If power is going to a solenoid but no water is flowing through it will it damage the solenoid? Here is the situation, golf course may have a station with 4 heads and each head has a valve with it. In some places it is not important that it is watered. In order to conserve water I may turn off the ball valve that it located before the electric valve but leave the wires connected to the solenoid. I know you are thinking just disconnect the wires but it is not that simple.
Will no water flow damage solenoids?
ArTurf
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If power is going to a solenoid but no water is flowing through it will it damage the solenoid? Here is the situation, golf course may have a station with 4 heads and each head has a valve with it. In some places it is not important that it is watered. In order to conserve water I may turn off the ball valve that it located before the electric valve but leave the wires connected to the solenoid. I know you are thinking just disconnect the wires but it is not that simple.
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Not sure of golf components. But there has always been the debate that solenoids can heat up and either fail or have reduced lifespan if they operate with no water. But seriously, I don't see how a solenoid would be water cooled anyway. They are not surrounded by any water or flowing water. They get a tiny amount of water at the underside with the plunger and the cylinder that the plunger pulls up into, but I don't know how much that really would help it from heating up.
We always tell our customers to turn off the controller for the winter when the system is not in use, but some folks forget and they leave it on all winter long. Valves still work fine in the spring.
We always tell our customers to turn off the controller for the winter when the system is not in use, but some folks forget and they leave it on all winter long. Valves still work fine in the spring.
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I'm of a different school Dana. I see the solenoid as a small magnetic cooling tower and water dissipates the heat. They will short if left on too long without cooling. The insulation around the wire inside is very thin.
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I've never seen research or proof to say yes or no. Just giving my opinion on it. I do tell the customer that they can fail due to this though, just as a precaution. I don't see how there can be enough water making contact with anything on the solenoid to actually cool it. Water doesn't actually get into the solenoid and the coils that I know of.
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I can see that on some valves. Especially the DV. I remember an event long ago in which I was repairing a post type solenoid. I had slid the coil off without shutting down the power. (Pre Rain Master daze) When I reached back for it to reinstall it 15 minutes or so later it had warped.
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i cut a solenoid in half once, they are like any coil. the coil is a single fine wire that is held together with a tar like coating of sorts. stinks like hell when you cut it with a chop saw.
my opine is that the solenoid is cooled through its contact with the valve body, the metal threads conduct the reduced temp of the water which helps to cool it. i have left solenoids connected and powered up for hours without damage but, if the plunger is removed heat builds due to an increased ampereage draw and both the solenoid and the controller are at risk. i have the paperwork to prove this statement but will have to find it. when i do i'll post it.
just remembered, i read that info in the pro-max manual, oh dopey me:hammerhead:
my opine is that the solenoid is cooled through its contact with the valve body, the metal threads conduct the reduced temp of the water which helps to cool it. i have left solenoids connected and powered up for hours without damage but, if the plunger is removed heat builds due to an increased ampereage draw and both the solenoid and the controller are at risk. i have the paperwork to prove this statement but will have to find it. when i do i'll post it.
just remembered, i read that info in the pro-max manual, oh dopey me:hammerhead:
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that's what i said using more words
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Can't you shut off most valve in head gold rotors from the top of the head?
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In the OP's case, he doesn't have valve in heads. At each head, he has a head attached to a swing joint, which is attached to a regular electric valve. And to complicate things even more, when their system was installed, they only ran one station wire to each green apparently, and tied several valves onto it.
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Water cooling=solenoid longevity.
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I don't believe it shortens longevity. The motor of a pump is a gigantic solenoid. No water enters the windings to cool it. It's part of what it's designed to do. What it can't do is increase flow (Kuan-lol). These all handle the current and temps fine. They fail for inherent reasons, not due to temps.
I'm actually of the belief the controller should be left in the on position after winterization. Nothing wrong with allowing the solenoids to exercise throughout the winter, rather than letting them go dormant for 6-7 months.
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I'm actually of the belief the controller should be left in the on position after winterization. Nothing wrong with allowing the solenoids to exercise throughout the winter, rather than letting them go dormant for 6-7 months.
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Sounds more like a controller problem than a solenoid problem.
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I've yet to see any trend or evidence that suggests longer solenoid life from water flow. On the other hand, solenoids are such a minor expense, what difference does it really make?
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Nah, this was mechanical controller days, and some of them energized a master valve the moment they were switched to "manual"
I've replaced lots of Irritrol 2400 solenoids that have melted the threads around the plunger from running without water. Also found lots that have had the plastic face of the plunger melt as well.
So, put me in the solenoids WILL overheat without water camp.
So, put me in the solenoids WILL overheat without water camp.
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I've had solenoids fry when a pump went down and the clock had no clue.
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I was told by wm that their round metal thread solenoids can last a long time without a plunged and water. He explained to me wh but can't recall the specifics. Had to do with the sl showings fault with an add a zone and they told me just to stick a solenoid on the zone inside thecontroller.
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