What are you guys having success with. Sulfentrazone is ok, Vexis actually works, but will stunt the St Augustine if over applied, and I have way too much turf for that. I’m looking at Celero ( imazosulfuron) to try next.
Kyllinga control
FLwater
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Certainty+Quicksilver. Blanket spray do not spot spray.
Ok, why. That's a bit of a hot mix why wouldn't I spot it.
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My experience with it is it works but it's slow. But it will work.
K
kinda like myself
If you're worried about "hotness" leave out the QS
If you want them gone blanket, if you want to chase them all season spot, think fire ants
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A hot mix is best applied as a blanket spray. Furthermore, Quicksilver is pretty mild on even St Augustine under varying conditions. I typically apply 1 oz Certainty and up to 2 oz Quicksilver per acre in 50 gallons per acre boom sprayed. 1/2% Methylated Seed Oil as the surfactant. Temperatures up to the low 90s. This is how I get Kyllinga gone so it does not have to be chased around all year long. Sulfentrazone is a different deal. I take that out of the applications once temperatures go above 85. In lawns where I know Kyllinga and Nutsedge are a problem they get a total of 12 oz per acre applied as a 3 split application starting in early spring unless it is Zeon Zoysia. Zeon Zoysia reacts very adversely to Sulfentrazone.
Thanks for the recommendations. I am not recommending you do it this way, but it worked just fine for me. Applied in 96 degree heat with a Zspray This is 3 weeks or so later
Certainty 1.25oz/A
Dimension .55oz/1000
BioPlex Fulvic power 1.5oz/A
Micro Mix 3oz/1000
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Certainty 1.25oz/A
Dimension .55oz/1000
BioPlex Fulvic power 1.5oz/A
Micro Mix 3oz/1000
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If I am concerned about delayed recovery/tip burn from an application, I modify the application as follows: No Sulfentrazone. Add 4 oz/M UMAXX. NIS rather than MSO. So a spray would look like label rate Certainty, 1 oz per acre Quicksilver. 4 oz/M UMAXX, and 0.25% NIS.
I’ve never had issues with the heat. Even running blindside. That had me a bit puckered having never run certainty before and at low volume. The micro mix is a standard for me these days and replaced running iron with herbicides. Just seems to work for me.
Thanks for the tip !
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I keep Iron and anything besides straight N fertilizers out of a solution containing a Sulfonylurea herbicide. Do not want interference with the AI.
Interesting, did not know that. I gave up on iron years ago, never did much for me. However , I did try Site Ones new Spar Tech and was impressed.
Approx 16 gal /A
At high temps I go up in volume, 1 gallon per k.
I get that. When I realized the temp I did recalibrate the sprayer on site. I don’t remember what exactly it was but I ran the pressure up to 40 psi instead of my normal 30 (which gives me the approx 16 gal/A. ) so I had a bit more water.
At 1gal/K I would have to swap nozzles and only get 60K / tank. Not that big of a deal I guess, still beats pulling a hose.
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I know they say there are no stupid questions but I do feel somewhat stupid asking this but I’m genuinely very interested @FLwater regarding the bioplex fulvic powder I looked it up since I’m not familiar with it. And I see suggestions of 1 to 2 qts per A so here’s the stupid part on my question … obviously you see benefits in using it or you wouldn’t so I’m curious as to what benes you are getting from the low rate per A if you care to share if not all good. Just interested and learning from those that know a heck of a lot more than me.
My experience with Humic , Fulvic , etc began last year when we picked up a property with approx 160k sq ft of Empire Zoysia, so take this for what it is. There are plenty of people here who know more than me.
I have been dealing with zoysia in Atlanta for years and never really had an issue. Now in FL , we picked up this property January 2021 that responded to NOTHING. In June I was maybe 70% green. I had several soil test done and site visits with my chemical reps. Nobody had any suggestions. I had run a typical pre-m, 2 lbs of fert program up till then. I had dollarspot everywhere so I knew I had a soil issue. Even a visit to the local extension office where the agronomist said , yeah the soil around here sucks.
I called a buddy of mine in the business who uses “weird” stuff on his turf. He recommend RGS from Green County Fert. After some research, RGS is humic , Fulvic and sea kelp. That was something I had only heard of in passing from my golf course buddies. Anyway, couldn’t get RGS fast enough so the closest I could come up with was CARBON PRO L from site one.
I had put down a bio solid fert in late May ( dates May be off a bit ) and got no reaction after a couple weeks. That’s when I put the Carbon Pro. 2 weeks later the turf finally popped and my dollar spot started disappearing. My thought process is that the combination of the bio soilids and then the humid, finally freed up the nutrients for the grass to uptake. That’s the purpose of the humic to begin with. Another round 6-8 weeks later and I had adequate zoysia for the season.
This year, I put down a triple rate of Howard’s Black Bio in January, at the manufactures recommendation and another round of humic (RGS I think) in late March with my Specticle. By April, I was about 70% green, two months early. Adding more Humic and my “ something special” the last 2 rounds has given me what you see.
Someone on here knows all the scientific reasons why humic works, I don’t. All I can tell you is thatfrom my observations the addition of humic has freed up the nutrients in the soil so the grass can use them. That is extremely obvious on the zoysia property because the dollar spot disappeared last year and has not been back this year. Oh, the zoysia property has only had 1 app of N this year. On the St Augustine, my color and growth are much improved, the properties above have never looked that good. The addition of humic is the only change I’ve made to the program.
I will say, my “something special” on the zoysia property is a product I used on zoysia and fescue in Atlanta for a few years before I moved. I had tremendous results. It is a soil conditioner /pro biotic that I affectionately call “snake oil”. It doesn’t seem to do much for St Augustine. I will talk about it in about 2 weeks when I put another round down. That will give me 2 apps that have been down for about 12 weeks. That allows enough time to make sure it’s working like it has in the past. PM me if your interested and I’ll pass the info along now.
long post sorry. To sum it up, I have used cheap to expensive humic formulations and like the results I’m getting. The BioPlex is another recommendation from my buddy so I’m interested to see how it works. If your going to try it, use something middle to high tier and run at at least the full rate for 2 apps.
@kemco ok, got a little excited last night and didn’t actually answer your question. The BioPlex came from my buddy who originally recommended the Humic. It’s a product he has used before in PA and likes it. He really gets excited about the yucca extract as a moisture manager. Im not so convinced of that but we will see. It’s not the cheapest @ $94/gal by the case but it has the same mix as Carbon pro with more. I ran it initially at 1.5 oz/ 1000 and wil subsequently run it at 1 oz on future apps. I will let y’all know how it works.
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