Felco Pruners

nepatsfan · Jul 16, 2011

White Gardens said:
I need a good general purpose pruning hand shears.

My last pair lasted me 6 years, and I've lost the spring for them and now I need to get another good pair. All the cheapos at the box stores don't work worth a darn.

Nobody around here carries Felco pruners, so I need to order a set. My question is, what do you think is the best over-all model that is good for all around shrub pruning. I'm think a good medium size as my hands are smaller.

Thanks!

This was all I could think of when I saw this:laugh::drinkup:

Good luck..felcos are awesome. I dont buy them anymore because my guys always end up losing them.

vencops · Jul 16, 2011

WG....I was hoping you'd chime in. I've got a cheapo folding saw I like (I use mine to trim branches, while bowhunting). And, it has a curved blade. I agree with what you said about the straight being (likely) better for small stuff.

Thanks again for posting your satisfaction with your purchase. Good to know.

White Gardens · Jul 16, 2011

vencops said:
WG....I was hoping you'd chime in. I've got a cheapo folding saw I like (I use mine to trim branches, while bowhunting). And, it has a curved blade. I agree with what you said about the straight being (likely) better for small stuff.

Thanks again for posting your satisfaction with your purchase. Good to know.

I've bought higher end Stihl folding saws to the cheapo saws and really can't tell much of a difference. What happens is that if I bind the saw I end up bending the flimsy blade.

I will say with the Felco saw the blade seems like it will hold up better against bending. Might need to try a silky next that Diamond mentioned earlier in the thread.

...

Florida Gardener · Jul 16, 2011

vencops said:
WG....I was hoping you'd chime in. I've got a cheapo folding saw I like (I use mine to trim branches, while bowhunting). And, it has a curved blade. I agree with what you said about the straight being (likely) better for small stuff.

Thanks again for posting your satisfaction with your purchase. Good to know.

One word: SILKY. This is the bentley of saws. I own 3: 1 straight, 1 curved, and one monster curved that I can quickly take down certain palms with. They are pricey, but the quality is hands down the best. You can buy replacement blades when you need to but I can tell you I have used my straight saw on dozens of palms and hardwoods and it still cuts excellent. Spend the money and get something that will do the job the right way.
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White Gardens · Jul 16, 2011

diamondlandscaping said:
One word: SILKY. This is the bentley of saws. I own 3: 1 straight, 1 curved, and one monster curved that I can quickly take down certain palms with. They are pricey, but the quality is hands down the best. You can buy replacement blades when you need to but I can tell you I have used my straight saw on dozens of palms and hardwoods and it still cuts excellent. Spend the money and get something that will do the job the right way.
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Ya, sounds like the route I need to go.

I'd like to also find a hand saw with the curve cutting teeth that you can sharpen with a chainsaw file. I've got that style of blade on my Fiskers pole saw and I like that I can sharpen it on the fly and it's aggressive for larger limbs at 15+feet. I would be great for the 4"+ larger limbs when hand pruning.

I sometimes bust out my redmax arborist saw with the 12" bar, but it's too hard to control when making final cuts right above the collar at the trunk or dominate branches.

....

Florida Gardener · Jul 16, 2011

White Gardens said:
Ya, sounds like the route I need to go.

I'd like to also find a hand saw with the curve cutting teeth that you can sharpen with a chainsaw file. I've got that style of blade on my Fiskers pole saw and I like that I can sharpen it on the fly and it's aggressive for larger limbs at 15+feet. I would be great for the 4"+ larger limbs when hand pruning.

I sometimes bust out my redmax arborist saw with the 12" bar, but it's too hard to control when making final cuts right above the collar at the trunk or dominate branches.

....

I called sherril tree and they said you really can't sharpen the silky's bc the teeth are so precise it is best to just get a new blade when you need one. Honestly, I don't use chainsaws anymore for palms or light/moderate hardwood pruning as good pole and handsaws will do the job just fine. I own that same redmax saw that you do. Silky makes phenomenal pole saws as well.
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White Gardens · Jul 16, 2011

diamondlandscaping said:
I own that same redmax saw that you do. Silky makes phenomenal pole saws as well.
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I'll keep that in mind on the pole saw. I just like the power stroke set-up on the fiskers so the rope doesn't get in my way ever.

I went to my stihl dealer that sells echo stuff also. He cross-referenced my bar on the red-max and got me an Oregon/Echo bar for it with the entenzs bar. It has a quick tensioner in the bar which makes it super easy to tighten the chain.

That and it has better oil ports and actually has an oil port at the end of the bar giving a better lubrication system for better chain life.

So ultimately, I've got a red-max saw, echo bar, and stihl chain.

Might want to look into it. It might make any brush/heavy cutting a bit better for you.

...

White Gardens · Jul 16, 2011

diamondlandscaping said:
I called sherril tree and they said you really can't sharpen the silky's bc the teeth are so precise.
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And on that. The one thing I like about the the hook/curved teeth is that it opens the saw kerf better for a smoother action and less blade binding. The pointed teeth seem to jam up on me the worst.

....

Florida Gardener · Jul 16, 2011

White Gardens said:
And on that. The one thing I like about the the hook/curved teeth is that it opens the saw kerf better for a smoother action and less blade binding. The pointed teeth seem to jam up on me the worst.

....

I have had a couple of issues with jamming, but it comes with the territory IMO. Nothing to make me change saws. The only real jamming issues I have are when removing heavy/thick fruit stalks on queen palms that haven't opened up yet. Again, comes with the territory.
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SanDRoots · Jul 17, 2011

First and foremost...DIAMOND, my apologies for not responding to your PM sooner, didn't realize I even had a PM until I was bombarded with emails in regard to the many responses to this thread (good thread, great responses!)! I will hit you back up sooner rather than later, count on it...I have a plethora of information to share with you (you know in what context). My humble opinion in regard to folding/pruning saws is a as follows...if you don't ABUSE it when you USE it, ANY tool can last you longer than expected. I still to this day use a cheapo, with a slightly tweaked blade, on most of my cuts, it was a hand me down from a friend when I first delved into the Landscape business...only God knows how many cuts or years he put on it before me! I live by the saying " a computer is only as smart as the person using it" same goes for all aspects in life, tools included. I own name brand saws in my arsenal as well but always find myself using the saw that is worth "less" by monetary standards because I'm not afraid to damage it (when making gnarly removals, nothing detailed such as ornamental/fruit trees)...guess what? It does not get damaged! Cant fake the front...I love my curved pruning saw and scarab...wish I could use it more often the way a Certified Arborist might utilize one...but I cant complain, it gets enough miles on it!
Great job on opening the gates for such an important topic WG (for me at least)...
Blessings...
SD Roots

White Gardens · Jul 18, 2011

Ya, I was thinking that hand pruning and technique doesn't really get discussed on LS.

Generally speaking, everyone runs for the hedge trimmers for just about everything.

Good hand pruning is almost a lost art along with hand writing.

....

Florida Gardener · Jul 18, 2011

White Gardens said:
Ya, I was thinking that hand pruning and technique doesn't really get discussed on LS.

Generally speaking, everyone runs for the hedge trimmers for just about everything.

Good hand pruning is almost a lost art along with hand writing.

....

90% of my pruning is done by hand. This state is notorious for using hedge trimmers on everything. I agree, it is seldomly used but I will tell you ornamentals on my properties usually have blooms and look very healthy.
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vencops · Jul 18, 2011

Pruning Q!

One of my accounts has a couple american boxwoods they uprooted to make way for a new sidewalk. Long story short, they didn't keep them moist and I think they're toast.

They went ahead and re-planted them on the chance they might make it.

Would it be a good idea to cut the "dead" (looking) branches? I'd pretty much be cutting this thing to about 10" tall.

TOTALLY new to this type stuff.

White Gardens · Jul 18, 2011

vencops said:
Pruning Q!

One of my accounts has a couple american boxwoods they uprooted to make way for a new sidewalk. Long story short, they didn't keep them moist and I think they're toast.

They went ahead and re-planted them on the chance they might make it.

Would it be a good idea to cut the "dead" (looking) branches? I'd pretty much be cutting this thing to about 10" tall.

TOTALLY new to this type stuff.

I always wait until you think they might be established before pruning. Even though 90% of the time on a boxwood, the dead looking branch is probably dead, I still wait just in case.

You might get some new growth at the base of the stem or otherwise. So you run the chance of taking out a grow point.

This fall, I would check them out before any heavy freezes and then take out the dead stems. Even if you have a hole, it will eventually fill back in. But, if you feel that taking them back pretty far, then that's your choice.

Always remember, like in bonsai techniques, Plant hormones in the branches are directly related to the hormones in the roots. By trimming the branches, you shut down root growth. If you trim the roots, you shut down branch growth.

...

vencops · Jul 18, 2011

I just said what I was thinking. I never claimed it was "right"!...lol

Thanks. I'll let 'em be for a bit.

I know these things are pretty hearty (h20 need wise). Do they go dormant, ever? I mean....these are completely brown.

White Gardens · Jul 18, 2011

vencops said:
I just said what I was thinking. I never claimed it was "right"!...lol

Thanks. I'll let 'em be for a bit.

I know these things are pretty hearty (h20 need wise). Do they go dormant, ever? I mean....these are completely brown.

Then they are probably dead....

...

vencops · Jul 19, 2011

S.O.B....lol.

UPS truck brought me a package from Gempler's. Inside was my pruner sheath. No pruners, though! Nice, nice folks in CS. Got them on the way, now.

White Garden.....I was mistaken on the shrub. It's not an American boxwood. And, I'm glad I didn't prune it last week. When I was there last, it was COMPLETELY brown. I looked at it today, and it has a few green spots in the foliage. Dang things (2 of them) might stand a chance! I told them to keep 'em watered.

Would a little ornamental fert. or milorganite help it? I have both here...and can get anything else quickly (naturally). I don't wanna see 'em die if we can help.

Thanks.

Florida Gardener · Jul 20, 2011

vencops said:
S.O.B....lol.

UPS truck brought me a package from Gempler's. Inside was my pruner sheath. No pruners, though! Nice, nice folks in CS. Got them on the way, now.

White Garden.....I was mistaken on the shrub. It's not an American boxwood. And, I'm glad I didn't prune it last week. When I was there last, it was COMPLETELY brown. I looked at it today, and it has a few green spots in the foliage. Dang things (2 of them) might stand a chance! I told them to keep 'em watered.

Would a little ornamental fert. or milorganite help it? I have both here...and can get anything else quickly (naturally). I don't wanna see 'em die if we can help.

Thanks.

Don't use an ornamental feet until about 10-12 weeks. Milorgonite will be ok. Most plants go into shock when transplanted just keep the water going every day.
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Turf Commando · Jul 21, 2011

Nobody seems to understand why felco is the best clippers but you have to know the green industry to appreciate quality..

59298 · Jul 21, 2011

vencops said:
S.O.B....lol.

UPS truck brought me a package from Gempler's. Inside was my pruner sheath. No pruners, though! Nice, nice folks in CS. Got them on the way, now.

White Garden.....I was mistaken on the shrub. It's not an American boxwood. And, I'm glad I didn't prune it last week. When I was there last, it was COMPLETELY brown. I looked at it today, and it has a few green spots in the foliage. Dang things (2 of them) might stand a chance! I told them to keep 'em watered.

Would a little ornamental fert. or milorganite help it? I have both here...and can get anything else quickly (naturally). I don't wanna see 'em die if we can help.

Thanks.

You could spray and water with a light solution of seaweed extract. That should help their recovery.

A key phrase concerning transplants is "first year sleeps, second year creeps, third year leaps". Dont expect too much improvement the first year.

Felco Pruners

nepatsfan

vencops

White Gardens

Florida Gardener

White Gardens

Florida Gardener

White Gardens

White Gardens

Florida Gardener

SanDRoots

White Gardens

Florida Gardener

vencops

White Gardens

vencops

White Gardens

vencops

Florida Gardener

Turf Commando

59298

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