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Reel won't stop spinning on Mclane (heavy Pics)

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Will P.C.

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Once I turn the mower on, the reel starts spinning w/o engaging the clutch.
My mechanic has tried all sorts of tricks but to no avail. I am tempted to buy a whole bunch of new parts to see if that will help. I paid less than 100 for the mower. I have changed the belt and given it the standard tune up
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#5 ·
it might would appear (without seeing this in person) that whoever put the new belt on has gotten it on the wrong side of the idler (the lower pulley right under the crankshaft) I believe the belt should route on the other side given all the rubber trash which i would surmise is coming from the belt getting ground away on the wrong side.

Also, unless you are using this thing in extreme cold, turn the damned air filter cover around so all the heat from the muffler is not being drawn into your air intake.. engines usually run MUCH better with cooler rather than hotter air unless it is the dead of winter and you are trying to keep the system from icing up..
 
#6 ·
That thing would be sweet for Zoysia!
 
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#8 ·
I'm glad someone's got an eye for the error on this one but along those lines, I'd get some compressed air and clean up all that rubber and grass trash on top beneath the clutch, then get some silicone oil and lube up those chains and clean it up and get everything all nicely lubed, if it has zerks grease them, you want a good running machine, I don't want to see those rusty chains so go do some maintenance to it.
 
#9 ·
I think I know why. My dad had this issue on his simplicity mower. See if this is a mclane oem belt. I would assume the oem belt is made to slip when not engaged. That one looks like its made to grab so it will chuck when not engaged. Before looking into that I'd check to see if the belt is in the right place. On a snow blower the belt would be routed on the inside of both those pully's. If the pully's have a v grove that's for the inside of the belt, if its flat its for the outside.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Herler,
It is at the shop getting a makeover. All those things like greasing, etc will be taken care of. I am going to buy some new chains for it as well

The belt is made by Oregon but it is the correct part. It is brand new.

Going to go down to the shop on Friday and check it out. She should be sharpened and ready to go.

The engine code dates to 1996.

I actually only ended up paying 45 for it. It was originally 90. The guy that sold it to me off CL had no clue how to even operate the thing. So i contacted him about 2 weeks after I bought it and let him know about the belt thing and he agreed to send a check for 45 which was really cool of him. My mechanic told me it looks like this mower has never even been sharpened.

In Atl, you can find Mclanes, Tru Cuts, and Trimmers for very cheap off CL and there is always a good selection. People buy them and then realize it costs about 160 to sharpen them and then they have to cut grass every 4 days. So you can end up finding gently used machines for cheap.

I can literally walk my mower to the golf maintenance shop to get sharpened for dirt cheap.
 
#12 ·
Hello. I had the same problem. If you look at the clutch engaugement rod, it is installed backwards. The long part is supposed to extend past the edge of the belt, and when you dis ingauge the drive, it puts pressure against the belt to stop it from turning, and slackens up the belt so it can slip.
 
#13 ·
Willbill said:
Hello. I had the same problem. If you look at the clutch engaugement rod, it is installed backwards. The long part is supposed to extend past the edge of the belt, and when you dis ingauge the drive, it puts pressure against the belt to stop it from turning, and slackens up the belt so it can slip.
Click to expand...
He’s right, your rod is on upside down easy fix. Mine had the same thing going on.
 
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