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Kawasaki fc420V driving me insane

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Walker56 said:
You have a rich condition. Is your air filter clean? Once the engine is warm, are you sure your choke is fully open at idle and stays fully open all the way to full throttle? If the choke is fully open, It could be a carb adjustment. Refer to the service manual that @Breezmeister posted. Go to page 15 and adjust the slow idle adjustment utilizing the pilot screw. If you are still having the same issue, you could have an issue with the carb, such as a high float level. The other thing that can cause fouling is a weak spark.
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So, how do you measure the RPM ? Is there an easy way to do this ? I'm basically doing that part by ear..
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Walker56 said:
Get a tachometer. It is a great tool to have if you perform your own repairs.
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Well, my carb gasket showed up, so I installed it.. and rechecking the instructions for setting the idle.. i pretty much did that.. but by ear.. with the exception of the final 1/4 turn. So i did that. (Added that final 1/4 turn,) I cleaned the plug, and had my wife run it around mulching in leaves for 45 minutes or so.
I pulled the plug,... No carbon.. looks just like a well behaving spark plug should look. It starts a bit harder..but for a mower that's 30 years old, this is great!!! Thanks again everyone for your help.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
So. After thinking this problem has been solved... I go to just move the tractor this morning.. and , yup. It wont start.... after cranking and choking for a while, I give up and pull the plug, its wet.. like I've flooded it.. but that's all. I go ahead and put my spare new plug in, It coughs a little but finally starts. Maybe I do need a hotter plug.. regardless.. I'm off to buy a new mower.. I'll still try to work on this one, but it cant just not start the day after using it. If I do try a hotter plug.. should I try the bpr 5es-11 ? And just leave the gap set at whatever the factory is ?
 
#25 · (Edited)
You flooded the engine. Of course a new plug will get the engine started. A hotter plug is not the answer and the -11 plug is really not made for a .030 gap and a 043 gap that it comes with is to large for your ign system. A hotter plug will gas foul just as easily when flooded. So, you need to check your valves again to be sure they are still set properly. Put an inline spark tester in. Maybe you are having a weak spark issue. Start with the basics. Ensure that your choke is working properly.
@Breezmeister posted the manual. @BigFish gave you advice. Take a step back and take another look.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Walker56 said:
You flooded the engine. Of course a new plug will get the engine started. A hotter plug is not the answer and the -11 plug is really not made for a .030 gap and a 043 gap that it comes with is to large for your ign system. A hotter plug will gas foul just as easily when flooded. So, you need to check your valves again to be sure they are still set properly. Put an inline spark tester in. Maybe you are having a weak spark issue. Start with the basics. Ensure that your choke is working properly.
@Breezmeister posted the manual. @BigFish gave you advice. Take a step back and take another look.
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Ok. Will take a while to do the valve re-check.. and I'll buy an online spark checker. Just seems odd how it can run so well, but overnight fail to start.
 
#27 ·
Ronlud said:
Ok. Will take a while to do the valve re-check.. and I'll buy an online spark checker. Just seems odd how it can run so well, but overnight fail to start.
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It may have failed to start because of over choking, gas fouling the plug. Once a plug is wet, it will not fire properly. Checking the simple things will help rule out what may have caused it.
 
#31 ·
IDK about that checker. I have used this one fer years. Gives a clear view of spark :
https://www.pantanopowerequipment.c...echo-oem-echo-pet-4000-pulse-ignition-checker-kv-tester-oppama-99051130023.html

Oregon # 42-087 is similar to the Oppama unit, and prolly way cheaper.
Either Oregon unit should be fine fer occasional use.
The float is non adjustable on them carbs. Could be a worn inlet needle or seat.
Nuthin odd about it not startin...as explained, just flooded, is all. Too much choke. Try startin with less than full choke. And yeah, most Kaw need full choke to start, but ...
 
#32 ·
Ronlud said:
Does that one show you the actual spark, so you can judge the strength ? Not sure if I trust the bulb type.. definatly will check the valves.. could it be the float being to high ? I read that somewhere...
Click to expand...
I have both the one I suggested to you (on the left) and the one that BigFish also suggested (on the right).
When I want to leave a tester in place to check for intermittent spark issues, I use the one on the left. It is fine for a quick visual check especially if left on a running engine. In addition, the more sophisticated tester, on the right, has to have the gap set manually based on the equipment you are working on to get accurate readings

Image
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I recieved my spark tester today, so I gave it a quick try during lunch.
Attaching it through the spark plug. I get a spark, and its whitish blue..kind of thin but still would lead me to believe good.. but attaching straight to ground the spark is much stronger and is reddish. Which seems backwards ... attached picture of my tester.

Image
 
#35 ·
Ronlud said:
I recieved my spark tester today, so I gave it a quick try during lunch.
Attaching it through the spark plug. I get a spark, and its whitish blue..kind of thin but still would lead me to believe good.. but attaching straight to ground the spark is much stronger and is reddish. Which seems backwards ... attached picture of my tester.

View attachment 374821
Click to expand...
Hook up the tester inline with the plug installed in the head and start the engine. You should see a consistent sharp bright blue spark. An orange spark (reddish) with the engine running normally means a weak ignition system. The reddish spark that you see when the tester is hooked straight to ground could come from a poor ground connection.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Yes, it has an igniter. That and the coil and regapping the valves are all on the list for this weekend. I would also have thought if the igniter is bad, it would have no spark.. but maybe it can cause a weak spark.. when the engine does start. It runs fine.. it's just getting it to crank over for the first time.
 
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Ronlud
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