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Sharpening chain saw in field

12K views 56 replies 20 participants last post by  Mr Stripe 
#1 ·
#4 ·
Sharpening chains in the field when you are hot tired and upset isn't good either.......nor is a rookie who's never hand sharpened one either, or been trained to. So spending upwards of 45mins to sharpen is ok vers approx 10 to just change it.

I still can't believe your saying changing a chain IS hard! Guess you just need power tools for everything then huh
 
#5 ·
Sounds like a training issue to me. Frankly if a guy can't sharpen a chainsaw after proper instruction then he has no business running one.

We sharpen in the field with a file. One of my guys picked up the Stihl 2 in 1 deal and he likes it, but if you can't work a file you won't be able to work one of those either. A moderately competent chainsaw operator can sharpen a chain faster than he can swap one.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for sharing. I have another brand 2 in 1 and really don't like it. You have to flip things around depending on what side you're on. I usually use a file and roller guide thingy and check the depth gauges occasionally and file then separately. I got lazy and was sending my chains out for a while and it seems like they overheat them...The teeth come back blue and seem to dull quickly.
 
#7 ·
I understand your issue. I have not used that tool on my chains, used to using the Stihl filing tool. I had spare, sharp chains. Plus I had a spare or two of saws. A guy would hand off his saw and be given a spare. The hot one would have its chain changed and material cleaned out by someone not cutting. We would just keep rotating the saws like this all day.
I watched two youtube videos of this tool.

The tool seems simple to use, slightly easier than the file tool. It's basically the file tool with dummy proof side guides. They can only screw it up by having the file up side down in the teeth of the chain. Train one or two guys on it and you should be good to go.
 
#8 ·
Seems I always find myself wedged in between two tree trunks hand filing a chain. I actually get a better file-job out in the natural sunlight vs (in a shop) Nothing wrong with that. It's part of the experience of cutting. I tried a couple of various sharpening tools, (not that one) but I hated em. I just make sure I have a fresh clean file with a good handle. Filing in the field gives a few minutes of rest.
 
#10 ·
I know a guy who worked for a tree service and always had to have another guy hold the saw for him while he sharpened it. The arborist I worked for had this weird kneeling/crouch thing he did over his saw with the toe from one foot through the back handle. I usually just do it on my truck tailgate and hold the bar with my left hand. I have one of them stump vise clamps for the bar but I never use it.

So how do you guys hold the saw when sharpening? I think this is still on topic...
 
#16 ·
Actually it is, and you're not constantly switching chains. I've worked with lots of arborists and I can tell you that most of them will hand file in the field, even when you've got a handful of chains for backup. If you start with a sharp chain and it begins to dull a hand file can put a brand new edge on it. I can hand file my chains 5 times before I have them sharpened with a new edge. Usually the extra chains are for when you need a fresh one before a climb, or if you completely dull your chain from hitting dirt or something hard.

I'm a big fan of hand filing, sure it takes 10 minutes, but if you've ever cut with as aw, those 10 min. aren't a bad thing. Cut for 30 min straight and you'll be looking forward to some filing time.
 
#20 ·
I prefer a round file with a wooden handle now but I learned how to sharpen a saw with a guide similar to the one you linked. If I'm using a saw a lot it's touched up often, 30 mins of cutting time sounds about right.

The guides are nice and do reinforce proper technique. If you are trying to train people to do it I think they help.
 
#23 ·
I know some people hate or even despise sharpening... but man you force a guy to learn and one of two things will happen

1) he will do everything he possibly can to protect that chain

2) he will get damn good at sharpening

You want to run a saw you better know how to maintain it every couple tanks a touch up is better then going flat dull and trying to put a new edge. Swapping chains is for when you hit hidden metal or rock, not laziness tapping the dirt. Plus sharpening gives a couple minute extra break to catch your breath.

As for easiest way to hold the saw to sharpen I put the saw on the ground between my knees and kinda lay on it for lack of better words. Prefer doing it on a tree that's already down if possible. But for me it puts me directly behind the saw and I can see my file angles both left and right evenly.
 
#24 ·
As for easiest way to hold the saw to sharpen I put the saw on the ground between my knees and kinda lay on it for lack of better words. Prefer doing it on a tree that's already down if possible. But for me it puts me directly behind the saw and I can see my file angles both left and right evenly.
Same here exactly. I don't use any guides ore anything I just free file. Over the last few years iv gotten much better at it and I agree, every couple of tanks I touch it up. Just got done with a $1400 job and only needed 3 filings of the 362-c
 
#26 ·
There is a way to make a holder out of a sapling and then file it..

give that a shot...

BR,

~TW
 
#36 ·
Don't forget to take a flat file to the rakers (depth gauges) every 10th or so touch up. Once a tooth is sharpen enough times the point drops below the raker and no matter how sharp a chain is it won't cut. You only need to take 3-5 swipes on it. Too little won't cut. Too much and the chain will grab and won't spin and smoke a clutch.

Information overload yet? :dizzy:
 
#40 ·
Don't forget to take a flat file to the rakers (depth gauges) every 10th or so touch up. Once a tooth is sharpen enough times the point drops below the raker and no matter how sharp a chain is it won't cut. You only need to take 3-5 swipes on it. Too little won't cut. Too much and the chain will grab and won't spin and smoke a clutch.

Information overload yet? :dizzy:
Yeah that's why, I recommended that the guy who won't take care of his learn on one of these :).

BR,

~TW
 
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