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kluczenk

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi all, this is my first post the forum so thanks in advance! After moving out of the city and to a 1.25 acre house in the suburbs I'm trying to "drink from the firehose" to get up to speed on taking care of the lawn. I went down to my local farm co-op and was sold Quincept for weed control along with some fertilizere to put on after. I've mixed up the Quincept in a handheld sprayer and applied many times over the past few days in spot treatments directly to weeds and crabgrass. The weeds (particularly dandelions) seem to be hit hard by the Quincept and have wilted and died...crabgrass is less affected so far as is any clover I may have sprayed. I may do future applications through a sprayer on the back of my Deere (should I buy or rent a sprayer). I'm hoping that in future years the pelletized controls will be sufficient.

My questions are around what my next steps are:

Do I need to pull the weeds from the lawn by hand?!?!
When can I cut my grass (I read somewhere 3 days after application of Quincept)?
When should I put down the fertilizer (28-3-10) that I have?
 
My questions are around what my next steps are:

Do I need to pull the weeds from the lawn by hand?!?!
When can I cut my grass (I read somewhere 3 days after application of Quincept)?
When should I put down the fertilizer (28-3-10) that I have?[/QUOTE]

You don't have crabgrass (too early), its probably some sort of undesirable grass (tall fescue).

Why pull weeds by hand when you just applied a herbicide???

You "read somewhere 3 days after app to mow"-read the label the chemical came in.

Put down fertilizer whenever you want.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I realize that many folks on this site own or work for lawn care companies but come on guys! I asked some very specific questions and 2 of the 3 responses were recommendations to "hire a local lawn care company". Did I sign up for the wrong forum site to get advice since this site looks to be mostly folks who work for lawn care companies?
 
Most herbicides take up to 2-4 weeks or more for a complete kill on the weeds. Harder ones such as clover and wild violets will take a while. Just be patient. The dandelions are usually what shows injury first.

Temps have also been extremely cool this spring, so most herbicide are going to be even slower in acting.

Don't spray anymore for another couple of weeks. Read you directions for use again and make sure your not over-applying the chemicals. A lot of chemicals have a specific amount that you should only use per season.

Go ahead and throw fertilizer. Don't hand pull any weeds. Buy a pull behind sprayer if you like, but if it's your own yard, a backpack sprayer, though tedious, will do the trick.
 
I too was a "city boy" moved to the West Suburbs and have been happy with my choice. St Charles is a great city with a lot to offer.

Regarding your questions, Quincept is a good choice in your selection of a herbicide for an overall weed killer that will also control/kill crabgrass. So you have half your battle done. As White Gardens said, be patient the cool weather will affect how quickly your going to see results. FYI, I did not read the label on that product but consider how long after it is applied the turf can receive irrigation? It is possible with all the rain we have had around here lately that it may have affected your spot treatments. Although a pain in the butt a quality backpack sprayer should serve you well in taking care of your property.

BTW, Russo's Lawn and Power in Naperville is a good place to get supplies if you need equipment, chemicals or fertilizer.
 
i realize that many folks on this site own or work for lawn care companies but come on guys! I asked some very specific questions and 2 of the 3 responses were recommendations to "hire a local lawn care company". Did i sign up for the wrong forum site to get advice since this site looks to be mostly folks who work for lawn care companies?
wow !...........
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the responses and info guys! I went out to the Blackberry Co-op out in Elburn and the staff there seemed quite nice and rather knowledgable. If that doesn't work out I'll definitely try to folks at Russo's. The weeds and other stuff I sprayed seem to continue dying. A quick follow up question:

If the taller/wider grasses that I have in the lawn are in-fact an undesirable such as Rye instead of crabgrass (as mentioned above) and the Quincept worn't work, what can I do to get rid of it? There are many patches throughout the front yard.

No offense intended by my earlier post, just trying to figure out if I'm on the right site to get the sort of information I'm looking for.
 
The best way to kill those types of ugly grasses is to kill them with Round Up. I would spray it once, go back in 3 weeks and do it again to make sure all the grass got killed. Then either replace with sod or topsoil and seed.

You will have ugly dead yellow spots on your lawn for a month.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Hmmm, that seems like a reasonable approach. I won't be looking forward to the yellow/brown spots but it's worth it for the long haul. On a related note there are also a few sections where the weeds have taken over and now that they're dead/dying from the Quincept there is really only weed remains. Should I just rake up the surface remains and then laydown seed/topsoil or sod in those areas? No need to pull up any of the root system in these areas that have been overtaken by the weeds?
 
you can use what is called a wick applicator w/roundup for the faster growing undesireable grassy weeds. I dont have personal exprerience with using one but you can google it. They are very cheap and you won't have a bunch of dead spots all over your lawn
 
For a wick applicator, a paint roller with a extended handle will work. You can also glue old carpet to a piece of pvc pipe. We once wicked 5+ acres of watermelons infested with kochias and johnson grass, with a 8ft piece of pvc and some old carpet. We tied one end to the bumper of the truck and I carried the other. Wick apps can be very effective if the targeted plant is allowed to grow taller than the area grass or vegetation.
 
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