I have always ran normal 10w30 and charged oil and filter every 50hrs. Now I bought synthetic to put in my mowers. Is this ok to run and how many hours can i get out of running synthetic? Thanks guys
Synthetic oil?
williams lcm
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I have always ran normal 10w30 and charged oil and filter every 50hrs. Now I bought synthetic to put in my mowers. Is this ok to run and how many hours can i get out of running synthetic? Thanks guys
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Maybe this will help. Found this info from previous post. I personally run synthetic in everything I own, yard equipment, generator, and cars. I take oil changes seriously. A mechanic buddy of mine, said as long as you perform your oil changes, you'll get the most out of your engine. He said it was easy to tell who did their maintenance and who didn't within minutes of an inspection. Snips I found are noted below.
"If you run synthetic just change at the same intervals as conventional. I know synthetic is supposed to give longer change intervals............ Look at your owners manual for recommended hours for changes. I change my riders between 50-100 hours. Always be sure you install a good oil filterif it uses one. Be sure you check the oil before each start up. Sometimes using synthetic the engines will use more oil. "
"There's many things I have seen and experienced......... I didn't want it to be a 200 response post over whether synthetics are good, or bad. I have always used the rule stick with the oil you Prefer from the start. Iam leaving that up to the Poster. "
"Just do or follow the manuals recommendation, use and run what it says, the manufacturer knows best."
"I am of the opinion that whomever told you that has no idea what they are talking about. I have used synthetic oil in each of those engines you mention and dating back as far as 30 yrs.
I have synthetic oil in my John Deere X728SE with 27 HP Kawasaki engine and John Deere says to use it right in my owners manual. I have synthetic oil in my Honda lawn mower, Honda engine on my Husqvarna power broom, Honda ATV, Honda generator for over 10 yrs. I have used synthetic oil in my B&S engine on my Ariens snow blower for 10 yrs from 1990-2000, bought a new one and sold the other to a neighbor and its still purring today with synthetic oil in the motor.
They (dealers and oem's) don't want you to use synthetic oil because they are afraid you will buy if from somewhere else and not from them. That's their real motives, $$$. They got to keep the customer coming back to them for everything.
btw This image is direct from the Briggs and Stratton website which is further proof you were given bogus information.
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Oil Recommendation
SAE 30 40ï½° F and higher (5ï½° C and higher) is good for all purpose use above 40ï½° F, use below 40ï½° F will cause hard starting.
10W-30 0 to 100ï½° F (-18 to 38ï½° C) is better for varying temperature conditions. This grade of oil improves cold weather starting, but may increase oil consumption at 80ï½° F(27ï½° C) or higher.
Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120ï½° F (-30 to 40ï½° C) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.
5W-30 40ï½° F and below (5ï½° C and below) is recommended for winter use, and works best in cold conditions.
From Kohler
What kind of oil should I use in my engine? Can I use synthetic oil?
10W-30 (Command Oil) is recommended for Command, Courage, Command PRO, Command PRO CS, Triad OHC, and Aegis engines for temperatures above freezing (32ï½°F, 0ï½°C). SAE-30 is an acceptable substitute if temperatures are above 50ï½°F, 10ï½°C. K-Series and Magnum engines should use SAE 30 (Magnum Oil) above freezing. 5W-20 or 5W-30 can be used in all engines when temperatures are below freezing. For more complete oil specifications refer to your owner's manual. For optimum performance, Kohler's special blend oils are available from your KOHLER dealer.
Synthetic oils meeting the classifications listed in the owner's manual may be used, however oil changes still need to be performed at the recommended intervals. To allow the piston rings to seat properly, Kohler recommends operating a new or rebuilt engine for at least 50 hours on standard oil before switching to the synthetic oil."
"I've been researching oil for quite some time now and this is what I came up with. I too have owned a lot of small engines and I also use synthetic oil In most of what I own now. With that being said when I did use dino oil or synthetic for that matter I have never had a oil related problem. Have you? Use the correct api rating and weigh of oil and you can use the cheapest oil you can find AS LONG AS YOU CHANGE IT REGULARLY. Thats the important thing getting the impurities out from all the blow by and moisture. Imo synthetic is better for cold temps on start up."
"If you run synthetic just change at the same intervals as conventional. I know synthetic is supposed to give longer change intervals............ Look at your owners manual for recommended hours for changes. I change my riders between 50-100 hours. Always be sure you install a good oil filterif it uses one. Be sure you check the oil before each start up. Sometimes using synthetic the engines will use more oil. "
"There's many things I have seen and experienced......... I didn't want it to be a 200 response post over whether synthetics are good, or bad. I have always used the rule stick with the oil you Prefer from the start. Iam leaving that up to the Poster. "
"Just do or follow the manuals recommendation, use and run what it says, the manufacturer knows best."
"I am of the opinion that whomever told you that has no idea what they are talking about. I have used synthetic oil in each of those engines you mention and dating back as far as 30 yrs.
I have synthetic oil in my John Deere X728SE with 27 HP Kawasaki engine and John Deere says to use it right in my owners manual. I have synthetic oil in my Honda lawn mower, Honda engine on my Husqvarna power broom, Honda ATV, Honda generator for over 10 yrs. I have used synthetic oil in my B&S engine on my Ariens snow blower for 10 yrs from 1990-2000, bought a new one and sold the other to a neighbor and its still purring today with synthetic oil in the motor.
They (dealers and oem's) don't want you to use synthetic oil because they are afraid you will buy if from somewhere else and not from them. That's their real motives, $$$. They got to keep the customer coming back to them for everything.
btw This image is direct from the Briggs and Stratton website which is further proof you were given bogus information.
Oil Recommendation
SAE 30 40ï½° F and higher (5ï½° C and higher) is good for all purpose use above 40ï½° F, use below 40ï½° F will cause hard starting.
10W-30 0 to 100ï½° F (-18 to 38ï½° C) is better for varying temperature conditions. This grade of oil improves cold weather starting, but may increase oil consumption at 80ï½° F(27ï½° C) or higher.
Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120ï½° F (-30 to 40ï½° C) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.
5W-30 40ï½° F and below (5ï½° C and below) is recommended for winter use, and works best in cold conditions.
From Kohler
What kind of oil should I use in my engine? Can I use synthetic oil?
10W-30 (Command Oil) is recommended for Command, Courage, Command PRO, Command PRO CS, Triad OHC, and Aegis engines for temperatures above freezing (32ï½°F, 0ï½°C). SAE-30 is an acceptable substitute if temperatures are above 50ï½°F, 10ï½°C. K-Series and Magnum engines should use SAE 30 (Magnum Oil) above freezing. 5W-20 or 5W-30 can be used in all engines when temperatures are below freezing. For more complete oil specifications refer to your owner's manual. For optimum performance, Kohler's special blend oils are available from your KOHLER dealer.
Synthetic oils meeting the classifications listed in the owner's manual may be used, however oil changes still need to be performed at the recommended intervals. To allow the piston rings to seat properly, Kohler recommends operating a new or rebuilt engine for at least 50 hours on standard oil before switching to the synthetic oil."
"I've been researching oil for quite some time now and this is what I came up with. I too have owned a lot of small engines and I also use synthetic oil In most of what I own now. With that being said when I did use dino oil or synthetic for that matter I have never had a oil related problem. Have you? Use the correct api rating and weigh of oil and you can use the cheapest oil you can find AS LONG AS YOU CHANGE IT REGULARLY. Thats the important thing getting the impurities out from all the blow by and moisture. Imo synthetic is better for cold temps on start up."
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I have ran mobile1 10-30 in all my gas mowers since they were new ( 3 kohlers and 1 kali ) and went 150hrs never had problems and I have 3 Kubota diesel and I run t6 rotella and I go 150 to 200 ish on those or when I think its getting dirty enough never had problems either.
its like tunedis said though ... just be regular.
but .... I did have a 5hp vangard on a ryan sod cutter and I never drained it, it burned oil for 2 years and I would dump whatever I had when it got low. 5-30,10-20, 15-40, ATF, you name it I dumped it in it and the only reason I quit using it was because I smashed the gas tank with the skid steer unloading it and it was only like 30 bucks more to get a harbor freight 5hp than to get a new gas tank. just for what its worth ... all engines run better with oil than without.
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155 Posts
I am not a pro I am a homeowner. Someone with a better mechanical background is free to correct me if I am wrong. I had a Harley that I switched from non syntheic to synthetic oil and I was told by the Harley mechanic that once I made that switch to synthetic I could never go back to non synthetic. Something to do with the seals if I recall correctly. Not sure if that still stands true or if that even applies to mower engines. I am coming up on my first oil change for my Kawasaki FR651V and I am considering switching to synthetic.
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17,351 Posts
manual says change every 100hrs even when using regular oil. you could go longer with synthetic but it's best to change at 100hrs regardless. you could probably go 200hrs but why push the limits? you want to change the oil before the additives start to break down.
Old wives tail. What can happen is on old junk previously run on cheap oils (not really an issue anymore with modern API certs) a high detergent synthetic will get in there and clean so well that seals will actually begin to leak as some of the clearances were taken up by varnishes/carbon. Other than that you can switch back and forth however many times you like. High mileage oils are the formulas that contain additives/conditioners for seals and are really only recommended if you have an actual issue like a weeping seal. Also almost every off the shelf oil manufacturer actually sells a Synthetic blend of highly refined dino oil and true synthetic base stocks which the courts ruled they could call "Full Synthetic". Very few companies market true synthetics.
For small engines i'd recommend you spend a few extra dollars and get an oil actually meant for small engines (or classic cars) as they're universally high in detergents and much higher in ZDDP which helps lubricate solid valve trains. The synthetics from Mobil1, Pennzoil, Valvoline etc.. are made for modern automotive engines which can contain 50-70% less ZDDP compared to a small engine oil since it builds up on catalytic converters. Odds of a low zinc related failure are pretty slim but we're really only talking about, at most, an extra $3-$4 per quart. Considering the engine is the heart of any given piece of machinery I think its worth a few extra dollars but that's me.
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155 Posts
Excellent clarification, thanks for that info! What is your opinion of Amsoil 4 Stroke Small Engine oil?
I have been using the Amsoil 4 stroke for several years with no issues at all. I have used other Amsoil products for 20+ years in vehicles, tractors, trucks. Oils, greases, fuel additives etc. No problems ever. Not saying that Amsoil is the best but it has no failed me yet.
Amsoil is boutique oil and very good stuff. Its a true group IV synthetic but you also pay for it. The 4 stroke formula is fine, but it doesn't have any friction modifiers which help (minutely) with fuel efficiency. Another good choice from them that also contains the friction modifiers is their Z-Rod formula. B&S 5W30 Synthetic is another very high end small engine oil but unfortunately costs about as much as Amsoil. On the cheaper end is a synthetic blend like Kawasaki K-Tech which runs around $5-$7 per quart and even cheaper than that would be an oil meant for a Diesel such as Rotella T5.
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I emailed Kawasaki and they obviously recommended K-Tech
I will go ahead and stay with their (and your) recommendation. I was looking at Kawasaki's viscosity chart and it seems that 10W40 covers the range of temps I would experience here in Alabama however, I have seen and read many folks going with 10W30. Obviously the winter weight doesn't matter to me but the summer weight does. Do you have an opinion on that? I might be over thinking all of this but I want to do everything I can to protect my investment for the long haul. I don't really care what the cost of the oil is as long as it's the best I can possibly buy. Keep in mind, I am taking care of ONE mower that I baby so my maintenance intervals are no where close to you pros and a few extra dollars on oil doesn't affect my profit margine since there isn't one!
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you should be using 20w50 in alabama or 15w50. they will do the best in the summer heat. 10w40 or 10w30 would be ok during the fall or winter time.I emailed Kawasaki and they obviously recommended K-Tech
on my old mower i used mobil 1 10w30 and it always used a good bit of oil. i made the switch to mobil 1 15w50 now. they changed the weight to use last year or the year before i think on the kawasaki oil chart.
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