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Timing the Applications and Eliminating these weeds

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takervader

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Fields/fairways are entirely bermuda. Some common, mostly Tif419.

Temps have warmed considerably from the last two weeks and it now looks like soil temps will be climbing up into the 50s soon. Nighttime temps still drip into the 40s but I expect the Bradford Pears will bloom by around March 5 just like last year. That is usually the signal to get pre down immediately. I'm starting to check the trees for buds.

Last year had serious problems with Goosegrass. Adjacent areas are overrun with this and damned Dallisgrass, but I don't have a say in that. I just have to keep it out. Another problem was Doveweed that came in because I just mistimed the second application of pre-emergent. Still, some areas had goose keep coming. A little spurge here and there, and a good bit of Virginia Buttonweed that just would not die.

Dallis was nuked with gly in November just as bermuda went dormant. Hopefully none comes back (please God!)

Now trying to figure out what best would eliminate the problem weeds still present so I'm not chasing anything all summer. Typically i go with Simazine once early, usually mixed with some form of Metsulfuron, then Dimension in May and Dimension again in September. Right now there is nothing green except for a speck or two of rye and chickweed. Spring is the time i need to figure out how to prevent things, in fall the turf stays nice and dormant brown.

This year I'm thinking go with Ronstar on all areas where Goose was giving me headaches. I'm torn on whether I should hold the Dimension and try Specticle first or as the 2nd app in May to stop the Doveweed.

What would you do with this turf? How would you time the first pre apps?
 
#2 ·
If I'm understanding you correctly this is a golf course? or a residential property. If I lived in Alabama I would want my pre-emergent down before March 1. Bradford Pear blooms are a very poor indicator of when to apply pre-emergents. Use a meat thermometer or something similar and check soil temps. Goose grass actually germinates later than crabgrass
 
#4 · (Edited)
It depends on a lot of things. Region, Weather etc... I'm in Central Arkansas. Crabgrass germinates around the first week of April. Down where ArTurf is in south Arkansas, most things tend to be about 2 weeks ahead of me. He's not that far from me. If all you have is 15 or 20 acres of turf to treat, I'd wait, but not too long. Knowing when crabgrass germinates in your area is key. If you plan to do some kind of split app, I'd use the Specticle on the latter app. I've found that that the doveweed comes up later here and the Specticle is the only thing I know of that prevents it, so the later the better. It is also supposed to work on Goosegrass as well. I have 6 or 7 lawns that have Doveweed and they will receive Specticle a bit later.
If we could get all of our lawns done in a weeks time and do it 2 weeks before crabgrass germinates, that's what we'd do. However, we have 14 million sq ft we treat and that's just not possible.
Buttonweed can be controlled/suppressed but never eradicated. Metsulfuron is the best tool I've found. Adjust your rates for best control.
P.S. Don't forget to use some type of surfactant with that Metsulfuron
 
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#5 ·
Specticle is the preemergent for Goosegrass. Barricade is not bad when applied at higher rates Dimension is less than acceptable unless applied at the maximum. Specticle is very active on Goosegrass at the lower end of its rate range. A split application at 3 oz of Specticle Flo is very effective. Even in my state. It is also rather persistent. I remember treating a PITA Zoysia lawn back in October and it went 6 months without weeds. That was at 6 oz per acre. I would not do that rate on Bermuda. It would be a split application.
 
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#6 ·
People applying specticle later... As in Bermuda transitioning out of dormancy, notice any delayed green up effects or yellowing?

What are your herbicides of choice during this time?
This is a good time for the doveweed, burnweed, goosegrass, spurge in my opinion.
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
ArTurf said:
You say fairways aka golf course, I think you can still use MSMA on the Dallis, later when it is active of course but better check on this.
Click to expand...
I can, and I have some, but honestly its not very effective.

MSMA turns it yellow, somewhat stunts it, but putting it down at the recommended 3 week interval between applications doesn't get it done. Putting too much turns all the bermuda yellow for a week. I've found i'm better off nuking it with gly and hoping the bermuda around it will recover. In that situation, its best to put it down in that 2-week window just as the Bermuda is becoming fully awake, or when I'm ready to do the 2nd pre app. But, in some areas where theres one or two annoying leaves popping up, I'll spot with MSMA.

I've heard things about Tribute Total and/or Katana to mix with it but have not tried those. I did try mixing Certainty with it on a recommendation and that did not work.

Thus, why I hate dallis so much.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Digitaria Sanguinalis said:
If I'm understanding you correctly this is a golf course? or a residential property. If I lived in Alabama I would want my pre-emergent down before March 1. Bradford Pear blooms are a very poor indicator of when to apply pre-emergents. Use a meat thermometer or something similar and check soil temps. Goose grass actually germinates later than crabgrass
Click to expand...
I'm thinking of putting it down this weekend actually. The highs have jumped from the 40s to the 60s and are projected to stay that way for the next two weeks.
 
#10 ·
For those of you using Specticle, do you find it works better for fall app or early spring app? I’m thinking about using a split app of 6oz/acre followed by another 6oz/acre for my fall pre. Then sticking to split app dimension in spring. Thoughts?
 
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