Lawn Care Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

Jasonn B

· Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’m located in Hershey, PA. My 2006 M60 Tank (made by Lesco) is leaking hydraulic fluid. I've had this machine since 2007 and it's been a great mower. I use it on my own residential lawn which is about 2 acres, has about 500 hours. The thing has been solid as a tank and and no real issues. Today, I could barely make it up a hill and knew something was wrong. I don't have a good mower shop around that's trust worthy and wondering if this is something you guys can guide me with on what to check. Thank you!

 
If you are sure it’s hydraulic fluid, then I would check the entire hydraulic system from hose to hydros and reservoir including the hydraulic fluid filter if so equipped. Looks like it’s leaking above that spindle and spraying everywhere When it hits the pulley while running.
 
Advice is based on what I can see. The lower seal is leaking (?). 9 times out of 10, something caused it to leak. The input shaft brg might have failed. Pump has to come out and be inspected. Usually the debris stay put. Sometimes it doesn’t.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thank you both for the replies. The lines seem to look good with no leaks at the lines just the dripping coming off that pulley. I can work on cars but I rarely touch this mower except to change blades and the place I used to go to went out of business. If anyone on here is near Hershey Pennsylvania also, let me know 😀
 
Oh gosh I hate oil leaks, mostly because of the detective work...

You will need time, rags, and gasoline.
Then in an open well-ventilated space start cleaning as much of that oil off as you can, gasoline soaked rags work well for that purpose.
Wouldn't hurt to chase into some nooks and corners with compressed air.
I'd suggest starter fluid but that stuff can strip paint, you may have to resort to it if you can't get compressed air or in some tight spots...
You need to get it all as clean as possible, that will make finding the source of the leak much easier.

At this point see if you can visually locate the leak...
If not, refill the reservoir and try again.
If you still don't see it start the mower and keep looking, it might be obvious then.

Some spots to look into:
All along hoses, and where they connect.
Hoses can crack and split anywhere along the way, they can leak at the connections as well.
Visually inspect the motors, the pump, the reservoir tank.

Hopefully it's a simple fix.
 
You will need time, rags, and gasoline.
Then in an open well-ventilated space start cleaning as much of that oil off as you can, gasoline soaked rags work well for that purpose
Good Lord just don't follow this advise. Only Hacks say to use gas. Just never do this.
Get engine degreser, and a good water nozzle. You can use brake clean, carb cleaner as well. There's also some good water soluble cleaners as well.
 
Good Lord just don't follow this advise. Only Hacks say to use gas. Just never do this.
Get engine degreser, and a good water nozzle. You can use brake clean, carb cleaner as well. There's also some good water soluble cleaners as well.
Carb cleaner is ether based which is the same thing as starting fluid, I just got done saying it can (and will) strip paint... Years of using these fluids has taught me that, you being the expert should know these things. Brake cleaner not everyone has around, same with engine degreaser, it may require a trip to the store which costs time and money too, most of us have gasoline readily available and it works by dissolving the oil because they're both petrol based... I suppose you could use diesel like your name says but that's oily itself so it may not leave a dry clean surface, not to mention again not everyone has ULSD sitting around.

Please be respectful, thank you now.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
UPDATE. Started the mower today to looked at the pump and noticed the center spindle is wobbling a little when running, so I think it's the bearing that went out inside the pump. I've asked around and found a highly recommended shop that can rebuild the pump in a few days if I bring them the pump. If I drop off the mower and they have to remove/reinstall it will be 3-4 weeks, everyone is backed up with it being peak season. SO my best option is to remove this pump myself and drop it off. This is the shop and met the guy in person who rebuilds these all the time.


(Most shops don't offer rebuilding, just new pumps which can be much more and take much longer)

Now I just need to figure out how to remove the pump
 
UPDATE. Started the mower today to looked at the pump and noticed the center spindle is wobbling a little when running, so I think it's the bearing that went out inside the pump. I've asked around and found a highly recommended shop that can rebuild the pump in a few days if I bring them the pump. If I drop off the mower and they have to remove/reinstall it will be 3-4 weeks, everyone is backed up with it being peak season. SO my best option is to remove this pump myself and drop it off. This is the shop and met the guy in person who rebuilds these all the time.


(Most shops don't offer rebuilding, just new pumps which can be much more and take much longer)

Now I just need to figure out how to remove the pump
So, did he fix it?
Interesting you say he rebuilds non rebuildable pumps. You mean he repairs them? There is a vast difference between rebuilding and repairing. If it was truly rebuilt, it would cost as much as a new pump or more. That pump new is what, like $600? Nobody would waste the labor to truly rebuild a hydro piston pump when a new one is that cheap. Now, split it and put in a new shaft bearing and seal, yeah, I can see that. As long as the shaft is still good. But he isn’t going to lap the rotor block (or install a new one), install and fit new pistons and slippers, lap and install new rotor plates, bearings and seals, plus clean up the case, replace the swashplate shaft... etc, etc.... for less than the cost of a new pump.
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
A new pump was $1,100 and backordered. I'll update this post again soon. Now, by the cap it says only to use 15w 40 Rimula. Others have said you can use 15w 50. Not sure
Image


Edit, see below. This clears up A LOT now!

Shell Rimula SAE 15W-40 Oil
Aug 8, 2017•FAQ


ARTICLE NUMBER
000002238
PROBLEM
Where can I purchase Shell Rimula SAE 15W-40 Oil?
SOLUTION
Shell Rimula® SAE 15W-40 oil is no longer available from Shell.
It has been replaced with Shell Rotella® SAE 15W-40 oil.
Shell Rotella® SAE 15W-40 oil is available from most Authorized Cub Cadet Service Centers and from our Cub Cadet Online Parts Store.
Shell Rotella® SAE 15W-40 oil is available from Cub Cadet Parts Direct in a case of one quart (1 qt.) bottles only at this time and may be ordered as Cub Cadet service part number 737-04325QT.

 
Yup, I have a similar deal where I live, hydraulic shop rebuilds my motors for $250 each, just take it off, bring it to them, wait a few days to a week or two, pick it back up and reinstall.
Best thing I've found in a long time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scott87
1 - 18 of 18 Posts