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We are pretty lucky around here. You take a piece of 1" schedule 40, and attach it to a 3/4" male adaper. Screw on a brass fish scaler end, one of those things that pin points the water in a pressure type spray. On the other end, you attach a female hose adapter. Make sure the Schedule 40 is long enough to go under the drive, then dig a 2x2x2 hole at the opposite side where you bore. Turn the hose on and apply pressure. In about 20 minutes, you will have bored to the other side of the drive. If you need more sleeving, just put one in right next to the one you did.

Once in a while you hit a rock, but not often. Works slick.
 
There are 2 ways that I bore under 20 ft driveways.

Good ol schedule 40 pipe with a high water pressure nozzle and a similar tool to the borzit, but mine was called bore-it. Same exact tool but was unable to determine who made the borzit.

I can go to sandy soil to very rocky hard clay. The latter, I use the borit tool.

For the bore-it tool, need a good heavy duty quality 1/2"chuck drill and a good pair of heavy duty gloves. I've done a 45' shot with the borit tool. It take more prep time with the borit tool than using PVC and high pressure. Also, something that I learned, at the end I am boring from, I dig a good coffee can size hole for the water and silt to settle into, at the same time, I have a worker with a bilge pump out the water. Watch out if you hit a rock bigger than a golf ball. The bit will dislodge it eventually, but this is where you get the smashed knuckles. Got the scars to prove it.
If you choose this tool, suppose to use galvanize pipe, work with no more than 5 ft sections. Also, watch your level!. On that 45' shot, I ended up 6 " below from my starting point. A way that you can keep the pipe level, get two fence post(the kind they use on ranches and farms) of the same height, weld a two inch ring one post (6" from bottom)and two smaller size rings , at top of each post or even a flat piece of metal for aiming the pipe. It works, but is a real pain in but.

I bore for some people, if I have to dig the trenches, I charge $16 a foot or if they dig the ditches I need to my specs, $7 a foot. I won't do a shot longer than 20' though.

John
 
MD Irrigator? You have missles for rent in your area? We have no such things.......

True the driving will make your forearms like Popeye's, but he's only doing the one.

And I have to ask whats the set-up time like to bore-

I know nothing of rocky ground- even, I don't dig the ground I live in. Which is Sand, sandy soils, and loam maybe.
 
MD Irrigator? You have missles for rent in your area? We have no such things.......


There are 3 places that rent them ,I only get them when the angle of approach doesnt let me use boring rods. 200.00 a day with out a compressor



And I have to ask whats the set-up time like to bore


All I do is drop the blade and cut 2 slices 6 inches apart , remove grass and dig the dirt out , trench is about 6 ft long. Set up and boring adverages 20 minutes
 
I'm no irrigation guy, but I'll still throw in my 2 cents.:D

When we've needed to go under sidewalks for low voltage landscape lighting, we have found the easiest thing to do is pound a pipe through. Granted, a 4' wide sidewalk is a little bit smaller than a 20' driveway, but the concept should still be the same....

Here's how I would attempt to do it, short of spending the money on one of those Borezit tools:

Dig a trench that is slightly deeper than the driveway concrete. Trench needs to be about 15' long.

Get metal conduit (or normal pipe), big enough to slip the PVC into. The conduit will be a sleeve, as was suggested in an earlier post. I think conduit comes in 10' sections....

Thread the ends of the conduit and add a short section to the end of one piece. The short section will be the "beating section".

Here's what I would do differently than anyone else. Flatten the end of the conduit that is the leading end. Don't cap it. Put the end of it on the driveway, and flatten one side, turn over and flatten the other side. The end needs to be completely closed, lest you end up with a pipe full of gravel and dirt (trust me, I found this out the hard way the first time I did this).

Start pounding the pipe through. When you get to within a foot or so of the first section being completely under the drive, take off the "beater" section, and add on the second section. Continue until the pipe comes out the other side of the driveway.

Cut off the beating end, as well as the flattened end, and put the PVC through.

I timed myself on the last sidewalk I did like this, and from start to finish (begining to dig the trench until the flattened end was cut off), took 15 minutes. That was a 4' walk and 3/4" conduit, so I would have to guess that a 20' drive would probably take me around an hour or so with a slightly bigger pipe.

HTH. Let us know what you end up doing.


Dan
 
to get under my drive I hooked up one of those cylindrical nozzles to a garden hose, ran it inside a 10 foot length of 1-1/4" PVC, dug a trench on the entry side, then turned on the water and started pushing. Helps to twist the PVC while you push, and make sure the nozzle is near the end of the PVC as you go. This probably wouldn't work if you hit a rock or tree root though. I was under my 13-foot drive in just a few minutes (had to stop and glue on another piece of PVC). If you try this, make sure the bell end of the PVC is toward you, on the side you are pushing from, to avoid unnecessary resistance.
My boss wouldn't let me bring our $130,000 HDD rig over to my house to do the job, but that is an option if all else fails!!! Good Luck
 
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