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Yes I have to say it's not an issue using right hand to control a qwikchute and left hand to adjust deck height, tho it's rare for me to move the deck once set for a property. I would not want a foot activated pedal on the foot platform. Should get better with more experience.
 
It’s 2nd nature and I don’t even do this for a living. I can open shut or partial I’m an instant. If it’s tight I do it on a turn and barely miss a beat. If it’s open I can left hand both controls and operate the blocker and back to controls pretty easily.

I do have to slow if right hand controlling and feather deck, usually because it means I’m on some pretty uneven spots, it if I’m above 3.5” I usually don’t have any problems scalping anyway so don’t worry about it much.
 
Regarding the Wright anti-scalp wheels, look at how much more rugged the Wright design is compared to the Exmark. The Wright has double gussets and a heavier-duty wheel. The Exmark might be located in a better position for some applications, but that wheel will eventually elongate the plastic where the bolt goes through to mount it, and eventually elongate the metal itself. I've been there. Also, with the wheel so far out, yes...the wheel itself might dig a trench, but it makes it less likely for the whole deck to scalp. I see what you mean about chain link fences, that would be a downside. I also agree about an offset deck - my Kubota Z is very offset and it helps.
The Aero-Core deck saw an update, I think in late 2021 or early 2022. The rear of your deck is probably sloped slightly downward. Wright has since done away with that and made the decks a traditional same height across, supposedly to improve cut quality.

Exmark is the gold standard, or at least it used to be. They do a lot of things correctly. I do think the Wright machines are very well made though. Much of your criticisms of the ZK are just general criticisms of standers in general. My own experience is to prefer a ride-on zero turn with lap bars. I tried a ZK-61 with the Kawasaki FX850 and instead purchased a ZXL-61 with the Vanguard 37EFI at the tail end of last year. We'll see how I like it this year.
 
The offset decks and front casters offer trim benefits too. But come at the expense of added overall length, which they try to keep at a minimum on standers, somewhat to their detriment.

Slope nosed decks offer some benefits like good construction, allow the grass room to pop back up after the leading edge of the deck pushes over it, and they can reduce the amount of front blowout from the deck in comparison to eXmark and other straight vertical nose decks. But it does come at a tradeoff of way less front trim ability for those who run up to things and thread them between the casters and scalp wheels.

Grasshopper did the slope nosed deck forever ago, and probably did it best as far as trim ability. This is probably because they make front mount mowers so front trim was on the front of the brain in the development process. They get the front lip of the sloped nose closer to the front blade arc than others. But I still really noticed the difference on commercial properties. Places where I'd run right up to things like sign posts and almost touch them with the front of the deck. I could roundup an unnoticeable small circle at there base that I couldn't cut with the mower and not have to hit around them with the trimmer at all. Same thing with properties with slat fence lines. I could hang the trim side of the deck under the fence and drive right up and put the post right between the caster and the scalp wheel and almost touch the post. No trimming around white fence posts and no trimming under the fence.

Grasshopper was not as good at this because of the slope nose and eXmark was not as good at under fences as the older school decks that had no 45 corner on the trim side where the scalp wheel was a little more outboard but not out so far as to catch chain link. The older school decks had very little distance from the leading edge of the deck to the blade arc, less than the ultracut even. Think Yazoo, Encore, Country Clipper, Great Dane, Gravely... etc, the old stuff. Probably even the early Wright Stander decks.
 
I do like to front trim as well, but rarely can the deck reach everything. If you can't get it with the nose of the deck, you can always back out and come at it sideways with the trim side of the deck. For me anyway, if Wright said "you can customize your mower...do you want the current double-gusset style anti-scalp wheels or do you want the style on that Exmark?" I'd pick what they have now.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Regarding the Wright anti-scalp wheels, look at how much more rugged the Wright design is compared to the Exmark. The Wright has double gussets and a heavier-duty wheel. The Exmark might be located in a better position for some applications, but that wheel will eventually elongate the plastic where the bolt goes through to mount it, and eventually elongate the metal itself. I've been there.
By the time the hole of the Exmark's wheel is worn that far, the outside is shot and ready for replacement.

I've only used the Exmark (2) times so far this season. The deck's exterior design, and anti-scalp wheel placement is FAR superior on the Exmark. It's not even close.

I will say, the axles they use for the anti-scalp wheels seem problematic. Instead of replacing them, I threaded the holes in the mounts on the deck, and installed shoulder bolts. Added a thin, deformed-thread nut on the protruding thread for extra security. They are beyond robust.
 
I am not seeing how a sloped nose deck will help allow the grass to stand back up for a better cut. The grass still has to pass under the inner baffle skirt and they are all vertical on all machines that I have ever seen. Thus, the grass is still being bent over right before the blades hit it. The V+ has the blades set back a bit from the baffle, so that will help, and the 7 Iron has a raised front skirt (approx 1" from the sides and rear) and then the baffle itself is approx 1/2" below that and the blades cutting edges are 1/2" below the baffle so that they make contact with the uncut grass before it is bent very far over.
 
By the time the hole of the Exmark's wheel is worn that far, the outside is shot and ready for replacement.

I've only used the Exmark (2) times so far this season. The deck's exterior design, and anti-scalp wheel placement is FAR superior on the Exmark. It's not even close.

I will say, the axles they use for the anti-scalp wheels seem problematic. Instead of replacing them, I threaded the holes in the mounts on the deck, and installed shoulder bolts. Added a thin, deformed-thread nut on the protruding thread for extra security. They are beyond robust.
I think you meant the Exmark's design is far superior to the Wright's based on your past comments so far?
 
By the time the hole of the Exmark's wheel is worn that far, the outside is shot and ready for replacement.

I've only used the Exmark (2) times so far this season. The deck's exterior design, and anti-scalp wheel placement is FAR superior on the Exmark. It's not even close.

I will say, the axles they use for the anti-scalp wheels seem problematic. Instead of replacing them, I threaded the holes in the mounts on the deck, and installed shoulder bolts. Added a thin, deformed-thread nut on the protruding thread for extra security. They are beyond robust.
Interesting. My Kubota has an extremely similar anti-scalp wheel setup compared to your Exmark, and I've already replaced two of the wheels, and a third is getting loose. My machine is only 3 years old, about 500 hours. I'm assuming it will be many years before dealing with the wheels on the new Wright ZXL.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Interesting. My Kubota has an extremely similar anti-scalp wheel setup compared to your Exmark, and I've already replaced two of the wheels, and a third is getting loose. My machine is only 3 years old, about 500 hours. I'm assuming it will be many years before dealing with the wheels on the new Wright ZXL.
Use (1) of these shoulder screws per anti-scalp wheel. Select the hole in which you'll mount the anti-scalp wheel. Select a 27/64" drill bit, and enlarge the hole. Use a 1/2-13 tap to thread the hole. Add some grease, and install the shoulder screw. Add red Loctite if you want. Then add one of these thin lock nuts for extra security.

I dare say, you could impact something hard enough to knock you out of the seat, and not break these. They are stout.

Alloy Steel Shoulder Screw, 5/8" Shoulder Diameter, 2-1/2" Shoulder Length, 1/2"-13 Thread | McMaster-Carr
Extra-Wide Thin Flex-Top Locknut, for Heavy Vibration, 1/2"-13 Thread Size | McMaster-Carr
 
Thanks. I think I will try that. One of my guys did actually bend the mount that comes off the deck by ramming it while turning, I guess that was one thing I liked about the Wright being double reinforced. But most people don't do that kind of damage! I was able to repair it and reinforced with additional weld.
 
Anti scalp wheels on exmark and deeres and several other ZTR's wear out in short time flat and for me have been more problematic. For whatever reason on my wrights, they do what they're supposed to and run on the ground when they are needed and they also last a long time. You have to make sure you've got the right hole for your typical mow height obviously but that's just been my experience. I"m on my 3rd set on my Deere but that's also 1200 hours so not bad. On my Wrights they show very little wear at 500 hours
As far as offset deck overhang that might be a stander vs ZTR setup, I could be wrong but i've not seen many standers that have offset overhang like you might find on a sit down ZTR.

I still think you need to sell the stander, it's not for you.
 
Discussion starter · #36 · (Edited)
Anti scalp wheels on exmark and deeres and several other ZTR's wear out in short time flat and for me have been more problematic.

<...snip...>

I still think you need to sell the stander, it's not for you.
The anti-scalp wheels are cheap in the grand scheme of things. I wear the trim side wheel the most, so it's not like I have to replace all of them at once.

I'm forcing myself to keep using the ZK. In fact, I've only used the Exmark on one larger account this year. I'm appreciating the extra HP on the ZK.

And the AeroCore deck seems to do really well in overgrown grass. I'm mowing mostly at 4.25". I have (4) washers on the bottom of the spindle, so I'm ass_u_ming that means a true 4" cutting height. I'm finding that I can cut off 4" or more of growth, and 95% of the time it leaves a most satisfactory cut in those conditions. If it weren't for needing to mulch up the excessive clippings, I wouldn't need to double cut most of the time.

Granted, when the grass is overgrown, I have to slow down simply to give the deck time to process the extra volume of grass. But, I think the 37hp Vanguard and the AeroCore deck are a pretty good combo in these overgrown conditions. Granted, not field-cutting conditions, but "this yard should have been cut 2 weeks ago" conditions.

I haven't the time or the patience to try a 1:1 comparison against the Exmark series 6 deck on the same account, in the same conditions. But I think that ^^^ is pretty good performance, and pretty high praise for the Wright/Vanguard/AeroCore.
 
That to me is pretty good because eXmark sets a pretty high bar when it comes to regular weekly cuts on dry prestine turf. Once you get outside of those windows it's a little easier to be impressed with something else. Sounds like you are OK with the cut quality, you just wish it chopped up the clippings finer. You may want to toy with some different blades if you are really trying to hang onto it. Blades that recirculate more, or wavy mulching style blades that have an aggressive lift and down discharge wave. Or maybe even double blades. The eXmark is able to chop those clippings finer because you're working with a deeper tightly baffled chambers. Much from the center gets rechopped once more and much from the left gets rechopped twice more, which is nice when it is just normal amounts of dry grass. So it's a trade off in comparing the two.

I never had 2 eXmarks on the same trailer ever for this reason. That might be something to think about too, because in the end this is also about making money. Load out. If you pull up somewhere and you know the eXmark is going to save you from a double cut then pull it off and use it. That's what I used to do.
 
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Discussion starter · #39 ·
That to me is pretty good because eXmark sets a pretty high bar when it comes to regular weekly cuts on dry prestine turf. Once you get outside of those windows it's a little easier to be impressed with something else. Sounds like you are OK with the cut quality, you just wish it chopped up the clippings finer.
Not really - I'm having to double cut because of the volume of clippings, from heavy growth. Not that they're too long, just that there's too much volume altogether.

In some of these cases, a bagger/collection mower would be great, except that I'd expect the bagger to be quickly overwhelmed.

What I'll do on occasion, is cut it at regular height, and then raise the deck and "re-cut" simply to disperse the clippings. Raising the deck helps more evenly disperse the clippings, rather than just shoot them all to the right, again.

Maybe wavy blades would help with some of this? But hopefully this heavy growth will be slowing down shortly anyway.
 
Discussion starter · #40 · (Edited)
So I finally found the "limit" on the ZK's hillside performance the other day. 😝



Image




So I started at the "bottom" of this hill, and then started turning right/uphill to "escape." Eh, not so much... :LOL:

Thankfully, weather I was concious of it or not, I was already 'planning' to bail. Just before the mower finally slipped and I bailed, I was standing on the platform with only one foot, and basically hanging off to the far right of the machine. Thankfully, when I hopped off, the blades shutoff as designed, and the mower gently came to rest on it's fuel tank next to the truck's bumper. After some man-handling of the front end, I drove it out with only a humurously bruised ego for the day.

I'll say this - undisputably - Standers have FAR SUPERIOR approach/departure angles. Had I been in this same spot on my rider, it would have ended much worse - the rear motor frame would have been planted firmly against the pavement, and would have been much worse to get "un-stuck."
 
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