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grassmasterswilson

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
im at the tail end of round 1 and starting to hit the new pickups on my warm turf route. Many are full of broadleafs and poa(seed heads showing).

Highs will be in the 50s. Was thinking celcius at 5oz + surfactant + pre would be a good option on clean up. Normally I like to save celcius for summer but seeing a good mix of broadleafs and grassy weeds
 
im at the tail end of round 1 and starting to hit the new pickups on my warm turf route. Many are full of broadleafs and poa(seed heads showing).

Highs will be in the 50s. Was thinking celcius at 5oz + surfactant + pre would be a good option on clean up. Normally I like to save celcius for summer but seeing a good mix of broadleafs and grassy weeds
I thought the Max rate on Celsius was around 3oz/acre. Never used it for Poa. Always used Certainty when Glyphosate wasn't safe (anything other than Bermuda). Is Poa on the Celsius label? Lots of weeds covered on the Certainty label
 
I thought the Max rate on Celsius was around 3oz/acre. Never used it for Poa. Always used Certainty when Glyphosate wasn't safe (anything other than Bermuda). Is Poa on the Celsius label? Lots of weeds covered on the Certainty label
My mistake. I looked at a label. It says 4.9oz/acre is high rate(spot treatment) 7.4oz/acre max for a given area in a 365 day period. I just blazed through it but didn't see anything on max rate for broadcast apps.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Poa not on the label but hearing many guys getting control. Was just thinking celcius would be more economical and same certainty for later on sedges.

With green up I’m seeing simazine, atrazine, etc may be bad for delayed greenup but cold nights may set it back for me.
 
I know it hasn’t been mentioned here and probably doesn’t apply to your question but MSM caused me to have delayed green up last spring. I sprayed some sections of roadsides and skipped where there were no weeds and the sections hit with MSM came in about 2 weeks later than the rest. I think I mixed it at 0.22 grams per k.
Wish I knew if Celsius would kill pop or not.
Ted, how long does it take Certainty?
 
I know it hasn't been mentioned here and probably doesn't apply to your question but MSM caused me to have delayed green up last spring. I sprayed some sections of roadsides and skipped where there were no weeds and the sections hit with MSM came in about 2 weeks later than the rest. I think I mixed it at 0.22 grams per k.
Wish I knew if Celsius would kill pop or not.
Ted, how long does it take Certainty?
That kind of depends on temps. MSO helps but things work slower when it's still cool. Glyphosate I used on a couple of accounts 3-4 weeks ago at a 1oz/1000 rate is just now turning Poa to a yellowish color. I didn't use any MSO because it was the "Pro" variety. It wouldn't have taken the Certainty any longer to do the same. I've often wondered if a dab of Quicksilver might push up the timetable.
We are still pretty dormant in wide open areas and still have some cool nights ahead in the 7 day forecast
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I was thinking of running speedzone southern next year in round 1. I’ve seen some guys use it(mixed with atrazine) and they seem to get burn down much quicker than me. Carfentrazone acting like an accelerator for the entire mix.
 
I was thinking of running speedzone southern next year in round 1. I've seen some guys use it(mixed with atrazine) and they seem to get burn down much quicker than me. Carfentrazone acting like an accelerator for the entire mix.
Makes sense...that's why I wondered about using the Quicksilver. I have a little bottle of it and ought to do some testing
I rarely use Atrazine. It works but dogwoods and azaleas are sensitive and it moves. Also it is dangerous for bermuda if used too late in the transition. I once saw lawn after lawn down a street where TG had sprayed Atrazine too late. Gray, dead looking bermuda lawns except for a 1/2" strip around every edge. Word had it that the local branch manager had quit and they sent some guy from Ohio to run things and he went "by the book".
It takes a little more finesse with what we do in southern climates. You can't go by a book. JMO
I understand you using Atrazine on St. Aug's and Centipedes because it works and in the proper hands is safe. However, my triazine of choice is Simazine more so for safety reasons both lawn and surrounding environment.
 
I remember setting back Bermuda growing in Zoysia with Atrazine + 2,4-D ester. Never got that reaction with Simazine. I have no dormant season. Simazine is safer and less likely to injure grass or else nearby vegetation. However, it will still move in alkaline and sandy soil. Enough to kill trees. I did not experience that personally, but know someone that did.
 
Makes sense...that's why I wondered about using the Quicksilver. I have a little bottle of it and ought to do some testing
I rarely use Atrazine. It works but dogwoods and azaleas are sensitive and it moves. Also it is dangerous for bermuda if used too late in the transition. I once saw lawn after lawn down a street where TG had sprayed Atrazine too late. Gray, dead looking bermuda lawns except for a 1/2" strip around every edge. Word had it that the local branch manager had quit and they sent some guy from Ohio to run things and he went "by the book".
It takes a little more finesse with what we do in southern climates. You can't go by a book. JMO
I understand you using Atrazine on St. Aug's and Centipedes because it works and in the proper hands is safe. However, my triazine of choice is Simazine more so for safety reasons both lawn and surrounding environment.
A "by the book" type would either not get any weed control or else cook every single one of my lawns. All it would take is usage of high MCPP broadleaf weed controls, amine formulations, or indiscriminate usage of root pruning preemergents. Low cut Bermuda, Seashore Paspalum or Zoysia is a little different in terms of herbicide tolerance. I know that unmowed common Bermuda, as is used in pastures and grazed areas is very herbicide tolerant. Pretty sure that Bermuda kept at out of bounds or rough height might be similar. 1 Lb of Atrazine on green, low cut Bermuda would be 20 lb of activated charcoal per 1000 sq ft and then a call to the sod farm.
 
I remember setting back Bermuda growing in Zoysia with Atrazine + 2,4-D ester. Never got that reaction with Simazine. I have no dormant season. Simazine is safer and less likely to injure grass or else nearby vegetation. However, it will still move in alkaline and sandy soil. Enough to kill trees. I did not experience that personally, but know someone that did.
I've had Sim kill small trees, killed two curly willows last year. I was going to take them out anyway it just sped up the process.
 
Can happen. Especially under the conditions of high rainfall and porous soils. When I used Simazine, I had control over how much water and soil texture. So no Simazine before heavy rain, I controlled the irrigation and never on sandy or loam soil. I think the current label on Simazine is bassacwards. Why is application restricted to when fall and spring flooding is likely? I mostly used it during the warm and dry season, watering it in not to the point of flooding or runoff. No problems.
 
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