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Best Fungicide for Root Rot?

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TurfWerks

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Customer I have is loosing annual color year round to root rot. Changed watering habits, fixed head positions ext. Ext service recommends a soil drench with a good systemic fungicide. Fungicide I was recommended was Subdue.

Any recommendations from you guys? I have Clearys 3336f, and Propiconazol on hand. The price of the Subdue has me looking for cheaper alternatives that work just as well.

Thanks.
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#2 ·
There are generic options available in place of the name brand Subdue. Ask your chemical supplier if they have a generic mefenoxam product available. I know for a fact that Quali-Pro makes one, and they're a pretty common manufacturer for most distributors to be partnered up with.
 
#4 ·
Need to ask: What is your source of potassium in the fertilize? What is the turf? I'm guessing St. Augustine. Controlling TARR will require using Heritage fungicide with two apps about 3 weeks apart. I rotate Heritage with Cleary's and Eagle. These are your systemics and should be watered in. However I mix each with Mancozeb or Daconil which are your folliars and need to be on the blades of grass. Starting before the season with an application will help control TARR. Check the pH...A lower pH will do wonders for St. Augustine. If needed apply some sulfur...Hint to type of fertilizer...Watch the sulfur as it takes sun to activate it. One app of about 5-5lb/K will lower the pH about 1/2% and will take a while (3-4 months) to see any difference. TARR is difficult to get rid of once it has been established. Does it begin to show up with yellow spots and slowly killing the grass? Does the roots actually look black and moldy? There's a smell that I can't describe with TARR. Something that you acquire but make sure. However the rotation of the fungicides is just good practice. Lower the amount of water, use of a sulfur based fertilize will all help.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
RAlmaroad said:
Need to ask: What is your source of potassium in the fertilize? What is the turf? I'm guessing St. Augustine. Controlling TARR will require using Heritage fungicide with two apps about 3 weeks apart. I rotate Heritage with Cleary's and Eagle. These are your systemics and should be watered in. However I mix each with Mancozeb or Daconil which are your folliars and need to be on the blades of grass. Starting before the season with an application will help control TARR. Check the pH...A lower pH will do wonders for St. Augustine. If needed apply some sulfur...Hint to type of fertilizer...Watch the sulfur as it takes sun to activate it. One app of about 5-5lb/K will lower the pH about 1/2% and will take a while (3-4 months) to see any difference. TARR is difficult to get rid of once it has been established. Does it begin to show up with yellow spots and slowly killing the grass? Does the roots actually look black and moldy? There's a smell that I can't describe with TARR. Something that you acquire but make sure. However the rotation of the fungicides is just good practice. Lower the amount of water, use of a sulfur based fertilize will all help.
Click to expand...
Treating raised landscape beds. No turf. Already adjusted watering and fixed a few heads that were over watering.
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#8 ·
And if you want to keep your license just don't let the inspector catch you spraying mancozeb or daconil on any lawns :laugh:

RAlmaroad said:
Need to ask: What is your source of potassium in the fertilize? What is the turf? I'm guessing St. Augustine. Controlling TARR will require using Heritage fungicide with two apps about 3 weeks apart. I rotate Heritage with Cleary's and Eagle. These are your systemics and should be watered in. However I mix each with Mancozeb or Daconil which are your folliars and need to be on the blades of grass. Starting before the season with an application will help control TARR. Check the pH...A lower pH will do wonders for St. Augustine. If needed apply some sulfur...Hint to type of fertilizer...Watch the sulfur as it takes sun to activate it. One app of about 5-5lb/K will lower the pH about 1/2% and will take a while (3-4 months) to see any difference. TARR is difficult to get rid of once it has been established. Does it begin to show up with yellow spots and slowly killing the grass? Does the roots actually look black and moldy? There's a smell that I can't describe with TARR. Something that you acquire but make sure. However the rotation of the fungicides is just good practice. Lower the amount of water, use of a sulfur based fertilize will all help.
Click to expand...
 
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#9 ·
Riggles got it. Pick the best plants for that spot, check water schedule. If irrigation is on same zone as turf, hand water or use plants that like those conditions. Soils play a major factor, especially with heavy rain periods. Raise the beds more, till in amendments that improve drainage. Crop rotate, and soil drench if needed right after planting. Dont plant too deep or add too much mulch. I pick a top 10 or 20 annual varieties and stick to it. Do ol farmer trick and squeeze a fist of soil when wet, it should break apart when lightly pushed.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
It rotates a few times a year between Begonias, Impatients , and another I forget off top of my head.. they are raised about 15 to 18 inches above the lawn. I'll get pics tomorrow..

I'm doing this at customers request as recommended by ext service. Just mainly asking if there is a cheaper alternative to Subdue? I found the generic and that helps costs.. I'm just trying to save the customer some $$ but they are willing to pay if that's what I have to buy.
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
gunsnroses said:
Riggles got it. Pick the best plants for that spot, check water schedule. If irrigation is on same zone as turf, hand water or use plants that like those conditions. Soils play a major factor, especially with heavy rain periods. Raise the beds more, till in amendments that improve drainage. Crop rotate, and soil drench if needed right after planting. Dont plant too deep or add too much mulch. I pick a top 10 or 20 annual varieties and stick to it. Do ol farmer trick and squeeze a fist of soil when wet, it should break apart when lightly pushed.
Click to expand...
These are things I'm not in control of , but the landscaper is working on irrigation and drainage along with me working on the treatments.
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#13 · (Edited)
I guess your name foreplease indicates golf course work? Neither is permitted for residential turf and haven't been for a while.
 
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#15 ·
Kidding, right? Surely, you are not trying to grow impatiens. Downy mildew fungus has pretty much wiped out the impatiens in the US. Once the soil is infested the fungus remains for years.
Sunpatiens, and new guinea impatiens are resistant; they can be successfully grown. There are many other annuals that can be used to replace impatiens.
http://www.michigangardener.com/alternatives-to-impatiens/
 
#16 ·
TurfWerks said:
These are things I'm not in control of , but the landscaper is working on irrigation and drainage along with me working on the treatments.
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I understand. I have thrown everything at flowers before, trying to get disease under control, and nothing worked. I used and array of fungicides, bios, and more than I care to mention. Nothing has work as good as simply adding alot of o2. I am just saying because there is a fair chance that chemicals will not fix anything..... or maybe not for long.
 
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gunsnroses
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