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Kawasaki fc420V driving me insane

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Ronlud

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Preview of gallery image.

Linkage

JOhn Deer FC420V Linkage
I have a john Deere 170, with a fc420V . IT decided not to be agreeable and start / run.
We presumed it to be carburetor / spark plug. Switched out the Plug BPRSE5. Changed the Oil, Drained the gas tank and put in fresh non-ethanol gas. Still nothing. Plent y of spark .. but no fire. Removed Carburetor, could not completely disassemble so put in Vibrating wash. Removed from wash, cleaned completely .. Reassembled , Engine will now start but only on fully choked (and then very difficult, starting fluid needed most times) and then like on a very low idle. RE-adjusted the Governer, according to instructions found on this site. Same problem. Played with govener, now starts at full choke, (still hard to start) but when slowly reduced towards fast setting, it revs very high, running crazy . but thats where it stays even pushing the throttle lever down to Idle. Have to stop it , or put back up into the choke area before the engine blows.. but it does run really well .. no smoke or skipping. I'm wondering if we have the linkages backwards
as, logically to me it makes 0 sense as moving the throttle does nothing to the linkages until you get to the choke area, then it moves the interior throttle , the Govener linkage is hooked to the exterior choke. It would seem that by moving the fast / slow dash lever you should see the throttle linkage being moved. Going to attemp to add a picture of the linkage, does this look correct ? at this point in the picture, nothing has moved on the other end of where the linkages attach. It is here where further movement into the choke area pushes / turns the throttle .. (the one closest to the engine) I sure am hoping for some advice here.. this old machine has been working for us for a very long time, Id hate to retire it .. because of a setting I could not get.
Oh, engine compression is 125.. so nothing bad there ! Thanks in Advance
 
#2 · (Edited)
The linkage/rod from the gov. arm goes directly to the THROTTLE LEVER/ARM ON THE CARB. There is no direct connection other than that. The cable /mechanism acts on the SPRING that connects to the gov.arm. So, reset the gov./arm per the manual. Then check/adj. The choke and cable setup. Google ya a manual.
Likely have a carb problem too, may not be gettin gas.
Most all Kaw. need full on choke to start, so ya gotta get the choke/linkage right on.
 
#3 ·
Here is the shop manual for the FC 420......

That should cover you for what you need to know on the linkage and carb....
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thank you Bigfish and Breezmeister for your support, IT was as I expected, the linkages were reversed. Now at least they work as i expect they should. I reversed them, re-adjusted the governor, re-adjusted the idle / pilot screw so the engine runs smoothly at idle and at fast. I was getting pulsing when it was incorrect. I think I still must have something a bit out of wack, as it will backfire when it starts, plus to start, i only need to have throttle at about the half way mark, no choking required. To do this work, I removed the carb (to unhook the linkages easier.) But I noticed there is no gasket between the carb and the engine... should there not be a gasket of some kind here ? plus my throttle linkage has a spring wrapped around it, does the hook for this spring go into the same hole as the linkage ? I cant not tell from diagrams. Also, once started and reducing from fast to idle, if i rapidly go back up to fast, the engine will sputter and die.. if i go very slow, there is no problem ... (governor still out of adjustment maybe ? )
Thanks again all .. especial for the workshop Manual.
 
#5 ·
Ronlud said:
But I noticed there is no gasket between the carb and the engine... should there not be a gasket of some kind here ? plus my throttle linkage has a spring wrapped around it, does the hook for this spring go into the same hole as the linkage ? I cant not tell from diagrams. Also, once started and reducing from fast to idle, if i rapidly go back up to fast, the engine will sputter and die.. if i go very slow, there is no problem ... (governor still out of adjustment maybe ? )
Click to expand...
That fine spring wrapped around the throttle linkage rod gets hooked into the same hole as the linkage rod at the carb end. It takes up any slop between the throttle lever and gov. arm.
If you adjusted the gov. arm per the manual, it should be OK.
At any rate, the gov. ain't likely to be causing that problem.
You absolutely need a carb mtg. gasket, as well as one or more on the heat shield/insulator etc. Prolly suckin air.. Get the gaskets.
As previously mentioned, I always use Permatex spray gasket, either Hi-tack red or Copper coat.
Ya also wanna go over the valve adjustment.
Have fun.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Yes, did that valve adjustment a long time ago, it may just be time to do it again ... fun fun ... I put the gasket on order .... amazing they get 5 bucks to put a gasket in an envelope and mail it.
 
#7 ·
When I picked up an old FC420 Metro it was a bear to cold start because the choke was not closing all the way. After adjusting it was a one or two-pull starter.

At full throttle lever application verify movement of the choke rod. With it still at full, verify that the choke butterfly is all the way closed. Adjust the screw as needed.



 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
SO, During my waiting for a gasket to arrive, I figured what the heck, lets replace the fuel line and put in a new plug too. SO off to Advance to get a NGK BPR5ES ... they tell me they dont have a plain BPR5ES, but have a BPR5ES-11 which is suppose to be the same, but just a tad hotter. Any problems using this ? Might even help a little .. or will it hinder?
Thanks .. dont want to make things worse.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Done ... returned the -11 , found some standard BPR5ES. Now as for the Gap. I've read anywhere from .28 - .35 . What gap is actually used here.
My original manual from 1990 says 28-31, I've been using .30
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Ok, I'll load it up, taker to the beach and let it soak for about 30 minutes ... Thanks a lot ... I'll put all this advice into practice here and see if I can get this old beast running. I think Im going to buy another machine regardless. Im stuck buying a standard lawn tractor style, So Im considering the Husky TS354XD. Any thoughts on these ? It looks like they might be the closest to a commercial machine without going to a 0 turn (which I cant do... )
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
So. I made as many adjustments as I could, very minor ... switched out the fuel line from the pump to the carb. And put in a new plug. Mower cranked immediately. Ran very well. Ran it for 20 minutes or so.. no problems at all. On restart, starting was a bit harder, but still not bad. Pulled the plug, see pictures.. I never saw half the plug getting carbon.. any ideas on this? I wiped it off, pretty much just fell off. Reinstalled. And mower cranks at the touch of the key. Seems like I'm very close here.
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#20 ·
You have a rich condition. Is your air filter clean? Once the engine is warm, are you sure your choke is fully open at idle and stays fully open all the way to full throttle? If the choke is fully open, It could be a carb adjustment. Refer to the service manual that @Breezmeister posted. Go to page 15 and adjust the slow idle adjustment utilizing the pilot screw. If you are still having the same issue, you could have an issue with the carb, such as a high float level. The other thing that can cause fouling is a weak spark.
 
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Ronlud
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