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Keegan

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
About 6 years ago one of my accounts had a new regulation size soccer field built by a demolition contractor that never built an athletic field before and probably haven't since. The soil that was brought in is horrible. After using organic methods the situation has improved but it is nowhere it should be. I've overseeded and don't get much germination. The field does not not drain. THe manager of the school likes to water often. I've told them many times to back off on the watering but it has fallen on deaf ears.
Any thoughts on how drainage can be improved?

:hammerhead:
 
#2 ·
What type of soil and how is surface drainage? It is difficult to work with people who want something to fail, meaning the manager you mentioned.

If it is a heavy clay based field a soil test and a close look at calcium levels may yield recommendation that would help water drain down through the soil profile. Drain tile in the worst areas is probably needed. Deep tine aeration would help dry up the top 8" or so.

Photos would help. What organic methods have been used? Getting a good stand of grass growing and mowing it frequently can effectively help mine water out of the field.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
foreplease said:
What type of soil and how is surface drainage? It is difficult to work with people who want something to fail, meaning the manager you mentioned.

If it is a heavy clay based field a soil test and a close look at calcium levels may yield recommendation that would help water drain down through the soil profile. Drain tile in the worst areas is probably needed. Deep tine aeration would help dry up the top 8" or so.

Photos would help. What organic methods have been used? Getting a good stand of grass growing and mowing it frequently can effectively help mine water out of the field.
Click to expand...
The field is pitched to the sides. But near the goals on both ends water will stay. The soil is loam and some clay and very little sand. It has always been extremely compacted since installed. I use all organic fertilizers, worm castings, liquid bacteria with yucca, core aerate about 3 times a year. I do not have control over the irrigation system.

The calcium is 76% from the test a few years ago.
 
#4 ·
I would say go with a half organic product--best of both. Say half urea and half Milorganite, 50 pounds each; you need potassium at a ratio of about 1 seventh; so add about 14 pounds of muriate of potash, to above 100 pounds.

If it is irrigated too much, I don't see how the seed can fail--be sure to use a high-quality disease resistant perennial rye--no cheap 1970s technology seed. Apply at least 10 pounds seed per thousand sqft.

Can you move the goals and repaint the lines every month--the purpose being to even out the goal-mouth wear.

Keep working on the excess irrigation problem--keep talking. Point out that irrigation should be stopped 48 hours before a game so the soil becomes more firm for better footing--ball rolls straight and fast.

You need to think of a way to restore the field,s crown--it must drain.
 
#7 ·
Take in consideration the turf in front of the nets get beat on the most out of any part on the field. From goal keepers standing to players crashing the net. It's going to be hard keeping grass healthy there. I would try top dressing and see how it goes. Make sure you brush the sand into the grass or it won't look to great.
 
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