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Aeration + Overseeding: how deep should plugs be?

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#41 ·
SlowMowTurf said:
3 photos of 1 of 2 lawns I'm slice seeding. I'm thinking this is absolute candidate for slice seeding rather than aerate/overseed. I'll put down Kentucky Blue Grass Blend at 7# per 1K square feet. I will hit all those tree suckers in front lawn with glyphosate 4 days before overseeding. Photo are far right is 'best shot' photo so looks decisively better than it really is.

Do others agree this should be slice seeded, not aerate/overseeded?

View attachment 519771 View attachment 519772 View attachment 519773
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Aerator would be just as effective. Possibly even better if that area is compacted.

You can gly and seed the same day. No need to wait 4 days, just wait til it’s dried.
 
#42 ·
Same day OK for gly spray--so I have heard.
I would suggest a ryegrass--bluegrass mix. (Top quality, improved types.) Maybe fescue, if irrigation cannot keep up.
And do not start until irrigation is fixed.
Green grass under the trees indicates this lawn burned out in the hot sun. Eight weeks before frost is a good date.
Include starter fert, lime as necessary. Soil test is smart plan.
Double check for signs of insects or disease.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
RigglePLC said:
Same day OK for gly spray--so I have heard.
I would suggest a ryegrass--bluegrass mix. (Top quality, improved types.) Maybe fescue, if irrigation cannot keep up.
And do not start until irrigation is fixed.
Green grass under the trees indicates this lawn burned out in the hot sun. Eight weeks before frost is a good date.
Include starter fert, lime as necessary. Soil test is smart plan.
Double check for signs of insects or disease.
Click to expand...
Glyphosate where needed will go down tomorrow or Sunday (weather permitting). I'm using Stinger Super Seeder on this one.

Seeding will be Thursday weater permitting.

Customer says fert/herbicide company burned lawn several years ago. Also last summer was super hot/draught here so he lost
more due to super sunny conditions, heat, & draught.

Right now leaning towards KBG blend (90% KBG, 10% Rye).
Will talk to seed guys about KBG blend VS 70%KBG, 30% Rye blend. Seed comes from company that blends for my area (Twin Cities, MN).

Customer has irrigation system, I just think he doesn't run it enough. Will encourage him to get rain gauges and measure how long it takes
his system to put down .5" water so he does that next summer.
 
#45 ·
I always thought you had to wait longer after spraying. I’m not sure why. What if you spray 2-4-d ? Is there a wait period? We do our early spring so usually spray after new seed has filled in.
 
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Discussion starter · #46 ·
I think from everyone's input on lawnsite (this thread and one other), I got a good game plan for all 3 lawns I will tackle. Just up to customers to follow up with keeping seed moist until germination. All 3 have irrigation systems, so pretty sure they will.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
#49 ·
JFGLN said:
I always thought you had to wait longer after spraying. I’m not sure why. What if you spray 2-4-d ? Is there a wait period? We do our early spring so usually spray after new seed has filled in.
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Depends on whose 2-4D. Speedzone is labeled for 1 week and it has 2-4D in it.
 
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Discussion starter · #51 ·
Cut n Strut said:
So making 2 trips to a property instead of 1 is better because?
Click to expand...
MOST recommend glyphosate + wait 3 days to let product translocate down into roots. Some say you 'can' do it that day or even wait a few days after. I'm doing MOST recommended way. This lawn has choke cherry suckers all over and want to give glyphosate best chance to work.

Same thing for lawn weeds. Let them grow out a bit so bigger leaf area can take in more product. Wait a couple days for product to translocate before chopping off leaves. If one was to spray and then mow immediately after, doing so would be throwing out a good percentage of herbicide before in translocated...
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Here's Purdue U take on seeding after glyphosate:
turf.purdue.edu

Renovating Turf: How long should I wait to seed after a glyphosate (Roundup) application?

I have received a number of email questioning the wait for seeding after glyphosate applications. Glyphosate has no soil activity and will therefore not affect seedlings when seeded even the same day of application. However, for maximum control of tough-to-control weeds with stolons or rhizomes, a 7
turf.purdue.edu turf.purdue.edu
Purdue says OK to seed same day, recommends 7 day wait for maximum control.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Crazy 4 grass said:
Why not seed first, then gly on the way out the door? No wait at all then.
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If I seeded 1st and glyphosate on way out the door, I think I'd NOT be as effective on those damn choke cherry suckers. I want maximum leaf area to hold/intake glyphosate and then give it a couple days to translocate.
 
#54 ·
SlowMowTurf said:
MOST recommend glyphosate + wait 3 days to let product translocate down into roots. Some say you 'can' do it that day or even wait a few days after. I'm doing MOST recommended way. This lawn has choke cherry suckers all over and want to give glyphosate best chance to work.

Same thing for lawn weeds. Let them grow out a bit so bigger leaf area can take in more product. Wait a couple days for product to translocate before chopping off leaves. If one was to spray and then mow immediately after, doing so would be throwing out a good percentage of herbicide before in translocated...
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The weed control, sure but I have customers who don’t listen and cut within 24 hours. Never had any complaints. Also have customers who don’t water anything in, still works.

On the gly deal, I do it all the time and have had 0 issues with grass germinating or dying after germination. Wait 3 days and make 2 trips if you like, makes no difference to me but you don’t have to wait and make a separate trip. You’ll get the same results either way.
 
#55 ·
SlowMowTurf said:
If I seeded 1st and glyphosate on way out the door, I think I'd NOT be as effective on those damn choke cherry suckers. I want maximum leaf area to hold/intake glyphosate and then give it a couple days to translocate.
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Generally, in the weed control world, you want to treat weeds when their as young as possible. Letting weeds grow for “maximum leaf area” is the exact opposite of what is ideal.

Also, it’d make no difference if you seeded first and gly’d out the door as opposing to gly, wait 3 days then seed. Makes absolutely 0 difference.

Don’t overthink it.
 
#56 ·
RigglePLC said:
I think more holes --and as you suspect--not so deep is the best bet.
I do not do aeration seeding.
Experienced guys--what is your experience?
What type of soil?
What species of seed?
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I'm cold weather. NY. Usually sun shade mix. Bluegrass, Fescue, and some Rye. I've had tremendous results in the spring, aerating, seeding, and fertilizing all at the same time. So many people say not to, but you can't argue with the results. Hell, I've even limed as well on a lawn that was reading a 5, and it was sprouting like crazy within 5 days. I think if it's really compact, and has been neglected, then deeper plugs. If you really have to amend the soil with crazy amounts of fertilizer, then I'd probably wait a bit for that, or do it prior, especially if direct sun and water are issues. Otherwise two inches works for me,but I usually do about 3 inches with the Billy Goat. If it's bad bad, I just double pass it.
 
#60 ·
Remember overseeding will not cure a shade problem--but a shade-adapted seed will help--of course. Fine fescue--or--turf-type tall fescue are the usual choices.
Neither will an overseed cure a poor irrigation problem.

I suspect that if aeration were suited for overseeding the manufacturers would advertise this idea, and show photographs with side-by-side comparisons with conventional seeding methods.
 
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