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Rick1111

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Looking for something to spray to help control suckering on crepe myrtles as well as other trees. I've found one product called "sucker punch" but never used it. Any feedback on this or other similar product that you might have used. Customer told me to spray round up on them. LOL. Of course I said no. Was thinking diquat dibromide as a possibility but then found out not labled for it so that's a no.
 
So will a propane torch. Handy for situations where chemicals are either not legal or good practice. I have used a torch to cauterize bud tissue to stop growth permanently. Might not be permanent on trees that sucker from the roots. Extensive suckers are sometimes indicative of drought stress. Tree stops supporting the lead growth and instead grows suckers.
 
Extensive suckers are sometimes indicative of drought stress.
This is it. The trees/shrubs aren't happy. It may not necessarily be drought, but it is some sort of water/malnutrition/sunlight issue. To solve the issue long term, you need to figure out which it is, and remediate it.
Customer told me to spray round up on them.
This will work short term. I wouldn't be worried about hurting the tree/shrub as long as you don't hit the "parent's" foliage. Not a long term solution though. They will come back, as the suckers are receiving nutrition from the parent plant. It actually might cause a more vigorous regrowth. You may know this already, but usually pruning creates a reaction from the plant to create more growth from the spot of pruning. The same thing is likely to happen here.
So will a propane torch.
Never heard this, but this is probably the first new idea on sucker control I have ever heard that seems like a reasonable approach. Damage the buds bad enough that the tree/shrub will "learn" that sucker growth is inhospitable. I will be trialing this soon.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I'm seeing more and more reports on glyophosate damage to trees from for example just repeated spraying around mulch rings. I was more than hesitant to spray a product that can translocate to the vascular system of a plant. I just didn't want to chance it. But those napthelene sucker control products that's someone posted I'm going to try.
 
Ya I think so...on lawn care... no advertising or anything and everyone keeps sending more people my way and everyone is happy ...I'm at the point where I probably won't take any more accounts unless it's something I will really have fun with..... this site is helping me enter the comedy field.... give me a break...I'm just starting the new career ..comedy... care of Lawn site..lol
 
I wasn't being sarcastic. I appreciate your adding to the conversation. From the link that you posted, it appears that they are discussing concern about saplings(their own 3-leaf metric). That is still young wood, in which the cambium would be exposed to the glyphosate. (Still not being sarcastic or hateful) If you could post something that showed any kind of damage in plants older than 5 years(most typical of the trees planted in landscapes around the country) I would appreciate it.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
The ag extension reports show what they say is damage due to glyophosate use. I'll try to get the link since what I've got are the PDFs. Show a picture of a row of I'd say 4 to 5 year old trees with a before and after pics due to glyophosate use, all dead or dying. Again, that's what they are claiming. I'll see if I can get the link or the PDF up sometime in next few days before I head out on vacation. I just wanted to be on the safe side. And those had me worried enough not to chance it.
 
And I do also want to reiterate that extension papers are NOT peer-reviewed and do not hold much weight scientifically. They are written by the guy that was hired to your extension office for any number of reasons, including: the last guy liked him, his brother is the mayor, he gave a substantial donation to the state college, or he helped a local farmer with his advice through blind luck, among other non-qualifying reasons.
 
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