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andygold

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
What is the typical break-in procedure for a mower's engine, to gain the best gas mileage and longevity?

Also, how many hours of operation are typically necessary for an engine to be considered "broken in"? I want to switch over to synthetic oil, but not before the engine is fully broken in.
 
jeez, brand new engine? I'd run it 25-30 hours then go synth.
Synthetics are absolutely worth the extra money.
I do oil flush after the first day on new motors, just me, but cheap insurance it seems.
CWG
 
andygold said:
What is the typical break-in procedure for a mower's engine, to gain the best gas mileage and longevity?

Also, how many hours of operation are typically necessary for an engine to be considered "broken in"? I want to switch over to synthetic oil, but not before the engine is fully broken in.
Modern ring and honing techniques are such that a break in period is not neccesary. According to the local Yamaha folks you want to get the Synthetic's in BEFORE you have any cylinder wear. My new mowers recieved a immediate uprade to synthetics and experianced no ill effects. 4 cycle or two cycle.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Brandyanna said:
Modern ring and honing techniques are such that a break in period is not neccesary. According to the local Yamaha folks you want to get the Synthetic's in BEFORE you have any cylinder wear. My new mowers recieved a immediate uprade to synthetics and experianced no ill effects. 4 cycle or two cycle.
I don't think I can agree with that (no disrespect intended)....is there some place, or respected publication where you've seen that printed? Please direct me to it! :) A coworker switched to synthetic in his pickup before it was broken in... within first 1000 miles. Now with less than 10,000 miles, he is going through excessive amounts of oil, with extremely low mpg for his type vehicle. I would assume that the car manufacturers would have the same or better ring and honing technology than small engine manufacturers, so what gives? Does he have a problem, or did he switch too early? The dealer says it's the latter. They told him to drain the synthetic, and run dino oil for a good long while to attempt to break-in the engine.
 
I would recommend a break-in period. I would run the engine at about half ot the operating RPM's for a good half hour, then I would use it for a couple days, but don't run it at high RPM's for those few days, after two or three days I would change the oil, and then use it normally.
 
I considered synthetics, but I read in the owners manual (Kawasaki) that they advised strickly against them. It was enough to persuade me to keep using regular oil. 700 Hours on Good 'Ol Straight 30, and no oil related problems to date. Still going strong.

Kevin
 
Take the extra money the synthetics cost you and do more routine maintence on your equipment. If you consider more time in the engine for synthetic oil you are also allowing the things that contaminate your engine more time to be there also. I've been told to wear in oil rings, and it will burn oil if you don't. I don't know the magic number maybe someone else does. Later Guys
 
andygold said:
....is there some place, or respected publication where you've seen that printed? Please direct me to it! :) ...
Actually there is another very similar thread where a publication is quoted (though I do believe it is an oil company publication). Many new vehicles come with synthetics in the crankcase from the factory. I just don't see how you could switch to synthetics too soon, and no one has ever been able to explain why it would be a problem.
Here's a website you may want to explore for your decision: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/. I persoanlly think synthetics or not is a personal choice. I prefer synthetics myself, but I also know there are many good dino oils, that changed regularly would be more than sufficient.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Randy J said:
Actually there is another very similar thread where a publication is quoted (though I do believe it is an oil company publication). Many new vehicles come with synthetics in the crankcase from the factory. I just don't see how you could switch to synthetics too soon, and no one has ever been able to explain why it would be a problem.
Here's a website you may want to explore for your decision: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/. I persoanlly think synthetics or not is a personal choice. I prefer synthetics myself, but I also know there are many good dino oils, that changed regularly would be more than sufficient.
Well, this afternoon, I spoke to American Honda, and Mobil Oil Co. At Honda, it was a tech, and at Mobil I believe he was more of a salesperson than a tech. They both told me that from day one you can use synthetic oil in the engines, without the need for breaking in rings, cylinders, or valve seats. This is all news to me, but that's what I was told. The Mobil guy did tell me that new Corvettes, Aston Martins, AMG Mercedes, Mitsubishi, Vipers have Mobil 1 installed at the factory. He also said not to use it in Mazda rotary engines, and curiously, in 2004 VW diesels.
 
oil is oil, just use regular cheapo stuff and change it every 25 hours. you want to get the crap out of your motor so it doesnt hurt it. buy 10 dollar a quart oil and changing it regularly doesnt save you money. over time it will cost you more money bc they say it last longer, but you dont know that you got metal and other crap in the oil to ruin your motor. wal mart super tech is the way to go on oil.
 
i own a walker and just had a new kohler put in it. My mechanic said use it for about 10 hrs, and don't go past 3 quarter throttle, then change it after the 1st 10. I'm going synthetic from day 1. My 1st kohler crapped out at 1500 hrs, nvr again, I want 3000- 4000 out of this baby. Synthetic will get me there.


- Matt
 
andygold said:
What is the typical break-in procedure for a mower's engine, to gain the best gas mileage and longevity?

Also, how many hours of operation are typically necessary for an engine to be considered "broken in"? I want to switch over to synthetic oil, but not before the engine is fully broken in.
All that synthetic stuff is for lazy people. A bunch of BS if you change your oil when your supposed to ( OFTEN) the motor will last just as long PERIOD. :dizzy:
 
Sure is alot of post from people that dont know jack about oil!!!

If you say oil is all the same you dont know jack! If you say synthetic is for lazy people and not worth it you dont know jack!!

Do some research on oils and see what the difference is, then come back and post something worth reading!!
 
THats your opinon on oil I have been around engines since i was a toddler.
Don't tell me my post isn't worth reading. UNless you have a mercedes or some engine that strictly calls for synthetic it's pointless if you change yor oil like your supposed to. I'd bet good money that some good ol' Castrol GTX or Quakerstate is just as good a Synthetic When you change your oil regularly.

Synthetic IS BULL! SAWMAN :angry:
 
saw man said:
Sure is alot of post from people that dont know jack about oil!!!

If you say oil is all the same you dont know jack! If you say synthetic is for lazy people and not worth it you dont know jack!!

Do some research on oils and see what the difference is, then come back and post something worth reading!!
Crap About oil! The nevere of some people. You believe everything these huge oil companys tell you. Ive seen a 35 year old 327 chevy all original new been cracked open run like a champ. SO WHAT ARE YOU SAYING IT WOULD HAVE LAST 70 years if the guy had used a synthetic oils That a crap load and I guess you don't know it. Take THE SYNTHETIC AND SHOVE IT !
 
Jpocket said:
THats your opinon on oil I have been around engines since i was a toddler.
Don't tell me my post isn't worth reading. UNless you have a mercedes or some engine that strictly calls for synthetic it's pointless if you change yor oil like your supposed to. I'd bet good money that some good ol' Castrol GTX or Quakerstate is just as good a Synthetic When you change your oil regularly.

Synthetic IS BULL! SAWMAN :angry:
Like I said go do research on oil and come back with something smart. Until you do I will call you a moron! You group Castrol GTX a Qstate the same when you know nothing about them! What basestock does each use? what additive package is each one using and which one outperforms the other? On different engines you will also get better wear #'s from different oils.

Its a shame that you have been around engines since you were a toddler and still dont know jack! You must only be 5, sorry.
 
Jpocket said:
Crap About oil! The nevere of some people. You believe everything these huge oil companys tell you. Ive seen a 35 year old 327 chevy all original new been cracked open run like a champ. SO WHAT ARE YOU SAYING IT WOULD HAVE LAST 70 years if the guy had used a synthetic oils That a crap load and I guess you don't know it. Take THE SYNTHETIC AND SHOVE IT !
I never said it would run longer, Im saying Syn. is a better oil! If you deny it your stupid!

There is some very good dino oils out there such as Chevron Supreme. Great package and great UOA results. Alot better than the oils you posted! So kiss my a$$ and do some research before you come to me with this BS, these other guys may not know but I do!!
 
OK you use your synthetic and ill use conventional. Spend $6.00 per quart and ill spend $2.19 and get the smae end result. The F*ck with wear packages, I use what has worked for my father his father and his fathers father. Wear wear packages HA
 
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