Lawn Care Forum banner
1 - 20 of 36 Posts

ginnykruse83

· Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi there! I have a Cub Cadet 50 inch hydrostatic lawn tractor with the Kawasaki FR691V engine I recently replaced the carburetor on my machine, which went as straight forward as one would hope. Except in doing so, somehow the governor ended up all out of sorts. ( I think my nephew may have had something to do with it). I have tried every which way from Sunday to try and get her back to the appropriate settings to no avail. I have the service manual for both the tractor in it's entirety and just for the specific engine. I'm stuck... Push mowing a 2+ acre yard is getting real old, real quick. Anyone have a little experience with this PLEASE HELP¡
 
Take a picture of the springs and carb area, maybe just hooked up wrong. What is it doing?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Breezmeister
The spring doesn't slow the engine down. When the engine is running, the gov is trying to close the throttle.
The spring is trying to open it. The balance is your governed speed. That's how a governor works.
If the throttle isn't trying to close, with all the crap off it, It might have an internal problem.

You must do a static adjustment first. You will need a manual.
If someone was screwing with it, find out what they did. Undo it.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Of course it is. There is nothing to control it.
The spring doesn't slow the engine down. When the engine is running, the gov is trying to close the throttle.
The spring is trying to open it. The balance is your governed speed. That's how a governor works.
If the throttle isn't trying to close, with all the crap off it, It might have an internal problem.

You must do a static adjustment first. You will need a manual.
If someone was screwing with it, find out what they did. Undo it.
No I took the control panel back off to try and readjust the governor
 
Okay I will go out and take pictures and maybe a short video to show everyone what is going on with the lawn mower
If ONLY a carb replacement were done and no adjustment to the governor.....then most likely it is a linkage issue or the governor spring in the wrong place. We will need to see how the control panel controls the high idle. Some you simply move one direction or the other (increases or decreases the tension on the governor spring). Others you use adjustment screws.

IF the governor has been reset....then you'll want to revisit that as well (per procedures in your manual). Typically you would loosen the bolt on the governor arm, push the arm up so that the carb throttle plate is completely open and while holding in that position, turn the governor shaft to its stop point and re-tighten the governor arm bolt (while all are being held in place).
 
It looks ok. Very simple question. Did you try to adjust the governor after the carb work. If no, why not? I think I explained its operation fairly clearly. With engine running, the gov it trying to close the throttle.
When I work on any Kawasaki with a suspect gov problem, first thing I do is get rid if the idiotic governed idle spring. Usless and totally not needed. More crap an engineer adds
to justify their existence. On a generator, yes. Lawn equipment no.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
It looks ok. Very simple question. Did you try to adjust the governor after the carb work. If no, why not? I think I explained its operation fairly clearly. With engine running, the gov it trying to close the throttle.
When I work on any Kawasaki with a suspect gov problem, first thing I do is get rid if the idiotic governed idle spring. Usless and totally not needed. More crap an engineer adds
to justify their existence. On a generator, yes. Lawn equipment no.

Carb work first then governor adjustments. And I have an extremely intelligent and mechanically inclined 22 year old nephew That recently suffered from a frontal lobe TBI so some times he forgets
 
Sorry to hear that.
Usually, no gov adjustments are needed after carb work.
You seem to be implying he touched something that wasn't needed?
Go to the KMC site and get the manual for your engine.
The equipment manufacturer usually doesnt supply an engine
repair manual. Usually only an owners.
FYI, the screw for the adjustment, if I remember correctly,
is a left hand thread.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Sorry to hear that.
Usually, no gov adjustments are needed after carb work.
You seem to be implying he touched something that wasn't needed?
Go to the KMC site and get the manual for your engine.
The equipment manufacturer usually doesnt supply an engine
repair manual. Usually only an owners.
FYI, the screw for the adjustment, if I remember correctly,
is a left hand thread.
You are correct it is a left handed thread bolt I have the service manual for it. I've read it and 100 times making sure I understood the procedure completely. Still no luck
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
It isn't surging no. I have felt it earlier on in my attempts to get this mower back on the lawn and operating, but not anymore. It starts quite effortlessly most of the time without the choke being engaged nor having to have the throttle lever moved from it's lowest position at all. when when it starts it is just full out balls to the wall.
 
It isn't surging no. I have felt it earlier on in my attempts to get this mower back on the lawn and operating, but not anymore. It starts quite effortlessly most of the time without the choke being engaged nor having to have the throttle lever moved from it's lowest position at all. when when it starts it is just full out balls to the wall.
Well, then it’s either a linkage problem (most likely) or the governor broke.

Pull the air filter off and whatever else you need to see in the carb. Move the throttle lever to idle and see if it is moving the throttle plate in the carb. This isn’t a difficult diagnostic. Should take no more than 15 minutes to determine the problem and fix it, or find out the governor is bad.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
The only way to see if the throttle lever is doing what it is supposed to do inside the carb would be to remove the entire intake and I do not have a new gasket to replace the current one that would most definitely be unusable upon removal. I do know that before putting the carb on the engine the lever on the outside of the carb functioned correctly in correlation to the internal components. And that my throttle lever is moving the throttle in the correct manner. However I did notice last night that the throttle tends to stick keeping it closed when I have the throttle lever at high idol
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts