Is there anything to prevent nutsedge? I know how to control it once started, but I have a few lawns that no matter how many time I treat, they keep getting it every year.
Nut sedge prevention
CrystalCreek
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Is there anything to prevent nutsedge? I know how to control it once started, but I have a few lawns that no matter how many time I treat, they keep getting it every year.
Yes.
Dismiss turf herbicide Label.
The Label is very specific on 60 day suppression for Yellow Nutsedge. I've used it on a few lawns "Blanket App" during a wet season and it worked well in New Jersey.
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As I understand it--nutsedge does not go to seed much--especially when mowed.
However, it has lots of rhizomes.
My usual plan is to treat it with Sedgehammer, and otherwise, to be sure to keep it short so that it cannot send much food to the roots.
At the botanic garden (among the flowers) we pull the biggest nutsedge about this time of year. We do not want it to form nuts and rhizomes for next year. String trim where possible.
However, it has lots of rhizomes.
My usual plan is to treat it with Sedgehammer, and otherwise, to be sure to keep it short so that it cannot send much food to the roots.
At the botanic garden (among the flowers) we pull the biggest nutsedge about this time of year. We do not want it to form nuts and rhizomes for next year. String trim where possible.
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There is no pre for nutsedge. What sedge are we talking about yellow or purple. Mesotrione takes it out very well. Yellow I mean
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It does not seed like crabgrass. A crabgrass pre-emergent will have no effect.
At our local botanic garden nutsedge often arrives as a weed in the soil of purchased trees
and bushes.
In my neighborhood we have a couple serious nutsedge problems in front yards every summer. They are not getting treatments.
My favorites for control: Sedgehammer (halosulfuron) and sulfentrazone.
I suspect this original contamination was result of topsoil brought in to help start a new yard.
The topsoil was likely contaminated with nutsedge roots and rhizomes.
Buy topsoil with care and a bit of skepticism. Ask if there is any nutsedge in the soil you buy. Examine the soil and look for nutsedge rhizomes.
When you find a good source of topsoil--stay with them.
At our local botanic garden nutsedge often arrives as a weed in the soil of purchased trees
and bushes.
In my neighborhood we have a couple serious nutsedge problems in front yards every summer. They are not getting treatments.
My favorites for control: Sedgehammer (halosulfuron) and sulfentrazone.
I suspect this original contamination was result of topsoil brought in to help start a new yard.
The topsoil was likely contaminated with nutsedge roots and rhizomes.
Buy topsoil with care and a bit of skepticism. Ask if there is any nutsedge in the soil you buy. Examine the soil and look for nutsedge rhizomes.
When you find a good source of topsoil--stay with them.
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Vexxis sprinkled on the patches and watered in works. There is also a brand new herbicide out that contains vexxis and can be tank mixed and sprayed.
Grass type ?
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As I understand it==nutsedge dies out in cool weather--and the rhizomes remain. They become active again in spring when the soil temps become warm.
A friend at the botanic garden, suggested Certainty. Mainly for use in warm season grasses.
A friend at the botanic garden, suggested Certainty. Mainly for use in warm season grasses.
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Warm season grasses only. Celero, Halosulfuron, and the two new products from PBI Gordon are options. Sulfentrazone applied in spring is very helpful for reducing Nutsedge emergence and tuber viabilityAs I understand it==nutsedge dies out in cool weather--and the rhizomes remain. They become active again in spring when the soil temps become warm.
A friend at the botanic garden, suggested Certainty. Mainly for use in warm season grasses.
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Warm turf only… In 2021 I began using Echelon (prodiamine plus sulfentrazone) as my 2nd spring pre. The difference was absolutely amazing in the amount of sedges or lack there of. Sure some but maybe 35% or less of what I was used to dealing with.
Based on that test this year I did a mix my own sulfentrazone split app. One with my second pre and one with my urea spray first round fert. I wanted to get as much benefit from it as possible so a little late but it was on purpose. I could ONLY make the numbers work if I used a “quail pro” brand Sulfentrazone that was half the cost of dismiss. I split app with my round 1 and round 2 pre ems. I virtually had no sedges. Again almost yes a little but by far this was even better than Eschelon. The most sedges I’ve seen all year is right now which is incredible because we had an absolutely wet wet spring and thought for sure sedges would be problematic and they absolutely were not.
Caveat that I let all of my customers know was that the first fertilizer round (which included the second half of the split sulfentrazone app) would absolutely discolor the turf for about a week and believe me it did on a few lawns towards the end of the round because temps got up pretty quickly. On a few lawns looked liked i burned them but only for about a week. Plus sulfentrazone kills a number of other weeds as well. Just my real word example. And it worked extremely well.
Based on that test this year I did a mix my own sulfentrazone split app. One with my second pre and one with my urea spray first round fert. I wanted to get as much benefit from it as possible so a little late but it was on purpose. I could ONLY make the numbers work if I used a “quail pro” brand Sulfentrazone that was half the cost of dismiss. I split app with my round 1 and round 2 pre ems. I virtually had no sedges. Again almost yes a little but by far this was even better than Eschelon. The most sedges I’ve seen all year is right now which is incredible because we had an absolutely wet wet spring and thought for sure sedges would be problematic and they absolutely were not.
Caveat that I let all of my customers know was that the first fertilizer round (which included the second half of the split sulfentrazone app) would absolutely discolor the turf for about a week and believe me it did on a few lawns towards the end of the round because temps got up pretty quickly. On a few lawns looked liked i burned them but only for about a week. Plus sulfentrazone kills a number of other weeds as well. Just my real word example. And it worked extremely well.
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Get down 12oz/A of Sulfentrazone to end your problem.
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Gosh! I just checked local nutsedge--and it has almost disappeared. You have to search to find it, and it is real low--shorter than the grass. Season over for nutsedge.
And the soil temp is now about 70 degrees F for the last 5 days.
www.greencastonline.com
And the soil temp is now about 70 degrees F for the last 5 days.
Soil Temparature Maps | GreenCast | Syngenta
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