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I had a similar issue and it was misdiagnosed 4x by 3 of the shop mechanics. After bringing it to the head mechanic he figured it out. What seemed like a fuel issue was a loose fuse / bad wiring issue. Check all your fuses and double check them for even a little “burn” mark. I forget exactly what he fixed cuz it was on the fly - but 2 of the fuses under the seat needed both fuses and wires replaced (Even though only 1 of the 2 was visibly about to blow).
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
I had a similar issue and it was misdiagnosed 4x by 3 of the shop mechanics. After bringing it to the head mechanic he figured it out. What seemed like a fuel issue was a loose fuse / bad wiring issue. Check all your fuses and double check them for even a little "burn" mark. I forget exactly what he fixed cuz it was on the fly - but 2 of the fuses under the seat needed both fuses and wires replaced (Even though only 1 of the 2 was visibly about to blow).
I will check them out. Thanks!
 
No luck. Dealer didn't put a new carb like he said he would. Called kawasaki and they refused to warranty anything. Said my yard is too rough and I am going too fast. Even though I am going less than half speed. Funny how my old home depot Toro ran like a top cutting my property, and my neighbors hustler raptor SD has ZERO issues and his property is just like mine.
To make matters worse my dealer started by saying he couldn't get it to miss unless he hit bumps going very fast that threw him up off the seat, then I get on it and just going half throttle through his gravel parking lot made it miss. Then he gets on it and it does the same thing, while I am there of course. Then if you just very slowly go over his speed bump it almost kills. He refused to take it back or exchange it. Another disadvantage to not buying from one of those horrible big box stores everybody hates. Tractor supply would have taken it back no problem.
So I am pretty much stuck with this piece of junk until i can afford to sell it for a loss and get something that runs. This was my first and last kawasaki engine. I don't care how good people say they are, if they don't support their product they are junk. There is nothing worse that a manufacturer And dealer who tries to blame their customers for junk equipment. And this FX730 is JUNK!! I have owned $99 mowers from Wal-Mart that ran better.
On another note I got home and tried to cut. It missed of course but while cutting it came a little rain shower. The scag did very poorly in the wet grass. Clogged so bad I had to stop and let the engine catch up before it bogged and died.
You others who are having this same issue, good luck. I hope you find a resolution. I will have to use mine another month or so then I am going to try and get rid of it. I don't have time for garbage equipment.
Grantski may be onto something. Maybe it is a Scag issue rather than a Kawasaki problem.
 
I have a bobcat w a Kawasaki Fx. Think stalled 20x in the first 10 hrs. Once fixed Now at almost 100 hours it runs perfect no issues.
O yea also keep your battery charged - was told a low battery can cause some stalling but that still doesn’t make much sense to me.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Looking at the warranty (because I might sell it soon), I was shocked to see it is not transferable. Pretty much every other brand out there has transferable warranties. Exmark, hustler, Deere, etc. Talk about a resell killer! Didn't think to check that before buying it, but I guess I didn't buy it planning to sell it.
 
It’s super frustrating for thousands it shouldn’t give us any trouble. Get it to the right mechanic I bet they’ll figure it out. Like I said 3 mechanics plus myself were pulling our hair out - they started getting sick of seeing me and I think they had about given up - even started giving me attitude. you got a warranty leave the mower there till it’s fixed or try another shop. I drove 50 miles cuz our local shop refused to warranty service a machine I didn’t buy from them (ridiculous I know)
 
Looking at the warranty (because I might sell it soon), I was shocked to see it is not transferable. Pretty much every other brand out there has transferable warranties. Exmark, hustler, Deere, etc. Talk about a resell killer! Didn't think to check that before buying it, but I guess I didn't buy it planning to sell it.
Do you really want to sell it with a known problem?
 
What seemed like a fuel issue was a loose fuse / bad wiring issu
Well, one sure-fire way to figger out if ign. or fuel is to isolate the kill wire fer the coils. You can unplug the engine harness connection but ya gotta run a 12v. jumper to the fuel solenoid . Can jump across the unplugged connector, right ? I myself, remove the kill wire terminal from within the connector, then simply push it back in place when done testin. Make sure the batt. is fully charged as ya won't be charging it fer the short time yer bouncin' around, right?
Check yer wiring diagram fer the kill circuit, ya may be able to unplug the kill wire somewhere along the unit harness.

You should have the manuals/diagrams , right?
Well... did ya?

Get yer Kaw. service manual here : http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/

There is no adjustment on the carb float, none.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
The
Well... did ya?

Get yer Kaw. service manual here : http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/

There is no adjustment on the carb float, none.
The seat is jumped This morning I unplugged the parking break switch. I hit a bump and the engine shut down momentarily then took back off. I changed the two main fuses and checked all the wiring. It looked fine. What seemed to help the most was deflating the tires. They were at 25 psi which seemed way high. Put them to 14. Could be fuel or could be something electrical. I couldn't swear to anything.
 
So Please ...please do as fish stated way back in post 12 of this thread.
It would tell you very fast if the issue is electric related or something totally different.
so just a repeat again....remove the kill wire from coils and do a test run with wire removed
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
There is a white wire that runs through the safety switch system and goes to the engine. If you simply unplug it at the engine where it plugs into a black wire it bypasses all the safety switches. I can engage the parking brake and pull the drive sticks in without it killing. I will try it with that unplugged.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
I feel very confident this is not an electrical issue. I ran power straight to the 12v feed to the engine, which is red wire with yellow strip at the engine harness, and ran power to the solenoid on the carb. Mower still missed on bumps. This bypassed the entire electrical system on the mower.
I either have a bad carb or this is a inheritant issue with these engines.
 
If it's under warranty why would you pay for labor? Call the reps of the engine
 
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