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Hustler Super Z Clutch Replacement

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Okay Guys & any Gals;

Need some help fast :-
  • Do I go with a Hustler part (No. 601311K) at about x 3 times the cost of an after market?
  • If I go after market, do I go for a clutch with a higher torque specification than recommended (bearing in mind that the last after market, "spit the dummy " at only 75 hrs service)?
 
#22 ·
Hustler clutch. Is there a Ogura clutch option for your machine, I think Jthomas Parts sells them here.
 
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Discussion starter · #25 ·
Back again! - Received my new Hustler PTO Clutch - Looks way heavier duty than the Xtrem. Hope looks are not deceiving.

Kit comes with:
  • New clutch of course, separate wire harness (not sure I like the plastic connecter on the clutch itself, looks vulnerable),
  • Two alternative stop pegs,
  • Two alternative crank shaft bolts (one with lock tape)
  • And new nuts bolts, washers for everything.
  • Installation, instructions, pretty basic but OK - nothing on post installation burnishing.
Got it all installed - looks great AND THEN I started to worry. In the instructions it requires that:

1. The D plug does not contact the bottom of the crankshaft - how should I determine this? Dismantle, put a bit of "putty" on the crankshaft, reassemble, dismantle and check putty "squish" thickness? If shows no space, how to engineer a space? grind D plug or crank end??

2. There should be both vertical & horizontal movement of the clutch (free play). Lateral all good. No apparent vertical - how to fix??
 
#27 ·
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
#29 ·
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#30 ·
Sounds like you just had some bad luck or used the wrong clutch for that machine.

I had my doubts about electric blade clutches when they first came on the market back when I ran dixie choppers with manual blade engagement but in the proceeding 20 years and about ten machines with electric clutches I have never had one outright fail...I had one that had a bearing seize up in it and one that got destroyed when the belt snapped and wrapped all around it and gat cinched tight which forced it in between the clutch plates.

Try to start and stop blades at around 3/4 throttle give or take a bit depending on hp and deck size...your just trying find a happy medium where the engine can still start the blades spinning without bogging much but not so fast that it puts un needed wear and tear on the clutch.

One thing I really miss from my exmark with red was how it automatically adjusts engine speed before starting or stopping the blades.
 
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#31 ·
Dawson said:
Try to start and stop blades at around 3/4 throttle give or take a bit depending on hp and deck size...your just trying find a happy medium where the engine can still start the blades spinning without bogging much but not so fast that it puts un needed wear and tear on the clutch.
Click to expand...
I can't say if its good or bad but I've found that if I start my mower moving at a 3-4 mph the help of the inertia in the pumps pumping oil helps me engage the clutch at an even lower throttle setting, just above idle with my 35 hp Kawi.

Edit: This is with a 72" with high lifts on it.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Thanks guys; I usually engage my clutch at about 1/2 -3/4 engine speed and disengage just above idle.

Have just done about 5 hrs mowing using the new PTO clutch - all went very well.

However still have those niggling doubts about the installation, so would appreciate any advise on PTO clutch installation (see the earlier questions I posted).
 
#33 ·
The two times I've replaced one it was pretty basic, remove old one (the hard part) slide the new one on, tighten thread locked bolt, afix the clutch arm so it can't spin, plug power back in. Good to go.

If you got the clutch that is specked for your mower and engine and used the hardware it came with or the original hardware you should be fine.
 
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Skippydiesel
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