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What might be causing this browning of my lawn?

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dayin

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am trying to determine what might be causing these brown spots on my lawn and what I might be able to do to rectify the situation. I watered the front quite a bit in June to help seed grow and from then on the rain has not let up. It has been a very hot and humid summer in Michigan.

I've considered that this might be fungus but have been confused about what to buy to treat it if it's even that. I'm hoping by looking at the photos someone might be able to help me narrow down if that's what it is and if so, what type.
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#2 ·
Just a guess but it may be as as ascochyta tip blight. Can you take a picture closer to the grass? When I zoom in, it gets to blurry. Is the entire leaf affected? Tip blight usually affects the upper half or so of the leaf. Need better close up pictures
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply. See below for close-up photographs of front-yard grass, where I first noticed the brown spots appearing. In most cases it looks like the entire blade of grass is affected.

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#6 ·
I would probably tackle it both ways, a granular application of Heritage G, and then a topical spray of Propicanizole. You would probably need a 4gal backpack sprayer, calibrated correctly, to do the whole lawn, unless you feel like paying someone to do it. You must do all the grass, not just affected areas.

You should probably replace mower blades or sharpen them at least.

Probably can plan on doing something similar every year around this time.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I like the strategy, will get on it right away. Mower was brand new this season but it is an inexpensive Greenworks I was using to get a feel for electric. Still have the gas mower, have always replaced the blade each year. Do you think using the cheap electric could be a contributing factor?

Concerning the backpack sprayer I'd like to get something which is reasonably priced but can do the job. What would you recommend and/or what do you think of the DB Smith FieldKing Amazon? If you think non-electric will do the job then I'll save the money but with calibration being important I don't want to pick something up that will be prone to issues.

Other than that, will post back with before/after pictures. Thanks again!
 
#8 ·
Look at this one too
www.amazon.com

Amazon.com : VEVOR Battery Powered Backpack Sprayer, 0-90 PSI Adjustable Pressure, 4 Gallon Tank, Back Pack Sprayer with 8 Nozzles and 2 Wands, 12V 8Ah Battery, Wide Mouth Lid for Weeding, Spraying, Cleaning : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : VEVOR Battery Powered Backpack Sprayer, 0-90 PSI Adjustable Pressure, 4 Gallon Tank, Back Pack Sprayer with 8 Nozzles and 2 Wands, 12V 8Ah Battery, Wide Mouth Lid for Weeding, Spraying, Cleaning : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com
 
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#10 ·
I would just sharpen the blades, they should last you 20 years. I’ve had mine for 10 years and I used to mow an acre ( 42k ) and sharpen them once a month for years. Now I’m down to 8 k and sharpen two- 3 times a year. They aren’t even half way worn down. You can get a good bench grinder for 40$ bucks, takes 10 min to sharpen
 
#12 ·
You said it's been wet and warm and that appears to be a fescue. Based on on appearance and lesions, my initial thought is brown patch.

IMHO, It's important that you actually identify what the issue is before just throwing product at it. Get ahold of whatever land grant university is in MI or contact Purdue in West Lafayette.
 
#13 ·
Remember this, most diseases grow them selves out once the weather cools. Not always best to throw fungicides at it especially for your soil.

Next year maybe think of using a preventative of you refuse to change cultural practices or reseed new grass
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
andersman02 said:
Remember this, most diseases grow them selves out once the weather cools. Not always best to throw fungicides at it especially for your soil.

Next year maybe think of using a preventative of you refuse to change cultural practices or reseed new grass
Click to expand...
Thanks for the warning. I'd prefer to not be asking what to do if fungicide caused issues with my soil next year.

Perhaps this year I'll apply some on a section of the backyard and if there is no improvement next year I'll have a plan to address it. If I saw the issue on a good number of other lawns in the area I wouldn't be as concerned but that isn't the case. I pulled on some of the brown/yellow soil and it pulled out of the ground rather easily. When there were only a few brown spots I originally was planning to aerate and over-seed this fall but they've grown quite a bit in a short amount of time.

I did reach out to Michigan State University as well to see if they are able to provide any assistance.
 
#15 ·
My vote goes to dollarspot.
A fungicide like propiconazole is a good remedy.
Bayer Bio-Advanced lawn fungicide in the blue bottle is a good bet.
Home Depot has it. Blue bottle--or--self-spray hose-end bottle.
I used it on my lawn last week.
I will use it again this week.
I overseeded with inexpensive perennial rye 10 years ago. Probably disease susceptible.
 
#16 ·
I'm in SE Michigan. Been seeing dollar spot everywhere for about a month now. You probably just don't notice it in the other lawns in the area but I guarantee you its there. Even well fertilized lawns are getting dollar spot right now in SE Michigan. The photos certainly show dollar spot but it looks like there is some grey leaf spot mixed in as well. Hitting it with a good dose of fertilizer has a pretty good chance of growing it out within a couple weeks but its not a for sure thing. If we continue to have humid weather with warm humid nights the fertilizer may not be enough. You can apply propiconazole 14.3 at a rate of 1-2oz per 1000 in addition to the fertilizer. The propiconazole will knock out the dollar spot and grey leaf spot and the fertilizer will help the lawn to recover faster.

You could also just wait it out. Dollar spot rarely causes permanent damage to turf. As soon as the humidity goes away and we start getting cooler weather it will clear up on its own.
 
#18 ·
We have been seeing some gray leaf spot here in Delaware the last few years. But mostly it has been dollar spot, red thread or brown patch. As stated before, if you are not sure, take it to your local extension office and have it analyzed. As for the cutting, I just don’t think electric cuts cleanly through tall grass. Seems you need to cut every 2-3 days when it is growing so it doesn’t bog down. Dull blade will allow disease and insects an easy entry. Preventative fungicide treatments are an option, BUT does not guarantee disease free. You can still have some outbreaks. High humidity and nighttime temps in the upper 60’s consistently are the trigger for disease on cool season turf. Most of the time, disease will run its course when cooler weather returns as has been stated earlier. Just depends on how much you can tolerate
 
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