our local Government agency have passed No Fertilizer ordinances in their area. The U of Fla has issued a study showing that no fertilizing cause more pollution in our water than too much fertilizer. The theory here is healthy turf filters the water.
Joe, I've been battling this. It may not be a fungus. Look for signs of the army worm. The most telling sign is the final stage of this pest which is the moth (brown/beige size of a quarter). If you see the moth flying out of the bushes or from the grass thatch, when you are spraying, this may be your problem. I use Bifen XTS to treat it. Usually two sprays, five days apart will do it. Sometimes three sprays five days apart.
Joined
Ā·
3,768 Posts
Take All is pretty easy to identify. Along the affected area find a good Stolon that goes from the good area to the bad area. Pull up the Stolon so you get good and bad. The non affected area should look regular with good roots, farther down to the affected area it will get darker and the roots will look kind of yellow and the area it has already killed will have a dead and dry Stolon area with dark and hard roots.
Joined
Ā·
11,967 Posts
Quite true. If you want to control P runoff, soil run off has to be minimized. Best way I know how to do that is to maintain actively growing grass at all times of the year. Even during the rainy season. I cannot imagine doing it by starving the grass at that time. It is my belief that the tree huggers just hate lawns.
I am in an area where it does not rain for months on end. But if and when it does, I would not want to be the one who just spread 200 lb of granules per acre ahead of a storm dropping 4 inches of rain per hour. Therefore I do not ever apply high rates of slow release or 100% soluble. I have seen coated fertilizer wash straight into the storm drain from the lawn during one of those 4 inchers.
Joined
Ā·
14,054 Posts
Green
I didn't mean to hijack this thread but because of the Fruits And Nuts in the Granola crowd, this is a hot subject in Florida. See my thread about House Bill CS/HB Fertilizer. Be sure to read the part where says the state law will negate any local ordinances. I think that one statement should tell you how bad the Tree Huggers have some counties locked up. Of course this still has to pass into law.
Joined
Ā·
11,967 Posts
Ric, this is perfectly relevant to the discussion. One of the reasons why I am not having to spray fungicides on a lawn monthly 12 months out of the year is that my professional judgement is not trumped by a tree hugger with an anti lawn agenda. The same can be said for herbicide usage. I keep lawns thick and green so the need for herbicides are greatly reduced. I could stop spoon feeding, then will need to intensify disease and weed control.
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
