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jbell36

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I have noticed that RB valves don't seem to like air very much. We have very few systems that use RB valves and almost every one of them has a problem when blowing out. Is this a thing or is it just a coincidence?

We are in Hunter country here. I will say that I definitely like the Hunter valves better than RB for simplicity reasons. Most (if not all?) their valves use the same solenoid for one, and it only takes 4 coarse threaded screws (instead of 6) to take one apart, which can be done very quickly. Not to knock RB as they are most definitely a quality company, just figured I would ask and give my .02 cents. At least they have both come a long ways from Toro valves, those have 10 screws, much more difficult to take apart in the field.
 
Which RB valves are you having issue with? I've only had a few problems so far, but nothing repeatitve. Which hunter valves are you used to? The older Toro 252 valves were a nice 20-25 year old valve. They aren't as sturdy now, plus the price of parts, and the separate plunger and spring REALLY gets annoying fast. I have the Jar head Ez-flo installed at my house and they work but Iwouldn't dare use them or any Jar head valve at a commercial site.

By the way, I have pictures of the 1.5" Rainbird PGA, hunter pga, and toro 252 torn apart if anyone wants a comparison.
 
Nope, never had an issue. I blow at 60psi from my 100 cfm tow behind.
 
Rain Bird PGA, 1 1/2" Similar looking to the PGA, filter on the center diaphragm passage, multi headed screws, encapsulated solenoid, etc. The PGA comes with a little wing lever on the solenoid to make it easy to turn, however after 10 years or so in the ground, when you go to replace the solenoid that wing doesn't come off and you almost always will need to cut the side of it with a hacksaw.

 
Toro 252-26-06, 1 1/2" . This version is from 1995, good ol' days when Toro was big. This valve has the off-set solenoid, the modern 252 is now inline with the piping. It is very different from the PGA and PGV. The solenoid has a separate plunger and spring (VERY annoying), the manual on/off is the bleeder only, diaphragm spring is much larger, only has Phillips headed screws for bonnet (modern version is the same too), and there's a nice metal ring where the diaphragm seals against when the valve is off. Biggest turn offs for me on this valve has been the solenoid plunger and spring being separate, the cost of the solenoid (the PGV vs. the Toro 252 solenoid are about the same price!), the manual on/off is from the bleeder screw and notice the O-ring inside the solenoid chamber? That O-ring is separate, even though you just paid so much for a new solenoid. In the field, they operate just as well as other brands for the most part.
 
Hahah. Most of our systems are rainbird around here... and I notice the exact opposite lol... only valves that don't seem to act right at shut down are the hunters... (and it's really not that many)

Also... I replace more 1" pgv guts than anything during the season... diaphragm is usually torn or the white collar thing cracked... the dv100s I do end up working on are pretty damn old, no bleed screw and the screen on the bottom of the solenoid is different...

I don't notice much of a problem with 1.5" hunters ... who knowssss... lol
 
Hahah. Most of our systems are rainbird around here... and I notice the exact opposite lol... only valves that don't seem to act right at shut down are the hunters... (and it's really not that many)

Also... I replace more 1" pgv guts than anything during the season... diaphragm is usually torn or the white collar thing cracked... the dv100s I do end up working on are pretty damn old, no bleed screw and the screen on the bottom of the solenoid is different...

I don't notice much of a problem with 1.5" hunters ... who knowssss... lol
We have a good mix of Hunter, Irritrol, and Rain Bird. Even have a system of Toro valves. Never had an issue with them.

I personally use Iritrol 2400 valves though, just popular here, and have never had an issue with them. Never had an issue except sticking open on a very small zone if opened manually.
 
We have only a few properties with Hunter PGV valves and they are all 5 years or newer. 5 properties have Rain bird PGAs that seem to be lasting really well. The Toro 252 makes up a large number of our properties and they are all aging and to the point of needing replacement. But when a valve is facing 20 years of use, blow out, etc. it's hard to ask for more from it.
 
I can see that. Problem is you'll need a bonnet with flow control stem and bleeder, a diaphragm, and a solenoid. Too costly. I prefer one repair every 20 years vs limping it along. This goes with all valves, not just Toros.
Why a new bonnet? Old valves generally get by with diaphragms and solenoids, and that 252 solenoid looks like a standard 3/4 x 20 model you can get for a Champion or Superior brass valve, complete with O-ring.
 
I agree. I figure I under estimate just how old some of these valves are now... and those 252s out there have got to be the oldest, I don't think anyone around here still installs them on new systems...

on the topic of Toro 252s. I just carry an entire new valve on my truck and replace everything... it's not worth it to save a couple bucks in parts to have something else go wrong later... or to even attempt to carry individual parts. I can put a new top on and not look at it again for another 20 years.

Dv100, pgv, 2400s and the 252 are about the only valves around here... anything else gets dug up and replaced with a dv100. (Generally speaking)
 
Why a new bonnet? Old valves generally get by with diaphragms and solenoids, and that 252 solenoid looks like a standard 3/4 x 20 model you can get for a Champion or Superior brass valve, complete with O-ring.
New bonnet and flow control because they often leak from it. I look at a valve like a refrigerator, after a certain age its better off to replace the whole thing then try to put parts into it. Exception: solenoid failure or its o ring.

Anyways, I don't have experience with champion or superior but I've looked high and low for a substitue for the Toro 252 solenoid, praying the R811 or something would work. And nothing. Keep in mind, the 1" version has a different solenoid than the 1.5 and 2". Also, Toro uses about half a dozen different solenoids for all their valves. Rainbird pga line gives adapters and all the o rings and hunter only has 1 solenoid.
 
There might be an o-ring in the flow control assembly that fails. Try a cheapo Superior or Champion solenoid, if you run across one. The oldest valve designs tended to use standard issue solenoids used in industrial applications that pre-date the irrigation manufacturers.
 
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